Electircal problem has returned!!
#1
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Duuuuuuuudes!!!! My electrical problem has returned after a 2-3 week hiatus! Okay, let me explain the problem again: When I'm driving and the radio is on, if I try to use a blinker (doesn't matter which one) it causes my cluster lights to dim or shut off for a second and then they come back on. If I press on my brake pedal it also causes my cluster lights to dim. The blinker is what seems to activate the problem most often. I took the car to an auto-electric shop ($50 an hour to troubleshoot) and they couldn't find a problem. I took it to Sears and had the entire chargine system checked (battery, starter, alternator) and they couldn't find a problem. It wasn't that bad when it was happening before, but now the car has shut off on me twice during the past week and yesterday when I left work it wouldn't start until the third try. There was no sound of the engine trying to start, no noise at all, just the reminder tone of my key being in the ignition and my cluster lights coming on. I had the body grounds checked and supposedly those are fine as well, but I doubt the mechanic was able to properly locate them all. What the heck could this be? I'm stumped...and starting to get angry! Helllllp : )
#2
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Dude your battery is defenitely screwed I would say, my radio had shut off totally one time and my lights would dim with ttoo much stuff going on. I had my battery checked and alternator checked they both checked out fine. Car wouldn't start one day and would the next. I replaced my battery as the first step in trying to fix it and everything came back on line fine. It is a minimal cost manjust get a new battery, if that doesn't help at least you have a new battery and it has only cost you like $80
#3
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I had the battery checked too and supposedly it's fine, it isn't that old so I think the problem is probably the grounds somewhere. I'mma tackle that problem this weekend, it's been raining here lately so I can't deal with it now, unless the problem gets to a point where I HAVE to deal with it immediately (Know what I mean?) but I pray I can make it to the weekend...
#6
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I just don't wanna drop the $100 for a battery unless I'm sure that's the problem. I mean it's only a $100 but still, if I spend it I want it to be necessary. Especially since I was already planning on buying the Daizen bushing set from Sewell Lexus and that's $100. I think I'll just buy one of those grounding kits and throw that on there and see what happens, if that doesn't work I'll bite the bullet and get the $110 battery from Sears. As for the dated receipt i don't have it and have no idea how old the battery is. I've had the car for about 2 years and it was in there when I purchased the car. I will buy a new battery later this year, btu I want to fix the most necessary problems first just in case I run into financial issues, y'all know how that is, when you least expect it...someone sticks their hands in your pocket...
#7
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Oh yeah, HotBoy, if you're anywhere near Orange County I know a really good guy who does door dings, he's mobile and charges like $60 per panel, I haven't found anyone else who can even come close to that price let alone someone willing to come out to me and work around my hectic schedule. If you want shoot me an email and I'll give you his hook-up. I've had him take numerous dings out of my Nissan 240 and most recently I found a really good parking spot at this golf course (too good to be true) came back from hitting a few ***** and noticed a large ding in my passenger side fender of my SC (daaaaaaamn!), right where it meets the hood. Nasty little sucker but he took care of it for me and it looks great. Let me know as I hate door dings too and soon I'll need him to touch up my car as I haven't been parking on the far edge of the lot lately...
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#10
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That's my point, priorities. I need new tires ($250 for 2 ) and a new power steering pump ($140) first, those are the immediate priorities. I don't want to spend $100 on a battery unless I know it's necessary. Otherwise I might as well apply the theory "just change it" to everything on the car that I'm dissatisfied with. Funny thing about me is if I spend the $100 and it's not necessary next week another problem will arise and guess how much it'll cost to fix? That's right...a hundred dollars, all because I spent $100 the previous week on something that I didn't need, that's how my luck's been lately. In the last 6 months I've replaced the radiator, alternator, 2 tires, major tune-up, timing belt, brakes, and the trunk struts replaced. I've hunted all over the net for the best prices on parts and me and my buddy usually do the work ourslves. The next project is the front control arm upgrade with Daizen bushings. Like I said, I'mma try the grounding thing first (replacing the connector at the end of the negative battery cable and then cleaning and tightening the end that goes to the engine block) and see what happens. In any event the battery will be replaced within the next few months, but right now, unless I'm sure it's the culprit, it's not a priority compared to the rest of the stuff I need to do. Gotta stop spending all my money on chicks, booze, and gambling...but then what would be the point of living?
#11
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I had the same problem, except my radio would die instead of the car. The brakes were more of a problem than the turn signal. It still happens a little bit (radio doesn't die, but the fan slow down), but the only thing I did was take a wire brush and clean the battery terminal and the wire clamps. Done. My battery sticker has punch holes saying it was installed 3-4 years ago.
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Last edited by Buttercup; 02-24-04 at 04:25 PM.
#12
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Mike, I had a similar problem several years ago on my ’94 SC400 and I FINALLY (using a digital volt meter) traced it to the point where the negative battery cable bolted to the body just behind/below the battery. That is the ground point for the body ground. Instead of changing the cable, I just went to Discount Auto Parts and bought a small battery cable with lugs on each end and connected one end to the battery ground terminal and the other end to the point mentioned above (I left the old battery cable in place). I had already changed the terminals (which is still a good idea, as the original terminals are pretty lightweight), but that wasn’t the problem in my case. The car has been perfect ever since. Hope this helps …
--- George
--- George
#13
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Mikeloc24 how much you paying 4 chicks? Also you might consider buying a second car to drive, so you can repair all the problems with your car. These aren't cheap to repair, but once you get rid of the bugs it will run fine. If you have high mileage expect some problems, just repair one at a time if money is an issue.
#15
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Gentlemen, thanks for the info. It really helps. George, I appreciate the detail, part of what I needed to know was where all the ground points were, most importantly where the ground for the negative battery cable was located as that seems to be the common denominator on SC's that have "ghosts" in the electrical system. I plan to go to Sears this evening and buy a new battery, I think it's time anyway as I have no idea how old my battery is. Once they extract the bad battery I'll have the mechanic throw another cable in there or at least tighten the existing ground, hopefully that should end the problems. Ajay, you're hilarious! I don't actually "pay for the chicks" directly, but in order to be around a certain type of chick here in Los Angeles you have to go where the action is, and usually that's in some club that wants $30 at the door to get in and $10 per drink (I have an armpit holster like the detectives wear, except I keep a little bottle of Hpno in mine!) Seriously though, Hermosa I did the search, thanks, very informative. I spend more time reading the threads here then reading emails from the head partner here at my law firm! ha ha! Thanks guys, shoot me more info if you come across any...