Speaker Install - "How-To" with TONS of pics!! SC3/400
#121
I just did mine today for my sc400
After driving this POS for almost 4 years without a radio. I Took the Sunday off from work just to have it installed; with the help of my cousin,who installs stereos and alarms for a living.
This is my setup. took us about 8 hours from start to finish.
We had to modify/cut the holes in the back to fit the 6.5 speakers
Got rid of the factory Sub also. I threw away all the speakers except the tweeters.
We took the front part that was holding the front speakers in place & We got rid of that too. We cut /modify the rear part for the 6.5 speaker to fit. Used some screws to tighten it up. ( had to move/relocate the (cable) connectors.
* Unit/Radio: Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X492
* Amp = Rockford Fosgate 4Channel P400-2
* 2 Front and 2Rear Speakers Rockford Fosgate Power T162C
Pair of 6-1/2" Power Series 2-way Speakers.
* Subwoofer Rockford Fosgate Power Series T112D4 12" Dual voicecoil 4 ohm Subwoofer
* Subwoofer Speaker Box BASS SLANTFRONT 12" CAR AUDIO
L=22" BOTTOM DEPTH 15" TOP DEPTH 10.5"
H=13" (1.65 CUBIC)
* 8 gauge wires for the amp....
...
About $800 including my cousin's labor. Had to give him something ya know.
I love it. The sound is AMAZING.
NEXT are the Wheels/Tires/shocks/lowering springs SETUP
This is my setup. took us about 8 hours from start to finish.
We had to modify/cut the holes in the back to fit the 6.5 speakers
Got rid of the factory Sub also. I threw away all the speakers except the tweeters.
We took the front part that was holding the front speakers in place & We got rid of that too. We cut /modify the rear part for the 6.5 speaker to fit. Used some screws to tighten it up. ( had to move/relocate the (cable) connectors.
* Unit/Radio: Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X492
* Amp = Rockford Fosgate 4Channel P400-2
* 2 Front and 2Rear Speakers Rockford Fosgate Power T162C
Pair of 6-1/2" Power Series 2-way Speakers.
* Subwoofer Rockford Fosgate Power Series T112D4 12" Dual voicecoil 4 ohm Subwoofer
* Subwoofer Speaker Box BASS SLANTFRONT 12" CAR AUDIO
L=22" BOTTOM DEPTH 15" TOP DEPTH 10.5"
H=13" (1.65 CUBIC)
* 8 gauge wires for the amp....
...
About $800 including my cousin's labor. Had to give him something ya know.
I love it. The sound is AMAZING.
NEXT are the Wheels/Tires/shocks/lowering springs SETUP
#122
You were not kidding about the grab handle screws being tight. Mine would not move for anything on the left side. Even an impact driver would not move them. I finally went to Harbor Freight and purchased a set of LEFT HAND drill bits, and using the 3/16 bit drilled the heads of the two screws. As soon as I started to cut the head off of the threads the screw released and unwound with the drill bit. The counter guy at the fastener store laughed when I told him I wanted a new set of screws with phillips heads on them
#123
Hi, sorry to bump such an old thread but this is the closest thing I could find relating to my simple question. I hope someone can help!
I have a 92' SC400 with Nakamichi stereo, but a few years ago my cousin and I switched out all the stock speakers/tweeters and the sub while keeping the rest stock. I wanted a stock look and I liked the stock HU equalizer controls.
Now, I'm looking for more bass out of the aftermarket sub (in the stock location) and so I want to put in an aftermarket amp to power the sub. How do I do this? Where should the signal into the new amp come from? Can I just run the signal wires from the output of the stock amp into the input of the aftermarket amp? This sounds weird, its my first encounter with a complicated system.. I've only dealt with simple straightforward systems. Thanks for helping!
I have a 92' SC400 with Nakamichi stereo, but a few years ago my cousin and I switched out all the stock speakers/tweeters and the sub while keeping the rest stock. I wanted a stock look and I liked the stock HU equalizer controls.
