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Help: Best sub setup for 1st gen LS400?

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Old 08-19-05, 04:19 PM
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absolut
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Default Help: Best sub setup for 1st gen LS400?

I currently have a 15" MMATS JUGGERNAUT powered by a MMATS 1200w amp (this amp is way underrated and probably pushes 1500w+ but I wouldn't know for sure) in a ported box. The box was professionally made and everything else was also pro installed. Now, this setup is really loud and beats pretty hard and if you know anything about mmats and juggernauts, then you know this a fairly powerful setup. It beats hard and loud inside my trunk but inside my car the sound is cut in half. I've tried a few things to help with this such as flipping the box straight up and removing the stock sub/subcover which helped some but not enough. My installer thinks my problem is that the sound is being blocked by my huge gas tank that sits between my backseats and trunk (I don't know why lexus ever did this). I'm having my enire trunk dynamatted soon, so that should help some. But does anyone know a good way around this?



I have a friend with 2 12" sony xplode's in his neon that are beating harder than I am and this makes me want to cry.
Old 08-19-05, 05:19 PM
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NisAznMonk
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Our leather seats help deaden sound too, thats why its sooo hard to make luxory cars sound good without a heavy investment. I have a 93 LS400 and I'm gonna vent my rear deck to help get the bass into the cabin. There isn't much you can do because the stupid gas tank is in the trunk.
Old 10-05-05, 05:40 PM
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mtaalib3
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Default mmats sub

well sound deadening your trunk is a step in the right direction. every time your bass hits and your panel flexes, you loose bass impact as well as spl (loudness). what i would do is extreme but consistent with my current set up (three 12 inch id maxes in a sealed enclosure) and definetly worth it. you could have your box redesigned so that the port and the sub are on the same side. then have your installer cut a minimum of a 1 inch strip of mdf to go around the entire outside of your box on the same side as your port and the sub. you may also want to have him cut additional large holes in the sheet metal of the rear deck so that the bass from the port and sub flows into the car unobstructed. the 1 inch strip of mdf will act as a buffer between the box and your rear deck.

do you get the idea? you want to face your sub and port up towards the rear deck/rear window. you can use caulk or silicone on the edges of the 1 inch mdf that will make contact with your rear deck so there are no leaks. after allowng the caulk or silicone to dry you should use dynamat to further seal the 1 inch strip to the rear deck. a good method would be to cut 1.5 inch strips of dynamat and allow half of the dynamat to cover the mdf strip and the other half to go up to your rear deck. if you cut the dynamat in long 1.5 inch strips it will be much easier to go around the entire box. the idea is to keep all the bass sound going into your inside cabin and none in your trunk.

finally you are going to need your installer to fabricate you a new rear deck cover. one that will not hinder any of your bass from coming into the cabin. mine is made of fiberglass and cloth. remember i have three 12 inch subs in a huge sealed, seperate chamber, box approx 1.45 cu. feet per sub. trust me, when all is said and done your trunk won't even rattle. your rear window and roof are another matter. in your current set up you will only get 1/2 of the bass no matter how much you dynamat the trunk. feel free to ask any questions and good luck.
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