HELP! Need to install 6.5 in front doors Y2K GS4 (CDT HD)
07-26-04, 07:59 PM
#17
My last question, I hope : Is the orange socket the one with the output speakers ? I have not take out the glove compartment yet ; am following the DIY tread pics of the stock amp. They look like the colors of the speakers cables. If I can find the 4 pair of cables, I don`t think I `ll have any problem.
07-26-04, 09:05 PM
#18
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[. If I can find the 4 pair of cables, I don`t think I `ll have any problem. [/B][/QUOTE]
hey Josey, why 4 pairs ? i understand that from the headunit amp there are 2 speaker wires - L/R - going to the (4 channel plus sub) amp !
hey Josey, why 4 pairs ? i understand that from the headunit amp there are 2 speaker wires - L/R - going to the (4 channel plus sub) amp !
07-27-04, 07:41 PM
#19
This is complicated. I think that you are talking about low level inputs, from the HU and the CD changer. Those go to the amp which this particular model on 2nd generation GS acts as pre-amp. I am talking about the high level outputs from the amp to the speakers. Percy is the man to ask this questions; I am only beginning to understand it myself . Josey
07-27-04, 09:08 PM
#20
Moderator - Electronics Forum
Josey,
I'd suggest going to your local Lexus dealership and ask for the EWD's for your car. (electrical wiring diagrams) These are available at the customer service/repair department. The better shops will let you photocopy the pages you need...helps GREATLY!
I think you meant 4 wires, not 4 pairs.
Percy
I'd suggest going to your local Lexus dealership and ask for the EWD's for your car. (electrical wiring diagrams) These are available at the customer service/repair department. The better shops will let you photocopy the pages you need...helps GREATLY!
I think you meant 4 wires, not 4 pairs.
Percy
Originally posted by Josey
My last question, I hope : Is the orange socket the one with the output speakers ? I have not take out the glove compartment yet ; am following the DIY tread pics of the stock amp. They look like the colors of the speakers cables. If I can find the 4 pair of cables, I don`t think I `ll have any problem.
My last question, I hope : Is the orange socket the one with the output speakers ? I have not take out the glove compartment yet ; am following the DIY tread pics of the stock amp. They look like the colors of the speakers cables. If I can find the 4 pair of cables, I don`t think I `ll have any problem.
07-28-04, 07:30 PM
#21
Hi, Percy : Well, I have been making great progress; The amp is on his way, I finished the installation of the speakers asembly on the baflles totally, just waiting for the Deflex panels to put everything on the doors, located the spot for the crossover in the front door panel,(very annoying) and completed the mod in one of the tweeters, taking it apart, soldering the leads again to the new cables and covering with Silicone to isolate everything. Man, I forgot to mark the polarity and I had to find it with a AA battery . Anyway,I tried it on the door and it fits perfect. Little tight but it is because the MD100 is bigger , but as I said , fits perfect, like factory. ! Ahh, I forgot , I fabricated the MDF piece for the amp, not finished yet with that one. Percy, up to now, you were right, is not that difficult; The only thing that is nagging me is the connection of the output speaker cables from the stock amp to the LLCs. I know that if I go to the doors I will have no problems, but I will like to do it close to the stock amp; is neat and less cabling. Since every speaker have 2 cables, I assume that I need to find 4 pair of cables, a pair to speaker. Can you explain to me what to do there or guide me a little bit... I think that is the only problem for me . After that, is straightforward, running the cables, power and ground, (solved the turn on lead mystery), etc. I also already know how to adjust the LLCs, so the project is looking good, and it is a great satisfaction to know that I am doing it, and doing it better that any shop.(with the help of you guys, of course). Thanks very much for everything Josey
07-28-04, 09:51 PM
#22
Moderator - Electronics Forum
Josey,
Nice job on your installation so far. I'd usually recommend to everyone to do it themselves to save $$$ and also lots of frustration. Glad to see this paid off.