Now, I'm looking for more bass out of the aftermarket sub (in the stock location) and so I want to put in an aftermarket amp to power the sub. How do I do this? Where should the signal into the new amp come from? Can I just run the signal wires from the output of the stock amp into the input of the aftermarket amp? This sounds weird, its my first encounter with a complicated system.. I've only dealt with simple straightforward systems. Thanks for helping!
#126
Is there room in the door panels to mount the Crossover Boxes that are very common in today component speakers? Or do they need to be mounted in the dash, under the seat, or in the trunk? All assistance will be appreciated. Thanks.
#127
There's definitely room, but you'll have to find/make it. I put mine in the trunk because most manufacturers recommend that you don't put them in the doors (since they can get wet). Up to you though!
#128
great write up. one comment...on my 99 i couldn't reuse the ballast when going to a 5.25 speaker because even though it looks just like yours, when you take it apart, it's backward. All of the screws that hold the baffle on is under the enclosure unlike yours where it is ontop. Because of this i had to make my own bracket using ABS plastic.
FYI- abs plastic is super easy to work with. I simply put masking tape on it. Then traced the enclosure over it. Then use a razor blade to outline the shape then simply bend the abs the opposite direction and watch it snap. To cut the circle, i did the same thing but i used a drill bit to cut a hole in the center. then i used a jig saw to cut out slices like a pie. Then took a pair of pliers and slowly bent the slices down and watched the abs snap off nice and clean. For the two lower mounting points, simply take some leftover ABS and shim the hole. Mine fits nicely and i hoping will sound as good as my old nakamachi setup.
Thanks,
Sid
FYI- abs plastic is super easy to work with. I simply put masking tape on it. Then traced the enclosure over it. Then use a razor blade to outline the shape then simply bend the abs the opposite direction and watch it snap. To cut the circle, i did the same thing but i used a drill bit to cut a hole in the center. then i used a jig saw to cut out slices like a pie. Then took a pair of pliers and slowly bent the slices down and watched the abs snap off nice and clean. For the two lower mounting points, simply take some leftover ABS and shim the hole. Mine fits nicely and i hoping will sound as good as my old nakamachi setup.
Thanks,
Sid
#129
with my abs brackets, i actually glued the crossover to the top of the bracket. you'll have so much room since the stock enclosure is huge.
#130
After driving this POS for almost 4 years without a radio. I Took the Sunday off from work just to have it installed; with the help of my cousin,who installs stereos and alarms for a living.
This is my setup. took us about 8 hours from start to finish.
We had to modify/cut the holes in the back to fit the 6.5 speakers
Got rid of the factory Sub also. I threw away all the speakers except the tweeters.
We took the front part that was holding the front speakers in place & We got rid of that too. We cut /modify the rear part for the 6.5 speaker to fit. Used some screws to tighten it up. ( had to move/relocate the (cable) connectors.
* Unit/Radio: Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X492
* Amp = Rockford Fosgate 4Channel P400-2
* 2 Front and 2Rear Speakers Rockford Fosgate Power T162C
Pair of 6-1/2" Power Series 2-way Speakers.
* Subwoofer Rockford Fosgate Power Series T112D4 12" Dual voicecoil 4 ohm Subwoofer
* Subwoofer Speaker Box BASS SLANTFRONT 12" CAR AUDIO
L=22" BOTTOM DEPTH 15" TOP DEPTH 10.5"
H=13" (1.65 CUBIC)
* 8 gauge wires for the amp....
...
About $800 including my cousin's labor. Had to give him something ya know.
I love it. The sound is AMAZING.
NEXT are the Wheels/Tires/shocks/lowering springs SETUP
This is my setup. took us about 8 hours from start to finish.
We had to modify/cut the holes in the back to fit the 6.5 speakers
Got rid of the factory Sub also. I threw away all the speakers except the tweeters.
We took the front part that was holding the front speakers in place & We got rid of that too. We cut /modify the rear part for the 6.5 speaker to fit. Used some screws to tighten it up. ( had to move/relocate the (cable) connectors.
