installing an aftermarket sub in an SC400 :HERES HOW:
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I actually installed a 12 Alumapro sub in a box that I built. I took out the factory sub so more sound would flow to the cabin. But the process is the same if you install a free air sub in the factory location.
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It may or may not, it really depends on the sub, and if you're going for sound quality or spl. What he was saying was that he has his sub(s) installed in the trunk and took the OEM one out so that more of the air/sound moved/created by the aftermarket sub will get to the cabin. It acts like a big port from the trunk. My subs are spl-type so I got a lot lower tone and louder sound once I took out the factory sub.
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this is just what i have heard about free- air subs so this could be way wrong.. they tend to not be as loud and don't hit the low notes like a enclosed sub would. You also have to be careful about how much power you send to them..
In general, the more heavy duty the sub is and the more power you are sending it, it will be Louder than say a sub rated at 300 watts rms. This isn't always true due to the fact that some subs i.e The Shocker SS sub is very eficient and can get way loud with little power.
However, if you look at most SPL competitions, they use beast subs like DD 9500 series, Resonant Engineering Hc and XXX series, Rockford's Power HX2's and so on.
So what Im saying is this, if you are not a huge bass freak, then a free-air sub would fit your needs just fine. Just remember to reinforce the back deck a litlle. But if you want more output and an overall better sound put them in the trunk.. Check Out Elemental Designs at edesignaudio.com <-------awesome subs, not mainstream, great prices etc etc etc... no I don't work for them!
In general, the more heavy duty the sub is and the more power you are sending it, it will be Louder than say a sub rated at 300 watts rms. This isn't always true due to the fact that some subs i.e The Shocker SS sub is very eficient and can get way loud with little power.
However, if you look at most SPL competitions, they use beast subs like DD 9500 series, Resonant Engineering Hc and XXX series, Rockford's Power HX2's and so on.
So what Im saying is this, if you are not a huge bass freak, then a free-air sub would fit your needs just fine. Just remember to reinforce the back deck a litlle. But if you want more output and an overall better sound put them in the trunk.. Check Out Elemental Designs at edesignaudio.com <-------awesome subs, not mainstream, great prices etc etc etc... no I don't work for them!
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Do you have to use the LLC for an aftermarket amp?
I didn't use a LLC. I connected my aftermarket amp signal directly to the low level signal that going into the stock amp and the remote turn on to the remote of the stock amp and you can keep the stock Pioneer sub if you like (I did). I got the 93 SC3 and i have no cell phone either. My amp turn on and off along with the Head Unit.
I didn't use a LLC. I connected my aftermarket amp signal directly to the low level signal that going into the stock amp and the remote turn on to the remote of the stock amp and you can keep the stock Pioneer sub if you like (I did). I got the 93 SC3 and i have no cell phone either. My amp turn on and off along with the Head Unit.
Last edited by bigmonkey70; 02-10-04 at 03:49 PM.
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True that you say if it works it works.... but it could save you a few bucks and one less component that can produce noise. The low level input wire, I am talking about, is the one already wired from the stock head unit and feed the signal to the stock amp (the input side of the stock amp). Just tap to that wires and run directly to your amp....
Last edited by bigmonkey70; 02-10-04 at 08:22 PM.
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If you go the LLC, you will still retain use of the bass **** on the head unit. However, the control **** is not isolated to the subwoofer itself. When you turn the bass **** up, all speakers see a rise in bass level. YOu will find the remote turn on wire at the factory amp. It is blue with a white stripe.