Need help hooking up a AVIC-D1 by replacing a Nakamichi HU
#46
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He'll just drive down to where you are with wires hanging out of his car everywhere and kidnap you until the job's finished.
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#47
EV ftw!!!
Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by engin_ear
Hameed, you can buy a great box for your sub without having to make one.
Best = Obcon (check www.sounddomain.com)
OK = QLogic (www.Crutchfield.com) & R/T (www.sounddomain.com)
Jerry
Best = Obcon (check www.sounddomain.com)
OK = QLogic (www.Crutchfield.com) & R/T (www.sounddomain.com)
Jerry
1. I will order the sub box from the link you posted. That is just awesome! Question about mounting this box. I read on another thread - I think it was a post that RMMGS4 replied to about replacing the rear parcel shelf with an MDF board. Not sure how easy that is. What did you do in your car to overcome this limitation (the thin rear shelf)?
2. Thanks for posting the pics of the baffles for the door speakers - it makes it so much less intimidating now that I have seen what you did.
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- Where can I buy that MDF board?
- Is this a Home Depot type item?
- What is its thickness?
- What tool do I need to get to make those circular cutouts?
3. Thanks for posting the pic of how the amps are mounted on the back of the rear seat. I was thinking about this all last night and it hit me this morning that - that is the perfectly logical place to install them. Then I read your comments and my thoughts were confirmed.
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- I am guessing I can also mount the crossovers there as well.
#48
EV ftw!!!
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Originally Posted by bitkahuna
engin_ear - mad skillz man... ![Woot](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/woot.gif)
Hameed - so you're going for it huh?
Congrats! No doubt a big adventure but you'll be psyched once you get it done. Have you considered dynamatting (or brown bread) the doors/trunk too while you're at all this?
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Hameed - so you're going for it huh?
![Big Grin](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
With Jerry's help, I am pretty confident now that I can do it! Thanks again Jerry!
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Regarding the sound insulation - yes I will be doing that as well. I didn't bother asking questions about that on this thread as I have already figured out how to do it. I also bought a ton of sound deadening a while back - so I had no questions there either.
Originally Posted by bitkahuna
He'll just drive down to where you are with wires hanging out of his car everywhere and kidnap you until the job's finished. ![Big Grin](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![Big Grin](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
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#50
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Originally Posted by Hameed
1. I will order the sub box from the link you posted. That is just awesome! Question about mounting this box. I read on another thread - I think it was a post that RMMGS4 replied to about replacing the rear parcel shelf with an MDF board. Not sure how easy that is. What did you do in your car to overcome this limitation (the thin rear shelf)?
> - Where can I buy that MDF board?
> - Is this a Home Depot type item?
Yes.
> - What is its thickness?
3/4" - 1"
> What tool do I need to get to make those circular cutouts?
That be a jigsaw Bob.
![Big Grin](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
3. Thanks for posting the pic of how the amps are mounted on the back of the rear seat. I was thinking about this all last night and it hit me this morning that - that is the perfectly logical place to install them. Then I read your comments and my thoughts were confirmed.
![Thumb Up](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
#51
EV ftw!!!
Thread Starter
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Thanks Paul!
I will head down to Home Depot tonight and buy the mdf board and a jig saw!
Jerry, I found this sub enclosure - http://www.cardomain.com/item/OBCGZ31810 which I think will be fine for the Focal Utopia 27WX even though it is an 11 inch sub. The box is for a 10 inch sub, but on the sound domain website, they recommend a 10 inch sub box - http://www.cardomain.com/item/FOC27WX?sku=FOC27WX
Looking at the sub box, how would it mounted to the rear parcel shelf? Would I need to build some sort of brace to attach to this box and then attach the brace to the shelf?
I will head down to Home Depot tonight and buy the mdf board and a jig saw!
Jerry, I found this sub enclosure - http://www.cardomain.com/item/OBCGZ31810 which I think will be fine for the Focal Utopia 27WX even though it is an 11 inch sub. The box is for a 10 inch sub, but on the sound domain website, they recommend a 10 inch sub box - http://www.cardomain.com/item/FOC27WX?sku=FOC27WX
Looking at the sub box, how would it mounted to the rear parcel shelf? Would I need to build some sort of brace to attach to this box and then attach the brace to the shelf?