As for the two rear "sub" speakers, it's just 4 wires, 2 pairs (4 wires) going back there. Just hook them up to the LLC and an amp of your choice.
Try to remember what the sound is right now...and then compare it when you have the Deflex panels in. They do make for a marked difference.
Percy
Nice job on your installation so far. I'd usually recommend to everyone to do it themselves to save $$$ and also lots of frustration. Glad to see this paid off.
As for the two rear "sub" speakers, it's just 4 wires, 2 pairs (4 wires) going back there. Just hook them up to the LLC and an amp of your choice.
Try to remember what the sound is right now...and then compare it when you have the Deflex panels in. They do make for a marked difference.
Percy
07-29-04, 07:41 AM
#23
Percy: That`s is what I am thinking; there must be 4 pairs of wires getting out of the stock amp to the speakers, 1 pair for speaker. I have not yet got to desmounting the glove box and taking a look at the amp. I will wait to have the installation on the doors and trunk finished to actually get to that. It breaks my heart to see mi beautiful car in pieces... My previus question was to ease my mind on the subject; Am always thinking about what I am going to do later, and going thru the steps in my mind, so I can avoid making mistakes. So far, that is the only obstacle in the Horizon. Well, when I get there I`ll see . Any way, I want to let you know that I am a fellow audiophile too; I have the Musical Fidelity Nuvista M3 amp and the 3D cd player, along with PS-Audio P-600 and 300 power conditioners and interconnect and power cables , etc etc and my speakers are the Electa-Amator II from Sonus Faber combined with 2 Gravis subs, also from Sonus Faber( I prefer the combination of monitors and subs again full size speakers) , and , even tho I know I can`t aspire to obtain the same level of quality in my car than in my home , I want to give it try . Thanks so much Josey
07-29-04, 10:37 AM
#24
Moderator - Electronics Forum
In most cases it's easier to rig up a home system than in a car. Get the speaker placement right, check the room acoustics and then plug and play from there on. With the car it's alot tougher since there are alot more variables. Once when you have a basic system in mind, a processor (parametric equalizer or 30 band eq) comes in very very handy.
I know that I can't ever match up to my home system...Sony modified SACD SCD-1 (the big guy), modified Denon amp/preamp and Dynaudio Esotar goodies. I'll come close though!
Percy
McIntosh/Dynaudio/Velodyne/Monster M Series/Sony C90 modded...not even close to being finished!
I know that I can't ever match up to my home system...Sony modified SACD SCD-1 (the big guy), modified Denon amp/preamp and Dynaudio Esotar goodies. I'll come close though!
Percy
McIntosh/Dynaudio/Velodyne/Monster M Series/Sony C90 modded...not even close to being finished!
07-29-04, 03:02 PM
#25
Lexus Champion
Originally posted by Percy
It's a good plan to start off with. BUT, why do you need the foam baffles? IME, you're much better off with a MDF (medium density fiberboard) and make the baffles from there. Foam baffles, especially the ones from XTC, are a waste of money. The lexus is already sealed up fairly well in the doors and if the speakers are plastic/poly (or even a paper mix) they'll hold up fairly well.
I've had another member on the board use XTC baffles and due to the restrictions (baffle covering the entire rear of the midwoofer) the speaker lost alot of it's midbass and some midrange performance. Best thing to do is the make a baffle board (note...doesn't cover the rear of the speaker, but lets it use the door as an enclosure), make a 1/2 inch spacer ring and then use some Deflex material on the door itself. The Deflex helps to prevent the "hollow can" sound...works great.
Remember...foam baffles cover the entire rear of the speaker. The baffles that I'm talking about are basically a plate (you make) that the speaker can mount to. BIG difference in sound.
Percy
It's a good plan to start off with. BUT, why do you need the foam baffles? IME, you're much better off with a MDF (medium density fiberboard) and make the baffles from there. Foam baffles, especially the ones from XTC, are a waste of money. The lexus is already sealed up fairly well in the doors and if the speakers are plastic/poly (or even a paper mix) they'll hold up fairly well.