* Unit/Radio: Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X492
* Amp = Rockford Fosgate 4Channel P400-2
* 2 Front and 2Rear Speakers Rockford Fosgate Power T162C
Pair of 6-1/2" Power Series 2-way Speakers.
* Subwoofer Rockford Fosgate Power Series T112D4 12" Dual voicecoil 4 ohm Subwoofer
* Subwoofer Speaker Box BASS SLANTFRONT 12" CAR AUDIO
L=22" BOTTOM DEPTH 15" TOP DEPTH 10.5"
H=13" (1.65 CUBIC)
* 8 gauge wires for the amp....
...
About $800 including my cousin's labor. Had to give him something ya know.
I love it. The sound is AMAZING.
NEXT are the Wheels/Tires/shocks/lowering springs SETUP
#132
I have an SWR-1243D Sub I was considering using to replace the stock sub I would greatly appreciate any help or advice I've searched the forum perhaps not good enough hopefully someone can get back to me and help me or or send me on the right track.
Thanks
Thanks
#133
Figured I'd add this as I didn't see it mentioned anywhere in this thread, but if anyone is having trouble pulling the rear deck out it's because the clips to pop it out are inside the trunk. Remove the rear carpeted wall in the trunk. To do so push up and pull out by each clip starting from one corner moving to the next(there are 6 or so clips).
Now the gas tank should be fully exposed. The best way to see the rear deck clips is to just fall right into the trunk so your on your back looking up at the sky/inner trunk frame. If you look in the small holes you will see white push clips that belong to the rear deck. They are pretty easy to spot. There are 6 in total. Easiest way to get them I found was just pushing in and out with a big flat head screwdriver. While your down there you might want to look for the Blue Push Pins, those are your speaker connector wires. If you are doing new speakers, new mounts or whatever it would be wise to push these up and out now with either your fingers or needle nose pliers.
Last time I pulled my rear deck out and it broke into pieces, this time I was a little more careful and it came out in perfect condition.
Now the gas tank should be fully exposed. The best way to see the rear deck clips is to just fall right into the trunk so your on your back looking up at the sky/inner trunk frame. If you look in the small holes you will see white push clips that belong to the rear deck. They are pretty easy to spot. There are 6 in total. Easiest way to get them I found was just pushing in and out with a big flat head screwdriver. While your down there you might want to look for the Blue Push Pins, those are your speaker connector wires. If you are doing new speakers, new mounts or whatever it would be wise to push these up and out now with either your fingers or needle nose pliers.
Last time I pulled my rear deck out and it broke into pieces, this time I was a little more careful and it came out in perfect condition.
#134
This thread will be quite handy for: a) disassembling the doors to fix the typical driver's side problems and to see if my alarm sensor is disconnected as expected, and b) provide a template for undoing the garbage aftermarket stereo system the previous owner put in and then removed most of.
Regarding crossovers:
When I put component speakers in my Miata, I followed suggestions to place them in upside down ziploc bags for their final mounting position. There really aren't many good places to put them in such a small car, and nothing is more of a water magnet than a convertible! After ten years, there haven't been any issues. It's also a fair bit less wiring to run that way.
Right now I have an impossible to use JVC head unit, clipped wiring at the stock Pioneer amp location in the trunk, removed CD changer, aftermarket wiring running to the left side of the trunk, and a tiny bit of volume to the passenger door speaker and nothing to the others. Once I take care of some more important to-do items, I'll start digging into the speaker locations and see what's even there after the previous owner's work.
Regarding crossovers:
Right now I have an impossible to use JVC head unit, clipped wiring at the stock Pioneer amp location in the trunk, removed CD changer, aftermarket wiring running to the left side of the trunk, and a tiny bit of volume to the passenger door speaker and nothing to the others. Once I take care of some more important to-do items, I'll start digging into the speaker locations and see what's even there after the previous owner's work.