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Good thing you did both harnesses for each valve as they are managed by separate modules. One is according to drive-mode setting and the other activates the valve according to rpm/throttle position/speed. Enjoy!
Do you happen to know which connector is controlled by which function? I have a larger connector with red & black wires, and a smaller connector with yellow & green wires (on each valve assembly). I removed mine 2 years ago, but ended up re-connecting them. I'm thinking now - if I just remove the rpm/throttle position/speed connectors, then Sport + mode should always be full open (which is what I want), and the other drive modes should be quieter. This way, valve position for all drive modes should not be affected by the vehicle dynamics, right? Whatdayathink?
BTW - I used flexible plastic caps to protect my connectors, which worked pretty well. I happened to have a collection of those in assorted sizes.
Do you happen to know which connector is controlled by which function? I have a larger connector with red & black wires, and a smaller connector with yellow & green wires (on each valve assembly). I removed mine 2 years ago, but ended up re-connecting them. I'm thinking now - if I just remove the rpm/throttle position/speed connectors, then Sport + mode should always be full open (which is what I want), and the other drive modes should be quieter. This way, valve position for all drive modes should not be affected by the vehicle dynamics, right? Whatdayathink?
BTW - I used flexible plastic caps to protect my connectors, which worked pretty well. I happened to have a collection of those in assorted sizes.
After thinking this through a little more thoroughly, I think disabling the vehicle dynamics connector only could lead to undesirable backflow situations in the tamer drive modes. Although Sport+ would be fine as the flaps would remain always open, other drive modes would still need to open during acceleration. I think it's best to either leave both connected or remove both.
Do you happen to know which connector is controlled by which function? I have a larger connector with red & black wires, and a smaller connector with yellow & green wires (on each valve assembly). I removed mine 2 years ago, but ended up re-connecting them. I'm thinking now - if I just remove the rpm/throttle position/speed connectors, then Sport + mode should always be full open (which is what I want), and the other drive modes should be quieter. This way, valve position for all drive modes should not be affected by the vehicle dynamics, right? Whatdayathink?
From what I can see on my wiring diagrams, the signals leading to the valves go through a maze of modules and relays that are too complex to tell which one does what. Can you share a link to your plastic connector caps?
From what I can see on my wiring diagrams, the signals leading to the valves go through a maze of modules and relays that are too complex to tell which one does what. Can you share a link to your plastic connector caps?
Thanks - I appreciate the effort. As you likely saw from my follow-up post, it doesn't make much sense after thinking it through. It's an easy-enough thing to figure out by just removing one connector and changing the drive modes.
The caps I used are just flexible pipe caps. I got a sample assortment from a local company years ago. They come in handy for misc. nonsense around the house. Mine never fell off, but one could always secure with electric tape. They're basically these (in roughly 1/2"-3/4" diameters):
A couple people messaged me about the flexible cap sizes. I just dug them out and installed them again for pics. They are about 3/4" and 1" ID. Keep in mind - these could collect water and defeat the purpose (I don't drive my car in the rain). If you go with something like this, strap them so they drain downward, and maybe tape them...
Does anyone have the wiring diagram for these plugs? I'm thinking of toggling the power to them so I can control them when I like.
Originally Posted by uchujin
A couple people messaged me about the flexible cap sizes. I just dug them out and installed them again for pics. They are about 3/4" and 1" ID. Keep in mind - these could collect water and defeat the purpose (I don't drive my car in the rain). If you go with something like this, strap them so they drain downward, and maybe tape them...
Does anyone have the wiring diagram for these plugs? I'm thinking of toggling the power to them so I can control them when I like.
It's available for purchase online so I bought mine for the whole car. You can forget about a toggle switch as the valves are controlled by half a dozen or so signals from two modules. It's not possible to detemine which one does what unless one is a trained factory technician with guidelines from Lexus.
^ It is possible, but one would have to intercept the control wires at or near each valve connector. That's a lot of wires to adapt to a switch (4 minimum). Each connector has at least one powered wire (maybe two). One could probably just switch-enable the ground wire at each connector(?). Complicated enough that I doubt it's worth all the effort. Trying to do it elsewhere 'upstream' would likely mess with control modules and trigger error codes. As stated earlier, I think it's best to either (A) leave all 4 connectors connected, or (B) disconnect all 4 connectors. Disconnecting them and leaving the valves always open really isn't obnoxiously loud to me. It's a simple enough thing to test for yourself. All 4 connectors can literally be disconnected in under a minute. It's tight getting under there without lifting the car though. I've done it easily with my car parked on Flatstoppers - which lifts the car less than 2 inches.
If someone has the "pin out" at the connector perhaps I could toggle the power to the connector with a simple SPDT toggle switch to open the circuit to it. There is a possibility that someone here besides myself would like that challenge or option..
It appears there a 4 wires from the pictures (I don't have access to a lift to confirm,) but if that's the case, 1 power, 1 ground and two for a sensor or position sensor...A toggle would give an option. Somewhat like the radio, on or off.
Originally Posted by uchujin
^ It is possible, but one would have to intercept the control wires at or near each valve connector. That's a lot of wires to adapt to a switch (4 minimum). Each connector has at least one powered wire (maybe two). One could probably just switch-enable the ground wire at each connector(?). Complicated enough that I doubt it's worth all the effort. Trying to do it elsewhere 'upstream' would likely mess with control modules and trigger error codes. As stated earlier, I think it's best to either (A) leave all 4 connectors connected, or (B) disconnect all 4 connectors. Disconnecting them and leaving the valves always open really isn't obnoxiously loud to me. It's a simple enough thing to test for yourself. All 4 connectors can literally be disconnected in under a minute. It's tight getting under there without lifting the car though. I've done it easily with my car parked on Flatstoppers - which lifts the car less than 2 inches.
Originally Posted by flowrider
^^^^I think asinow means an electric switch that turns the power on and off to the modules so they will always remain open and wont close
From the pics I posted, it looks like the larger connector has 3 wires and the smaller one has 2 wires. I would guess 2 wires on the larger connector carry power to the valve motor (maybe one opens the valves and one closes them?), and the other is a shared ground. The smaller connector likely has one power and one ground. A multi-meter will confirm this. So one should be able to just cut the 4 ground wires - to break all 4 harness circuits. The 4 ground wires on the connector side can be spliced together and connected to one side of a switch. The 4 ground wires on the other side can be spliced together and connected to the other side of the switch. Done, right? Not so much...
The problem is - the system needs to be energized to open/close the valves. if the switch is open and you close it while the engine is running... The valves won't necessarily move until (A) the drive mode is changed, or (B) one of the vehicle dynamics trigger valve movement. Not such a big deal. However, if you open the circuit while the engine is running, the valves won't automatically fully open like they would when one turns the engine off. They will stay in the exact position they were in when you opened the switch. They need power to open.
Thanks SuperGT for the info on the exhaust flaps !
Logically the black and red SHOULD BE for power. however only one wire would be needed for signal.
If i was going to design the flaps I would supply power and have separate signal lines to trigger open/close.
Those trigger lines would be controlled by the ECU based upon predetermined/configured settings.
I'm not going to test my theory or pay for a schematic DL. the returns just arent there. I'm completely
happy with the info provided by SuperGT to disconnect the flaps.
I know there was confusion when i posted a pic of another brand of flap control. please note their
method to open and close was a logic signal not just power. the effort required to simulate wasnt
worth the gains. ultimately all of us on the forums who had the flaps kept them open. and yes it
was louder than the LC.
i couldnt see spending $5000 on an exhaust with minimal gains just for sound. he basically saved me 5K.
01-03-20, 02:30 PM
