Cell phone holder
#16
See the amazon link below.
LISEN for MagSafe Car Mount Charger, 15W Wireless Charger for iPhone Magnetic Phone Holder Mount, Universal Vent Car Charger Fits iPh... https://a.co/d/buy8bYT
Good luck. I have what i need, and done with this.
LISEN for MagSafe Car Mount Charger, 15W Wireless Charger for iPhone Magnetic Phone Holder Mount, Universal Vent Car Charger Fits iPh... https://a.co/d/buy8bYT
Good luck. I have what i need, and done with this.
#19
Hope this helps. Good luck!
Last edited by asong1; 01-13-24 at 07:39 AM.
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Enzo954 (01-13-24)
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FLBill (01-14-24)
#22
#23
Yup, Just to add - My phone is connected by BT to an OBD device that reads various engine parameters and I have a bank of six gauges that are displayed on the phone. I monitor those gauges and want it my line off sight. And I'll just add, while I am a fan of ProClip mounts, I am not a fan of their phone holder. I use a Kuda phone holder mounted to the ProClip.
#24
^^^^Here's my saga, I use a ProClip mount with a KUDA holder in the LC. I started using KUDA products years ago with an older truck and my last car, an ISF. At that time I could buy directly from KUDA in the US. I had both a Kuda mount and Kuda holder in my previous vehicles. They were expensive but they worked. When I got the LC, Kuda was no longer available in the US (they are a German company). So for the LC I bought the ProClip mount and found the Kuda holder on Amazon. When I bought my truck last year I tried to buy another Kuda mount on Amazon, but they were no longer available. So I bought the ProClip mount and ProClip holder. I like the mount in my truck but dislike the holder. Sine I became involved in this thread I, again, started looking for the Kuda holder, and after about an hour of looking, I Found it:
https://www.grooves.land/bkram-acces...92ea63c21fe85d
More links:
Here's the link to KUDA:
https://www.telefonkonsolen-shop.de/...RAM-65000.html
The one for Amazon:
And the one where I finally found the holder:
https://www.grooves.land/bkram-acces...92ea63c21fe85d
https://www.grooves.land/bkram-acces...92ea63c21fe85d
More links:
Here's the link to KUDA:
https://www.telefonkonsolen-shop.de/...RAM-65000.html
The one for Amazon:
And the one where I finally found the holder:
https://www.grooves.land/bkram-acces...92ea63c21fe85d
Last edited by flowrider; 01-15-24 at 08:12 PM.
#25
I am going to research more on potentially doing a USB connector relocation that is outside of the center console storage compartment. I have another blank thread started. I believe this will take a while.
This is a follow up to close the loop on my implementation of creating a phone mount solution that will work on the driver side of the vent. Please refer to the previous post here: Post #15. Today, I received the new 90 degree USB connector (10ft) as well as USB-A to Lightning connector (also 10ft) to route the cables for the cleanest possible look. Following up on the post #15 above, here are the cables I've used:
90 degree, flat / low profile USB C to USB C Cable:
10 ft. USB-A to lighting cable for 'Wired' Apple Carplay or Android Auto
Adsive mounted wire management clips:
1. I snaked the USB-C cable from under the steering column, and have it come out right above the brake pedal. The space in there is very tight. Used a flash light to see the best path, taped the USB C cable onto a long stick. Once the stick hit the wall, detached the cable and removed the stick.
2 I then taped the USB-A Lightning cable onto the USB C cable which is already snaked through, and pulled the lightning cable to the same location:
3. I then connected the 99 degree USB C cable to the vent-mounted wireless charger. very clean!
4. Use the wire management clips to route the wires cleanly (USB C Cable only at this stage). **** Disclaimer: No beautiful leather was ruined while filing this. All all cable manager clips were attached to non-leather / soft touch plastic materials ****
5. Attached the USB A Lightning cable onto the wire management clip and taped it like this. This prevents the lightning cable from falling into the firewall area, and will always stay here. If I decide to use the wired carplay, I simply pull this out (plenty of slack was left behind the firewall) and when wireless connection is good enough, then just push the cable back to the wire management clip. out of sight and instantly accessible.
6. Now for the most difficult / painful part. Crawl under the steering wheel / pedal area and use the clips to cleanly route the cables (both USB C & Lightning Cable) across, then down, then back then down again, and under the weather tech floor mat, and then finally up towards the center console connection area.
**** Notice how the cables are are temporarily taped onto the carpet to make sure it will not interfere with the gas pedal. The tape is strong against the carpet, and I think it will be ok. But if it ever comes loose, I'll be bringing out the staple gun and put an end to it without damaging the wires. It should staple with the wires in place through the carpet easily. After these photos were taken, I've reinforced the tape all around the gas pedal. No interference. As I mentioned, I may use a combination of rubber cable hider & light duty staple gun for additional safety. Don't want those wires to ever come loose. Should be fine and serve me well until I take the next steps (see below). Either route the wire behind the center console panel (solves the gas pedal area problem), or relocate them permenantly.
All done. Very clean, and very accessible with wired or wireless options, and always keep the phone charged. For me, I don't want to put anything in the center shift **** area, not even a cup in that area. The area and design so beatiful, and I want to leave it exactly the way it is. Beautiful flow of curves. Just love that look.
