Custom Baffle for 7" Front in GS
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The Dyn's ordered are in and I've decided to let the professionals at the car audio store install them instead of doing it myself. Putting in the 240MKII and also MW160's in rear.
I'd like to take some custom GS baffle pics or 'gotcha's to the installer with me. He HAS done this with a GS before (his boss has one), but it's been a while.
I've searched this board and the old EZboard and can't find the pics I know someone has posted in the past. Saw BananaGS's install pics (thanks!), but he it looks like he enlared the stock opening rather than creating a custom baffle.
Percy gave me the following advice about fabricating a baffle as well (thanks as well!) " Easiest way to make a baffle is to use the stock speaker housing as a template and then get some 1/2 inch birch to cut a rough template for them. Just trace the outer edge of the housing and you should do fine. To bolt them on, use the stock screws and some metal strapping that can be found in the local hardware store. It's a strap metal with holes every 1/2 to 1 inch. The same type found under the sink. You'll also need a 7 inch diameter, 1 inch thick spacer ring. This is to make sure everything clears the window as it's coming down. DO NOT DEVIATE from the material measurements I gave you...otherwise it WON'T WORK. "
My question: does anyone have pics/links of a GS baffle build/install or additional caveats I should take along that would be helpful? My appointment is on Wed 9/5.
Thanks in advance
I'd like to take some custom GS baffle pics or 'gotcha's to the installer with me. He HAS done this with a GS before (his boss has one), but it's been a while.
I've searched this board and the old EZboard and can't find the pics I know someone has posted in the past. Saw BananaGS's install pics (thanks!), but he it looks like he enlared the stock opening rather than creating a custom baffle.
Percy gave me the following advice about fabricating a baffle as well (thanks as well!) " Easiest way to make a baffle is to use the stock speaker housing as a template and then get some 1/2 inch birch to cut a rough template for them. Just trace the outer edge of the housing and you should do fine. To bolt them on, use the stock screws and some metal strapping that can be found in the local hardware store. It's a strap metal with holes every 1/2 to 1 inch. The same type found under the sink. You'll also need a 7 inch diameter, 1 inch thick spacer ring. This is to make sure everything clears the window as it's coming down. DO NOT DEVIATE from the material measurements I gave you...otherwise it WON'T WORK. "
My question: does anyone have pics/links of a GS baffle build/install or additional caveats I should take along that would be helpful? My appointment is on Wed 9/5.
Thanks in advance
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Since I didn't get any responses (and could never find the baffle pics myself), I asked my installer if I could take some pics of the baffle he fabricated for me, and he graciously agreed. I didn't have time to stay and take pics of the entire install, but was able to get the baffle piece.
Percy (no offense), he didn't like the idea of putting the strap metal behind the speaker and wanted to support the speaker with full clearance on the baffle itself.
Following are some notes that match the numbers in the picture attached below ( 1 of 2 postings).
1) Remove the door panel, pull out the stock baffle and speaker (I have these pics too if anyone needs them). Place the baffle on a piece of 5/8" thickness wood and trace the outline with a marker.
2) Be sure to mark the stock mounting holes and speaker mounting area (for centering and depth testing later). My installer removed the top mounting tab (just cut it off) so the baffle would fit better.
3) Outline of baffle. Looks a bit like a pot-belly pig, eh?
4) Using a sabre saw, carefully cut out the baffle. Wear your safety glasses!
5) Baffle prior to mounting. The 'X' gives you an idea of where the stock speaker was centered. We'll drill holes along those lines later to test depth.
continued in subsequent post...
Percy (no offense), he didn't like the idea of putting the strap metal behind the speaker and wanted to support the speaker with full clearance on the baffle itself.
Following are some notes that match the numbers in the picture attached below ( 1 of 2 postings).
1) Remove the door panel, pull out the stock baffle and speaker (I have these pics too if anyone needs them). Place the baffle on a piece of 5/8" thickness wood and trace the outline with a marker.
2) Be sure to mark the stock mounting holes and speaker mounting area (for centering and depth testing later). My installer removed the top mounting tab (just cut it off) so the baffle would fit better.
3) Outline of baffle. Looks a bit like a pot-belly pig, eh?
4) Using a sabre saw, carefully cut out the baffle. Wear your safety glasses!
5) Baffle prior to mounting. The 'X' gives you an idea of where the stock speaker was centered. We'll drill holes along those lines later to test depth.
continued in subsequent post...
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Custom baffle fabrication, continued.
6) After drilling holes along stock speaker center lines, mount the baffle to test fit using the stock bolts. Make sure windows are rolled down.
7) Depending on the speaker you're using, test the depth to the door/glass prior to install to ensure it will all fit. You can do this by marking on something other than the fancy tool he had, then measuring it after you pull it out.
8) After confirming depth was close to working, we wanted to test using the actual speaker. Baffle was taken back off the car and the speaker hole was cut out with the sabre saw. I believe most speakers come with a pattern to mark the exact size.