#52
Everything in Moderation
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Whoa Hameed. You're going fast here.
First off, sub box. That's a great sub box.
It's ported. You could also use sealed, would be a bit smaller.
Next, rear deck - deck is flimsy - no need to use board if you have a box. You can just mount the box on the raised part of the back of the trunk. It won't be that much different, and would be much much easier. Then you could face the sub UP, or REAR, depending on how you like the sound. I'll post some pics of what I did, but I don't recommend it. I put a lot of design work into getting mine to come out right, but it doesn't look it. You need to allow clearances for the sub excursion (movement of cone) if you mount to deck. Don't need to worry about it otherwise.
3/4" MDF board if you are going to make an underside board for the rear deck, or 3/4 plywood. You then must drill holes in the deck and put 1/4" or 3/8" bolts/nuts thru there, with big washers on BOTH sides of the board/deck combination, so nothing pulls through.
For the door baffles you use 1/2" MDF or the 3/4". Yes, a Jigsaw is the tool. BTW, Home Depot has MDF 2'x4' Project boards that are perfect for this purpose.
Jerry
First off, sub box. That's a great sub box.
![Thumb Up](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
Next, rear deck - deck is flimsy - no need to use board if you have a box. You can just mount the box on the raised part of the back of the trunk. It won't be that much different, and would be much much easier. Then you could face the sub UP, or REAR, depending on how you like the sound. I'll post some pics of what I did, but I don't recommend it. I put a lot of design work into getting mine to come out right, but it doesn't look it. You need to allow clearances for the sub excursion (movement of cone) if you mount to deck. Don't need to worry about it otherwise.
3/4" MDF board if you are going to make an underside board for the rear deck, or 3/4 plywood. You then must drill holes in the deck and put 1/4" or 3/8" bolts/nuts thru there, with big washers on BOTH sides of the board/deck combination, so nothing pulls through.
For the door baffles you use 1/2" MDF or the 3/4". Yes, a Jigsaw is the tool. BTW, Home Depot has MDF 2'x4' Project boards that are perfect for this purpose.
Jerry
#54
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This is my woof box that I hung from the rear deck. The thing weighs 60 lbs +. It needed the massive support brackets. I do NOT recommend doing this. It is SO much easier not to hang it and just let it sit under the stock hole.
I built the box with the lips to keep the woofer from hitting the deck.
I built the box with the lips to keep the woofer from hitting the deck.
#57
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You can separate the rear (back) part of the trunk liner with a utility knife. It then 1) makes a nice template to be able to shape the MDF amp board, and 2) you can cover the board with some adhesive and re-attach the carpet liner - before you mount the amps to it. Tricky tricky, eh? Looks factory when done.
What you see here is the BACK of it, with the carpet liner sticking out underneath.
What you see here is the BACK of it, with the carpet liner sticking out underneath.
#58
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Here's the back of the amp rack - this is what's behind the seats - can't see any of it, so no real need to be neat. THIS is where you would mount crossovers. You'll never need to touch them.
Note the braces that Paul was referring to. They are behind the rear seat.
Note the braces that Paul was referring to. They are behind the rear seat.
#59
EV ftw!!!
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Originally Posted by engin_ear
Whoa Hameed. You're going fast here.
![Smilie](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I spent about two hours last night -
- swapped out the HU/HVAC metal brackets with the plastic brackets that came with the dash kit
- installed the navigation system into the dash (and the HVAC) and it just looks so awesome - very OEM looking. The dash kit matches the face of the HVAC 100%. I can't believe how close the match is to my black dash. This is exactly what I have always wanted a nav to look like in my car.
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- removed the gauge cluster
- stopped by an audio shop and bought 3 sets of RCA cables, 4 gauge AMP install kit, another RCA cable for the rear view camera
Objectives for today:
1. Connect all wiring for the Navigation system other than the connections to the speakers - so the following:
- Speed sensor wire
- parking brake wire
- power and ground ofcourse
- grounding the spare port on the harness - this is the mod that allows you to change destinations while driving
- gps antenna
- rear view camera
Take the car out and test the nav. If I can get the nav working properly today, I will have achieved a major milestone.
