You can mount a free-air sub in the stock hole - this solution seems to work for those of us that don't have requirements for tons of bass - if you do a CL search on this you'll see the combinations that produce good results. You can also mount a box in your trunk, facing upward, frontways, or toward the rear - in this case, yank the stock sub and leave the hole to allow more bass into the cabin.

 

Engin-ear and others:

I've actually started a separate thread about this, but I figured I would also post it in this thread so that those of you who participated would get the e-mail. I went over to a local shop today and asked what my options were. I told them I either wanted to swap out the speakers, change the amp, add a subwoofer, or any combination of these. I said that I ideally would like to start with changing the speakers (front doors only, as we discussed), and then move on to other projects if necessary. The guy scratched his head, talked to a few of the techs, and then proceeded to tell me that I cannot just change out the speakers or add a subwoofer because the system will not accept other components. He said the only way to upgrade the system would be to change everything out -- speakers, amp, wiring and then I could also consider adding a subwoofer.

This information can't be accurate, is it?

e-man

 

Completely incorrect.
1) The stock amp does not particularly care what door speakers it has to drive, as long as the impedance is reasonably close to the stock speakers. You will generally get an improvement in sound as long as you use good components and the install is done well.
2) SO many people on CL here have added subwoofers to stock systems that your installer's comment is no less than a joke. The way it is done is to add a line-level converter (LLC) to the stock amp's sub output, thereby converting it to a level that is acceptable to most aftermarket amps. The new amp then needs a new power feed to it, preferably 8 gauge or larger (4, 2, ...) Then it is just wired to the sub(s), which can be in-the-deck, or separate enclosure.
I suggest that you find a better shop where they know more about how the individual pieces interact. Also somewhere where they aren't going to force you to buy a whole new system from them.

 

I'm in the same situation.

With the limited budget ($500). What's your best recommendation for upgrading the sub?

Should I go for free air JL 10IB4 with your recommend amp?
or
Should I go for the enclosed box 10" sub with amp?

What's the fair price for installing all these components?

For the amp power line, does it go from the battery thru the firewall all the way to the trunk?

I'm new to the audio section, please help thanks

 

My choice would be 10" w/small enclosed box with amp, mounted under the rear deck, firing thru stock woofer hole.
Yes, amp power line goes from battery, thru firewall, to trunk. Must be fused (or ckt brkr) somehow, pref. near battery. Use a heavy gauge wire (8 or 4 gauge) for both ground and power.

 

let me try to understand the whole picture

Signal: stock amp signal (+/-) --> line level converter(is it same as crossover?) --> Amp --> Sub
Power: Battery --> fuse ---------> Amp

Next question, what brand do you guys recommend for amp and sub that fits my budget?

Where can I get the sub box? custom made by the shop or DIY?

Forgive me, trying to learn here. Thanks all

 

A crossover is a divider/router of frequencies to individual speaker types (bass/mid/tweet).
A line-level converter (LLC) takes the full frequency range output of your amp, which is "speaker-level" (has enough voltage/power to drive speakers directly), and drops the voltage level to a "preamp" or "line" level, suitable for connecting to your amp's inputs without overdriving them and causing massive amounts of distortion. The LLC is not frequency dependent like a crossover is, and a crossover does not intentionally attempt to alter the voltage levels of what's connected into it, only filters the signal (but there is some unintentional loss in passive crossovers).
Your question of amp/sub has been asked repeatedly. You will learn a lot by searching the threads here with the keywords for what you're looking for. Also depends on your system goals, and whether you'd be willing to continue to add to or upgrade the system in the future.

 

The "techs" obviously know nothing as well as him. Don't trust him/them with your car!!! And these are "professional" installers?!?! (remember...they're professional if they get paid for it, not that it means that they're any good at it.)

Sounds like a really good candidate for "the book". If only I can get my printer working...parts on order...

Percy