Adding audio input to SC430 for MP3 or satellite radio, some success at last
#16
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The PIE "noise filter" (actually a ground loop isolator) doesn't require power to operate.
The wooden trim comes off very easily. You don't even need any tools. Just your fingers are enough to pull it off. The keys are pulling the seat warmer control module off first and having the car in neutral (with parking brake on) so the shifter isn't in the way.
The wooden trim comes off very easily. You don't even need any tools. Just your fingers are enough to pull it off. The keys are pulling the seat warmer control module off first and having the car in neutral (with parking brake on) so the shifter isn't in the way.
#17
ok, so does the 4PDT just enable the AUX automatically when it gets a singnal? or is there a physical switch that needs to be tripped? Also, forgive any stupid questions. I know jack about this kinda stuff.
Last edited by Hohlraum; 05-27-04 at 06:18 AM.
#18
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The 4PDT is a manual toggle switch. I rarely listen to anything other than my own audio sources so it's really not an issue for me to flip the switch (inside center console storate compartment) should I ever need the radio or CD player. The iPod is what I listen to while driving.
If you need to change sources more frequently then some means of automatic switching or more convenient switch location should be anticipated.
If you need to change sources more frequently then some means of automatic switching or more convenient switch location should be anticipated.
#20
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Yes, it matters. If you invert one pair relative to the other's connections you end with the left and right channels out of phase. I wired it such that white/black (right) and red/green (left) treated as.....
white right+
black right-
red left +
green left -
Make sure your output from the DC isolator is connected so the same pole of each channel is connected to the same phase. In other words I connected the shields to black and green. The center conductors were connected to white and red wires of the cabling. You could also invert both and still maintain the same phase relationship. I verified the phasing using an old AVIA test CD that had in-phase vs out-of-phase sound.
white right+
black right-
red left +
green left -
Make sure your output from the DC isolator is connected so the same pole of each channel is connected to the same phase. In other words I connected the shields to black and green. The center conductors were connected to white and red wires of the cabling. You could also invert both and still maintain the same phase relationship. I verified the phasing using an old AVIA test CD that had in-phase vs out-of-phase sound.
#22
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Hmmmm, my sound is kinda flaky...I think it might be the relay that I used. I ended up using a "used" relay that i found at my local electronics shop (in the misc drawer )...they didn't have any new ones that would work with the relay socket (like the one in the LS430 install). Ordered a new one...hopefully it'll get here soon and solves the problem.
Also, something I've noticed....when I'm listening to CD's, and I push the relay button to switch over, there is an ambient sound of the external source....I know that the CD changer runs on another set of lines to the amp correct? So does this just mean that it isn't shielded properly? and how would I solve that?
Also, something I've noticed....when I'm listening to CD's, and I push the relay button to switch over, there is an ambient sound of the external source....I know that the CD changer runs on another set of lines to the amp correct? So does this just mean that it isn't shielded properly? and how would I solve that?
Last edited by Tranman; 06-11-04 at 12:55 PM.
#23
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I don't have any new noise in the line with my DPDT switch in either position. Might be the leads you are using. The twisted pairs of the CAT5E cabling are doing a nice job in canceling out pick up of new induction noise. I'd try going switching to the same type of wiring I'm using.
On the SC430, the CD/Tape/FM signals are all carried on the same lines.
On the SC430, the CD/Tape/FM signals are all carried on the same lines.
#24
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Cat5E cabling has four pairs of wires. Each pair is twisted together. For instance, solid green and striped green are twisted together and form one of the pairs. I used one pair each to carry...
Pair 1: Right (+) and Right (-) from head unit connected to 4PDT's position A contacts
Pair 2: Left (+) and Left (-) from head unit connected to 4PDT's position A contacts
Pair 3: Right (+) and Right (-) to ML processor connected to 4PDT's common contacts
Pair 4: Left (+) and Left (-) to ML processor connected to 4PDT's common contacts
Output lines of the PIE "noise filter" (actually a ground loop isolator) were connected to the 4PDT's position B contacts.
Pair 1: Right (+) and Right (-) from head unit connected to 4PDT's position A contacts
Pair 2: Left (+) and Left (-) from head unit connected to 4PDT's position A contacts
Pair 3: Right (+) and Right (-) to ML processor connected to 4PDT's common contacts
Pair 4: Left (+) and Left (-) to ML processor connected to 4PDT's common contacts
Output lines of the PIE "noise filter" (actually a ground loop isolator) were connected to the 4PDT's position B contacts.
#25
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Okay, just got my new relay in....and viola, it fixed the flaky sound. I guess a used $0.50 relay wasn't a good call on my part However, I still get a very faint alternator whining noise, but when I switch over to the external source, it's fine on regular radio/CD. The noise might be coming through my DVD/TV/Nav switcher.....but still sounds a heck of alot better than FM Modulated...I think a Sirius satellite radio would be a nice addition as well now...
Last edited by Tranman; 06-15-04 at 01:08 PM.
#27
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Originally posted by Hohlraum
Do you lose voice prompts from the navigation system when you are switched over to the auxillary input?
Do you lose voice prompts from the navigation system when you are switched over to the auxillary input?
Last edited by Tranman; 06-15-04 at 11:16 AM.
#29
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Thanks Hohlraum. Just got back from a 600 mile overnight road trip. We played just over 150 songs shuffled from my "car" playlist during the ride. The direct connect + iPod was so much better than burning 6 CD's for the ride or settling for the lower quality sound of my old cassete adapter. To make things even better, I also have all the music equalized for volume using iVolume. This keeps the music the same loudness even though the song genre's and decades change during the shuffle. Works better than the iTunes "sound check" but it took almost a day for the computer to analyze my song files. BTW, iVolume doesn't alter the compressed sound stream, but only alters the volume metadata. That means it does its work without destroying sound quality.
At any rate, I (and my wife) are very pleased with the new improved sound and flexibilty of this mod. I wish I had done this a long time ago.
Yes, the voice navigation keeps working just fine. It even mutes the music to say directions just like normal.
BTW, I also tried the iTrip FM transmitter. Compared to the direct connection, the FM iTrip's sound was much restricted in frequency range and dynamics. It's not at all subtle a difference. Once you hear the direct connect, you pretty much can't bear to listen to an iTrip.
At any rate, I (and my wife) are very pleased with the new improved sound and flexibilty of this mod. I wish I had done this a long time ago.
Yes, the voice navigation keeps working just fine. It even mutes the music to say directions just like normal.
BTW, I also tried the iTrip FM transmitter. Compared to the direct connection, the FM iTrip's sound was much restricted in frequency range and dynamics. It's not at all subtle a difference. Once you hear the direct connect, you pretty much can't bear to listen to an iTrip.
Last edited by Seattle SCone; 06-16-04 at 03:20 PM.
#30
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for the gs400
has anybody tried out this mod on the 400? Was the molex in the same place?
Also, what are all the parts that are needed to make this work, as in the more specific part numbers? I went on the PIE website, yet I could not find the DC blocker, and I don't want to order the wrong stuff.
thanks
Also, what are all the parts that are needed to make this work, as in the more specific part numbers? I went on the PIE website, yet I could not find the DC blocker, and I don't want to order the wrong stuff.
thanks