I've had another member on the board use XTC baffles and due to the restrictions (baffle covering the entire rear of the midwoofer) the speaker lost alot of it's midbass and some midrange performance. Best thing to do is the make a baffle board (note...doesn't cover the rear of the speaker, but lets it use the door as an enclosure), make a 1/2 inch spacer ring and then use some Deflex material on the door itself. The Deflex helps to prevent the "hollow can" sound...works great.
Remember...foam baffles cover the entire rear of the speaker. The baffles that I'm talking about are basically a plate (you make) that the speaker can mount to. BIG difference in sound.
Percy
I wrote this message in a PM to another member here on the forum:
Q3: Do you still think I should keep the baffles closed, or should I cut them open?
A3: This question took a long time for me to find the answer to and I eventually ended up cutting them open.
This is why: Polk designed it door speakers to utilize the free space inside the door. By placing the speakers in a baffle we are modifying the environment in which they were designed to perform their best. I started out with full baffles that were too big and crinkled. Then I cut a small slit/port in the baffle which improved the bass (deeper). The I installed shorter, closed baffles and wasn't as happy. Did a little more homework and went back to the deep baffles but cut them down to about 2" deep. So now the back of the speaker looks like a horn. The baffle extends from the back about 2" but is completely open. This is the best option in my opinion. It protects the woofer from any possible moisture (Lexus is sealed up pretty tight anyway) and allows the speaker to used the door as a cabinet.
A3: This question took a long time for me to find the answer to and I eventually ended up cutting them open.
This is why: Polk designed it door speakers to utilize the free space inside the door. By placing the speakers in a baffle we are modifying the environment in which they were designed to perform their best. I started out with full baffles that were too big and crinkled. Then I cut a small slit/port in the baffle which improved the bass (deeper). The I installed shorter, closed baffles and wasn't as happy. Did a little more homework and went back to the deep baffles but cut them down to about 2" deep. So now the back of the speaker looks like a horn. The baffle extends from the back about 2" but is completely open. This is the best option in my opinion. It protects the woofer from any possible moisture (Lexus is sealed up pretty tight anyway) and allows the speaker to used the door as a cabinet.
Last edited by TwentyTen; 07-29-04 at 03:09 PM.
07-29-04, 07:17 PM
#26
Moderator - Electronics Forum
With open baffles, there are already plenty of things to resonate. Now with the baffles cut out 2 inches, the foam itself will cause more noise. I'd suggest getting the foam baffles out of there.
Don't worry about the moisture within the doors...the speakers should do fine.
Do you have any Deflex in there?
Percy
Don't worry about the moisture within the doors...the speakers should do fine.
Do you have any Deflex in there?
Percy
07-29-04, 10:30 PM
#28
Lexus Champion
Originally posted by Percy
With open baffles, there are already plenty of things to resonate. Now with the baffles cut out 2 inches, the foam itself will cause more noise. I'd suggest getting the foam baffles out of there.
Don't worry about the moisture within the doors...the speakers should do fine.
Do you have any Deflex in there?
Percy
With open baffles, there are already plenty of things to resonate. Now with the baffles cut out 2 inches, the foam itself will cause more noise. I'd suggest getting the foam baffles out of there.
Don't worry about the moisture within the doors...the speakers should do fine.
Do you have any Deflex in there?
Percy
UPDATE: I did a little homework on Deflex pads and I think by using my remaining Dynamat sheets I can place them inside the door, behind the speaker to achieve the same result: Eliminate standing waves.
This example shows the installer using CAE Deflex like dynamat :
Deflex Power Pads are a revolutionary new waterproof damping pad, specially designed to prevent speaker cone break-up due to standing waves and enclosure resonance. This allows higher sound volumes with a minimum of distortion.
Last edited by TwentyTen; 07-29-04 at 10:43 PM.
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