Next phase:
This was just a proof of concept to share what is possible should you decide to go this route. One thing that still bothers me is that there is no other way to route the wire into the center console without the wires sticking out as you see above. Otherwise it's perfect. My seat gap filler + cup holder combo next to my seat cover the whole thing up. But then at the end, the wire sticks it's ugly head right back out. Any other way, and with 2 wires, snaking into the console, unless you leave it like this, the center console lid's sliding mechanism is disrupted. So what to do...
I was looking at Beat-Sonic's LC wireless carplay module install. And due to the complexity of removing the radio head unit, they have very detailed step by step instruction as to how to remove the center console USB connection tray + side panels for full access. My next project would be to follow their guideline, and re-route the wires behind the center side panel. And once it reaches the usb connector tray area, drill a small hole on the side of the plastic tray, bring the wires in, then patch it up with a rubber grommet. This would be the perfect soluton for me.
But.., I'm still debating this. Becase once I decide to relocate the USB connectors and place them beneath the steering column (see he photos above where the wires area attached) & also add a 12v socket adaptor via the fuse box accessory port, then there is no need to drill any holes. Once the USB connectors are relocated, my plan is to install dual USB-C or something else in it's place.
I hope this helps for those seeking the vent mount option rather than grab handle mounted phone holder. At the very least, give you some additional ideas for your own solution for your individual needs.
This is a follow up to close the loop on my implementation of creating a phone mount solution that will work on the driver side of the vent. Please refer to the previous post here: Post #15. Today, I received the new 90 degree USB connector (10ft) as well as USB-A to Lightning connector (also 10ft) to route the cables for the cleanest possible look. Following up on the post #15 above, here are the cables I've used:
90 degree, flat / low profile USB C to USB C Cable:
10 ft. USB-A to lighting cable for 'Wired' Apple Carplay or Android Auto
Adsive mounted wire management clips:
1. I snaked the USB-C cable from under the steering column, and have it come out right above the brake pedal. The space in there is very tight. Used a flash light to see the best path, taped the USB C cable onto a long stick. Once the stick hit the wall, detached the cable and removed the stick.
2 I then taped the USB-A Lightning cable onto the USB C cable which is already snaked through, and pulled the lightning cable to the same location:
3. I then connected the 99 degree USB C cable to the vent-mounted wireless charger. very clean!
4. Use the wire management clips to route the wires cleanly (USB C Cable only at this stage). **** Disclaimer: No beautiful leather was ruined while filing this. All all cable manager clips were attached to non-leather / soft touch plastic materials ****
5. Attached the USB A Lightning cable onto the wire management clip and taped it like this. This prevents the lightning cable from falling into the firewall area, and will always stay here. If I decide to use the wired carplay, I simply pull this out (plenty of slack was left behind the firewall) and when wireless connection is good enough, then just push the cable back to the wire management clip. out of sight and instantly accessible.
6. Now for the most difficult / painful part. Crawl under the steering wheel / pedal area and use the clips to cleanly route the cables (both USB C & Lightning Cable) across, then down, then back then down again, and under the weather tech floor mat, and then finally up towards the center console connection area.
**** Notice how the cables are are temporarily taped onto the carpet to make sure it will not interfere with the gas pedal. The tape is strong against the carpet, and I think it will be ok. But if it ever comes loose, I'll be bringing out the staple gun and put an end to it without damaging the wires. It should staple with the wires in place through the carpet easily. After these photos were taken, I've reinforced the tape all around the gas pedal. No interference. As I mentioned, I may use a combination of rubber cable hider & light duty staple gun for additional safety. Don't want those wires to ever come loose. Should be fine and serve me well until I take the next steps (see below). Either route the wire behind the center console panel (solves the gas pedal area problem), or relocate them permenantly.
All done. Very clean, and very accessible with wired or wireless options, and always keep the phone charged. For me, I don't want to put anything in the center shift **** area, not even a cup in that area. The area and design so beatiful, and I want to leave it exactly the way it is. Beautiful flow of curves. Just love that look.
Next phase:
This was just a proof of concept to share what is possible should you decide to go this route. One thing that still bothers me is that there is no other way to route the wire into the center console without the wires sticking out as you see above. Otherwise it's perfect. My seat gap filler + cup holder combo next to my seat cover the whole thing up. But then at the end, the wire sticks it's ugly head right back out. Any other way, and with 2 wires, snaking into the console, unless you leave it like this, the center console lid's sliding mechanism is disrupted. So what to do...
I was looking at Beat-Sonic's LC wireless carplay module install. And due to the complexity of removing the radio head unit, they have very detailed step by step instruction as to how to remove the center console USB connection tray + side panels for full access. My next project would be to follow their guideline, and re-route the wires behind the center side panel. And once it reaches the usb connector tray area, drill a small hole on the side of the plastic tray, bring the wires in, then patch it up with a rubber grommet. This would be the perfect soluton for me.
But.., I'm still debating this. Becase once I decide to relocate the USB connectors and place them beneath the steering column (see he photos above where the wires area attached) & also add a 12v socket adaptor via the fuse box accessory port, then there is no need to drill any holes. Once the USB connectors are relocated, my plan is to install dual USB-C or something else in it's place.
I hope this helps for those seeking the vent mount option rather than grab handle mounted phone holder. At the very least, give you some additional ideas for your own solution for your individual needs.
Last edited by asong1; 01-17-24 at 06:27 PM.
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