![Smilie](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
All this wiring should not take more than 2 - 3 hours tops and most of that time would be spent on the install of the rear-view camera and the gps antenna as wires have to be run to the rear of the car and the camera needs to be installed in the trunk keyhole.
2. Place order for sub box
3. Stop by Home Depot and buy the MDF boards and Jigsaw and then cut the boards. By this time I will probably need a break and will continue tomorrow.
First off, sub box. That's a great sub box.
It's ported. You could also use sealed, would be a bit smaller.
Next, rear deck - deck is flimsy - no need to use board if you have a box. You can just mount the box on the raised part of the back of the trunk. It won't be that much different, and would be much much easier. Then you could face the sub UP, or REAR, depending on how you like the sound. I'll post some pics of what I did, but I don't recommend it. I put a lot of design work into getting mine to come out right, but it doesn't look it. You need to allow clearances for the sub excursion (movement of cone) if you mount to deck. Don't need to worry about it otherwise.
![Thumb Up](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
Next, rear deck - deck is flimsy - no need to use board if you have a box. You can just mount the box on the raised part of the back of the trunk. It won't be that much different, and would be much much easier. Then you could face the sub UP, or REAR, depending on how you like the sound. I'll post some pics of what I did, but I don't recommend it. I put a lot of design work into getting mine to come out right, but it doesn't look it. You need to allow clearances for the sub excursion (movement of cone) if you mount to deck. Don't need to worry about it otherwise.
Your design definitely looks like a lot of work was put into it.
Just puttiing the sub box on the floor of the trunk would probably save me a lot of time as I would not need to strengthen the rear parcel shelf. What are your recommendations for attaching the sub box in this location? I think the gas tank is under that spot is it not?
3/4" MDF board if you are going to make an underside board for the rear deck, or 3/4 plywood. You then must drill holes in the deck and put 1/4" or 3/8" bolts/nuts thru there, with big washers on BOTH sides of the board/deck combination, so nothing pulls through.
For the door baffles you use 1/2" MDF or the 3/4". Yes, a Jigsaw is the tool. BTW, Home Depot has MDF 2'x4' Project boards that are perfect for this purpose.
Jerry
For the door baffles you use 1/2" MDF or the 3/4". Yes, a Jigsaw is the tool. BTW, Home Depot has MDF 2'x4' Project boards that are perfect for this purpose.
Jerry
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If you don't mind, can you please pm me with your number. I won't bug you too much, I am just still very nervous about the amp wiring stuff. I think perhaps some 20 mins or so of your time will clear up my questions tomorrow when I attempt to tackle the amp and speaker wiring.
Thanks for posting all those pics of your install. It puts everything into perspective and gives the whole project so much more clarity!
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I didn't realize I would be able to install the crossovers on the side of the board that is facing the rear seats. I was under the impression that there is no space there for that.
My goal is to try to finish the majority of the work by the end of next weekend or the weekend after, then take the car to a local audio shop and get the system tuned (if that is needed).
Last edited by Hameed; 05-27-06 at 04:56 AM.
#60
EV ftw!!!
Thread Starter
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I just placed my order for the sub box and at the end of the order they had this very cool free gift where you could choose upto 4 magazine subscriptions for 1 full year for only $2.00 each.
So I selected the following magazines - Time ($77.00 for 56 issues), Popular Mechanics ($24.00 for 12 issues), Car & Driver ($22.00 for 12 issues) and Fast Company ($24.00 for 10 issues).
Anyway I get to the final page to key in my cc info to pay a total of $8.00 only for these magazines that would normally cost $147.00 and to my dismay find out this offer is only available to US residents!
So I selected the following magazines - Time ($77.00 for 56 issues), Popular Mechanics ($24.00 for 12 issues), Car & Driver ($22.00 for 12 issues) and Fast Company ($24.00 for 10 issues).
Anyway I get to the final page to key in my cc info to pay a total of $8.00 only for these magazines that would normally cost $147.00 and to my dismay find out this offer is only available to US residents!
![Crying](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/Peace.gif)