Hi,

I'm planning on running this setup and was wondering if there are anything I should look over.

MB Quart QSD216 front and rear
JL 10IB4 10" sub
JL 450/4 amp (speakers)
JL 500/1 amp (sub)

Seeing as the 10IB4 takes only about 100W (if i'm reading the specs right), then I should probably just go for the JL 250/1 amp to power it rite? Do you think I mite need a capacitor as well? Any info on whether I should go with something else or if you see a problem would be great.

Thanx,
Anthony

*edit* the deck or source i guess what it's called is the eclipse avn 5435

 

The QSD components are very nice, you will be interested in the info from Kev7909 in this thread over atEliteCarAudio

Read his reply on the 3rd page of that thread, it talks about how he has it setup in his GS300.

The JL 450/4 would be a nice choice for powering the front components active or bi-wired. The 75 watt channels will go to the tweeters and the stronger channels of the amp to the mids. You will have to use the amps onboard crossovers, since the Eclipse AVN5435(Which is an AWESOME unit) does not have built in crossovers.

EDIT: If I recall correctly the QSD components passive crossovers will allow you to bi-wire.

For that sub that you have picked out, the 500/1 is definitely overkill. If you do not plan on upgrading to a larger setup the 250/1 will be plenty of power(in fact you will need to keep the gains and bass boost turned down.

Are you planning on mounting the sub in the rear deck ?

 

well i was thinkin the 450/4 would power both component set. Or should i get somethin higher or another amp to power each pair? basically qsd216 for the front AND rear. yea i'm plannin on mounting the sub in the stock location to keep trunk space. so 250/1 is good then, less money to spend on power not needed. do you think i'd need a cap?

 

Ya that 500/1 will destroy that ib woofer. I would upgrade the woofer before you compromise the power you will run.

 

just get a nice 10" put in the stock spot and have someone build a box around it
fiberglass would be nice

 

hey guys,

Well i've been doin more readin up on brands out there and so on to try and get an idea of what's available instead of listenin to just the car audio shop. I found quite a few free air subs out there (sounddomain.com) lists whether it can be used as free air or not. So in searching, I found a couple subs that were good but the price has me second guessing the quality of the product. For example, they have a sub called Boss Ripper RIP210DVC. dual 4 ohms, rms 500w, peak 1000w, freq 35-2200, sens at 94 db for only $38.95. Spec wise it seems all good but like they say, pay for what you get. So i looked more and found the Infinity Kappa Perfect 10DVQ, 400w rms, 1600w peak, 25-400freq, and 90db sensitivity for $249.95. What's your opinions on these? I've also searched around for amps and found that a good 600w 4 channel goes for roughly 400-500 dollars but yet there's one by, once again, boss that goes for 100-150. Should I just stay away from Boss and others like it? And could you advise on a good amp for the sub, somewhere along the lines of 400w rms, and 600w rms 4 channel for speakers? both pair of QSD216s, front and back, are gonna be running their tweeters unless i shouldn't for the rear?

Thanx a lot,
Anthony

 

STAY AWAY from Boss.
About the rear speakers, are you planning on setting up surround sound for movies, or is the install geared more towards music listening.

I personally do not run any rear speakers, unless I'm setting up a system with 5.1 Surround, and in this case, spending 400+ dollars on rear speakers is aa total waste of $ that can be focused somewhere else in the system.

I would say if you do want rear speakers, then to just get a set of 6.5" coaxials(2 ways)

I'm not familliar with this forum's rules about posting ebay links but there is a set of Q series 2 way coaxials QM1116KX for 100 bucks, that will work perfect for rearfill speakers, to match the front setup.

For the front if you're up to it, I would order the 4" QSD component set and then add on the 6.5" Midbass kit.

Mount the 6.5" in the door's stock location, and build a kickpod for the 4" midrange. For the tweet mount it in the a pillar 4 inches above dash and slightly pointed towards the windshield

As for an amp decision, I can make some recomendations if you'd like , but first are you set on using rear speakers? Basically is this going to incorporate surround sound for movie watching?

Because if not you really don't need rear speakers.

 

lexrunner,

just like to say thanx in advance for helping. yea this system would be used to view movies now and then. main priority tho is music, second is the movies. so i shouldn't go 6.5 components all around?

 

If you're willing to spend the money on those components, I'd be all about it.. I'm just trying to stress that you should spend less on the rear speakers and more on the fronts( and more power to the front)

I would just get a 2 way coaxial speaker for around 100 bucks and focus that 300+ dollars you saved on the rest of the system.

Rear speakers for surround don't need the amount of power that the front speakers should be using.

My idea of the ultimate setup would be a 3 way component set in the front, running off a 6 channel amp, no rearfill and a really nice freeair 10" or 12" sub in the rear deck(or 3 )

But since you like rearfill, I would go with 2 way component set, wired active, rear coaxials(or components if you don't mind the extra money, but run those with the passive crossover's)

How about this for an amp setup.

DLS Reference RA40 4 channel (75 w rms x 4) powering front components. DLS RA30. 2 x50 w rms to rear speakers and 265 watts rms to the rear sub.

http://www.dls.se/english/fstark/iframe.htm

For a quote on those amps, PM Scott Buwalda of Buwalda Hybrids

Probably cost's less than the JL amps, and the SQ is just as good, if not better than the JL.