ap0718

Gene,
I just got my TV's installed, but the back headrest TV's are dim due to the lack of power. I am planning on putting a single 15 inch solobaric with two kicker amps and replacing the mids and highs. Do you suggest that I get a new battery just for the system in the trunk? Or, Should I get a bigger battery and once I install the sub system, just get a couple capacitors???

I heard that having 2 battery's can generate some problems?? I'm not too familiar with it, so if you can give any type of feedback, it would really help out.

Thanks

Eric Holdaway

Hello!


>I just got my TV's installed, but the back headrest TV's are dim due to the lack of power.


That sounds weird... make sure you are viewing on-axis and that you have the brightness up.


>I am planning on putting >a single 15 inch solobaric with two kicker amps and
> replacing the mids and highs. Do you suggest that I get a new battery just for
>the system in the trunk? Or, Should I get a bigger battery and once I install
> the sub system, just get a couple capacitors???


How many watts are you going to have in the system. If you have an old battery
and if you are going to have 1000 or less watts - a good HD battery and maybe
a 1 farad cap.

Percy

I just got my TV's installed, but the back headrest TV's are dim due to the lack of power.

***Easiest thing is to check the brightness setting. If they are still dim, check the battery voltage...make sure it's putting out 12 volts. Or it could be the backlight/inverter that's used as the backlight for the display TV's.

I heard that having 2 battery's can generate some problems?? I'm not too familiar with it, so if you can give any type of feedback, it would really help out.

***Two batteries will just present an additional load to the alternator. In most cases, the extra battery will not help. Two batteries will just help a system run longer, but that's about it. But then the alternator has to work harder to charge two batteries and power the system.

Percy

Mean Gene

AP - Percy & Eric pretty much covered all the bases! About the secondary battery - unless U play your system with the car off, it's been my experience that it's an unnecessary addition except in an SPL system. I'm even considering removing my trunk mounted Optima. While the car's running, the alternator provides the voltage for your system & the #2 battery is just an additional load for the alternator ( as Percy said ). I'd try your suggestion of upgrading to an Optima Yellow Top & seeing if your lights dim. If so, then use the standard audio rule of thumb ( mentioned by Eric ) of 1 farad/1000 wrms. The Kicker amp U put on your mids & highs really won't cause a problem but what size amp will be on your Solobaric dictates your capacitor decision. Another option would be to look into a Jacob's Accuvolt ( step up voltage regulator ). As long as it gets a minimium of 9.5 VDC ( input ), it will maintain a rock steady output voltage of 14-16 VDC - user adjustable. It also cleans up the signal if noise is a problem ( ground loops, etc ). However, try the most basic steps first ( Optima ) & go from there. The more equipment U add to a system the more chances of problems U may have. U can look at the Accuvolt at http://www.jacobselectronics.com/pro...o/caraudio.htm
Enjoy the system!!

sarkastro

Does anyone know the ballpark cost of one of the accuvolts? specifically the 750 and 1500 models...

Mean Gene

Sark - I called Jacobs when I first designed my system ( 1.5 years ago ) & they gave me the following pricing: FR1500 - $400; FR750 - $300 & $250 for the FR375. They offered me a package deal of $875 if I bought all 3. In hindsight, I wish I'd have picked up the FR1500 & not used the Stinger caps & extra Optima - live & learn, I guess!

sarkastro

Those are pretty reasonable prices, though I was expecting more for some reason. This looks to beat the high output alternator I was considering putting in my car. I'm assuming placement would need to be between my battery and the distribution block? Or would I need a seperate unit for each amp?

Thanks for the info!

retrodrive

I am one of the hapy owners of the Optima Yellow battery and it does live up to all the hype about it. Its like that though:
Optima Yellow Top - sound applications deep cycle battery (can recharge)
Optoma Red Top - Best to start the car with (I think its not deep cycle and cannot be recharged again)

Mean Gene

Sark - How many U'll need depends on the total amperage draw of your system. The FR1500 will handle up to 100 amps so if your total system only draws that, then install the unit as U said & it will power multiple amps ( within that amperage draw range ). Most system's I've seen ( IASCA & USAC ) generally only use them on their bass systems as those draw the most current. Might be overkill to install one just for mids & highs, though I CAN see a need for one on a solid midbass application or if ya have noise problems ( the Accuvolt filters the signal after stepping up the voltage to the setting U've created - great for bass amps with unregulated power sources like RF ). My original plan was to use one on my Power 1100a2 only ( instead of another Optima & two 1-farad caps ). I was gonna wire it in like the caps R - between the Optima & the 1100. As a side note - been getting discouraged competing against guys who couldn't carry a Ziploc bag in their trunk. Mine's a daily driver & I MUST have a spare & the ability to carry at least a few suitcases or grocery bags. Not to seem like sour grapes as I admire those who have the money ( or sponsorship ) to have a dedicated crank-it-up ryde but I don't fall in that category! Thinking long & hard about either getting out of the audio scene or just re-doing the GS like Percy says - for MY enjoyment ( I did make some concessions to things that I know judges like to see in this install but some R things that I'd not normally consider for a grocery getter ). Considering a letter or E-beam to both organizations to see if they've given any thought to a class ( with various power categories ) for PRACTICAL vehicle designs; read - daily drivers. If not, might be going away or redesigning things.
Retro - Optima told me that both the Yellow & Red Tops have the same CCA's ( 800 ) so either will work well for starting. However, U're correct that the Yellow Top is deep-cycling & can be zero-discharged numerous times before it must be replaced. The Red can be drawn all the way down but will not yield as many recharges as the Yellow ( about 50% as many, according to the Optima tech I spoke with ).

sarkastro

Thanks again for all the info-

Currently, I am having noise problems, but they might be related to my headunit (mid quality Pioneer) which is being replaced this weekend when the shop gets my Alpine 7977 in. This is probably a dumb question, but how can I tell how many amps the system is drawing? Is the recommended fuse rating any indication?

I would love to see a class setup specifically for daily drivers. Something along the lines of having to maintain a certain percentage of your cargo volume might work.

Mean Gene

Sark - Yep, the fuse requirements will getcha real close to the ballpark. My 1100 requires two 50 amp fuses & the RF birth certificate says 96.8 amperage draw at the 2 ohm mono power rating of 1344 watts. Which amps R U running as they should have a spec sheet enclosed with them? Or U might try going to the manufacturer's website as well.

sarkastro

I tried hitting the websites, but couldn't find the info. I'll check the birthseet on my bd500.1 I know it's rated at 692 at 2 ohms. My mids and highs are run off a JL 300/4.

Mean Gene

Sark - The bd needs a 50 amp fuse & my best guess on the JL ( based on it's power rating versus other amps that size ) would be no larger than another 50 amp so it looks like a single FR1500 would cover the power needs of your entire system. U're probably correct about some of your noise coming from the Pioneer - maybe a low pre-amp output voltage close to 2 VDC. The Alpine model should have ya up near 4 VDC or higher & that alone should help clean up the signal.

retrodrive

Thx for clearing that out Mean Gene. There are debates about those batterys all over the place and everyone has different oppinions on that. Now I know whats up.

ap0718

Thanks for the battery info, it was a great help.

Another question:

Is there any way to get around the tilt feature in the headrest when installing TV's in there???
When cutting up the headrest, you will find a plastic block that allows the tilt feature on all the headrest, but that plastic block takes up a lot of the bottom space on the headrest. If you are trying to mount an installation kit for the LCD screen, it is very hard to get around.

Any comments!!!