9) The 7" Dynaudio MW160's do not quite fit flush mounted on the baffle, they just barely touch the glass (this is bad on the good/bad scale). My installer used the stock mounting rings, but inverse to gain the additional depth needed.
10) He pulled off the Dynaudio badges and filed down the area where they were mounted so he'd get an all-around smooth surface to create a good seal.
Unfortunately, this is where I had to leave... I think I got the important parts of the baffle fabrication and I welcome additions or corrections. Hope someone else finds this useful!
More posts later on initial reactions to the finished product (hint, they rock!)
6) After drilling holes along stock speaker center lines, mount the baffle to test fit using the stock bolts. Make sure windows are rolled down.
7) Depending on the speaker you're using, test the depth to the door/glass prior to install to ensure it will all fit. You can do this by marking on something other than the fancy tool he had, then measuring it after you pull it out.
8) After confirming depth was close to working, we wanted to test using the actual speaker. Baffle was taken back off the car and the speaker hole was cut out with the sabre saw. I believe most speakers come with a pattern to mark the exact size.
9) The 7" Dynaudio MW160's do not quite fit flush mounted on the baffle, they just barely touch the glass (this is bad on the good/bad scale). My installer used the stock mounting rings, but inverse to gain the additional depth needed.
10) He pulled off the Dynaudio badges and filed down the area where they were mounted so he'd get an all-around smooth surface to create a good seal.
Unfortunately, this is where I had to leave... I think I got the important parts of the baffle fabrication and I welcome additions or corrections. Hope someone else finds this useful!
More posts later on initial reactions to the finished product (hint, they rock!)
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Dave,
Nice install pics! For the record, I never did put a strap BEHIND the speaker! These were in front of the baffle used to hold the baffle/speaker assembly in place. The speaker itself is supported by the 1/2 inch birch and not by the straps. The straps are used to hold the baffle assembly using stock mounting locations and screws. With the 1/2 inch birch and 1 inch spacer ring, they never touch the window and were a solid fit, perfectly flush. Don't forget to use a good caulk for the baffle to get a good seal. The baffle was already solid but the additional seal would't hurt any!![Smilie](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Never could find those pics....
Percy
Nice install pics! For the record, I never did put a strap BEHIND the speaker! These were in front of the baffle used to hold the baffle/speaker assembly in place. The speaker itself is supported by the 1/2 inch birch and not by the straps. The straps are used to hold the baffle assembly using stock mounting locations and screws. With the 1/2 inch birch and 1 inch spacer ring, they never touch the window and were a solid fit, perfectly flush. Don't forget to use a good caulk for the baffle to get a good seal. The baffle was already solid but the additional seal would't hurt any!
![Smilie](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Never could find those pics....
Percy
#5
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I'm bring back a blast from the past. I'm trying to build these baffles for my LS400 right now, and its a pain! I'm also tryign to fit 7" speakers.. the ScanSpeak 18S Revelators..
What other wood working tools do you guys use? My jig saw is making this task extremely difficult and tedious..
Dave, do you have any more pics of yoru install? How much was your door deadened? Did you use anything to seal those big holes in the other section of the door?
Any more pics will be appreciated.
What other wood working tools do you guys use? My jig saw is making this task extremely difficult and tedious..
Dave, do you have any more pics of yoru install? How much was your door deadened? Did you use anything to seal those big holes in the other section of the door?
Any more pics will be appreciated.
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My 'old setup' from 2001 above were rebuilt when I had my trunk ICE setup redone in 2004/2005. Better wiring & more sound deadening added.
Lots of pictures here
http://www.somniplex.com/gallery/Notreallydone-Sept2004
Comparison picture old to new
![](http://www.somniplex.com/gallery/albums/Notreallydone-Sept2004/IMG_5983.jpg)
In door
Lots of pictures here
http://www.somniplex.com/gallery/Notreallydone-Sept2004
Comparison picture old to new
![](http://www.somniplex.com/gallery/albums/Notreallydone-Sept2004/IMG_5983.jpg)
In door
![](http://www.somniplex.com/gallery/albums/Notreallydone-Sept2004/IMG_5953.jpg)
#7
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Thanks for the quick reply and pics. Now if I can just figure out how to MAKE that. So your doors didnt have any other holes in the sheet metal that holds the speaker? Mine has two huge ones, one for the speaker baffle, and another.. not sure what its for. I think I'm going to use aluminum sheet metal to seal it.
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#8
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you have a relatively deep speaker depth in your doors which is really nice, especially as opposed to the GS'. Where are you in CA? baffles are pretty simple, especially if you can use stock holes to fasten it to the doors.
#9
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I'm in the bay area.. San Jose. Actually, there really isn't that much depth. I'm going to have to fiberglass my door panels. Right now I just want to mount the speaker to the door. I've made some progress-- I'll post pics a little bit later today.
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