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Need help hooking up a AVIC-D1 by replacing a Nakamichi HU

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Old 05-29-06, 08:24 AM
  #76  
Hameed
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Originally Posted by Spyder78
1. Power cable from + side of battery-correct
2. cable above connected to plus side of capacitor-correct
3. cable from negative side of capacitor to power distribution block- This is not right. Post a pic or model of you distribution block. Usually u ground the negative to the chassis.
4. One connector from power distribution block to + side of sub amp-this is right
5. Second connector from power distribution block to + side of components amp-correct
6. rca connection from front speaker output on nav to input side of components amp-correct
7. rca connection from rear speaker output on nav to input side of components amp- correct
8. rca connection from sub speaker ooutput on nav to input side of sub amp- Correct
9. run wiring from components amp to crossovers and the to front speakers and tweeters- correct
10. run wiring from sub amp to subwoofer-correct

You also neglected to mention negatives for the amps. Make sure you ground them. when you are installing power for the amps disconnect the wire from the batt so that you dont have any shocks.
Thanks Spyder78!

I guess my huge ignorance of electronics is showing here! LOL

I don't get this part of your feedback
3. cable from negative side of capacitor to power distribution block- This is not right. Post a pic or model of you distribution block. Usually u ground the negative to the chassis.
I am thinking I need to make a circuit here - so battery - distribution block - capacitor - amps

But you said that is wrong and the negative side of the capacitor should be connected to ground. So my confusion now is how does the power going to the amp get affected by the capacitor if it is connected directly to the distribution block? I mean how is the capacitor providing it's benefit in this whole setup?

Stupid questions, but please help me understand the theory here. Thanks!

Second stupid question, I just checked my speaker components that I bought and no crossovers come with them. They are the Seas Excel 6.5 inch model http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/ind....11217&pid=985




These are my massive 3 inch tweeters - http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/ind...11217&pid=2139



How would I configure the amps to send their output correctly to the front speakers and tweeters when there are no crossovers?

Looking at this pic of the amp, there is a crossover select switch at the top left. So I guess I don't really need to use crossovers, but then how would I wire the tweeters and speakers from the amp?

Last edited by Hameed; 05-29-06 at 09:06 AM.
Old 05-29-06, 08:41 AM
  #77  
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Where are you going to mount 3 inch tweeters?
Old 05-29-06, 08:54 AM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by bitkahuna
Where are you going to mount 3 inch tweeters?
I will have to get those mounted by a professional - probably on the A-pillar.

These Ribbon tweeters have to be used with a passive crossover.
Old 05-29-06, 09:41 AM
  #79  
Spyder78
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each distribtion block is different essentially the distribution block is there to divide the power so that you can power more than one amp.


Distribution block are different there are some that have both a ground and positive coming out. Like the one right below. But the most common are the ones that u either put in the power and then get it to the amps or u put in the negative and then connect to your amps.



Old 05-29-06, 09:47 PM
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if i ever get a gs like i want to i am thinking about the AVICZ1
Old 05-30-06, 06:25 AM
  #81  
Lexis11
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Hameed,
Geesh I guess you got a lot done this weekend lol. COngrats on the install. I am very impressed you took this job on yourself and it looks very good to this point. let me know if you need anything else.
Old 05-30-06, 06:52 AM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by Lexis11
Hameed,
Geesh I guess you got a lot done this weekend lol. COngrats on the install. I am very impressed you took this job on yourself and it looks very good to this point. let me know if you need anything else.
I am beginning to feel overwhelmed by the amount of work remaining:

Here is what I think I can do myself:

1. Run power wiring from battery to rear of car
2. Attach mdf amp rack to rear of seats
3. Remove front door panels and make the speaker enclosures
4. Install sound deadening in the doors and the trunk


Here is what I am still clueless about and just don't have enough knowledge (and the corresponding confidence) to tackle by myself:

1. Hooking up and wiring all the amps - power in, speaker inputs in, speaker outputs out, setting up the amps without crossovers
2. Custom mounts for those massive tweeters
3. Tuning the system.
4. Mounting the subwoofer box
Old 05-30-06, 08:34 AM
  #83  
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pm sent.

Check your messages.
Old 05-30-06, 09:20 AM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by Spyder78
pm sent.

Check your messages.
Just replied! Thanks!
Old 05-30-06, 11:06 AM
  #85  
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hameed,

just wondering if you had time to make the bypass function work? i hoping you don't need to put relays for the over-ride.

any luck repositioning the gps antenna internally?
Old 05-30-06, 11:23 AM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by corkycal
hameed,

just wondering if you had time to make the bypass function work? i hoping you don't need to put relays for the over-ride.

any luck repositioning the gps antenna internally?
I actually replied before that I did get the bypass to work. I just plugged in a wire into the empty slot on the power wire harness on the nav and grounded the other side and it works flawlessy now. I can change destinations etc while in motion.

I will remove that black pad and just leave the antenna on the trunk lid for now. I don't want to have to redo all that wiring over again. I think it will not look too bad with just the GPS antenna on the trunk and not having that pad underneath as I have it now.
Old 05-30-06, 11:29 AM
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thanks for the update on the bypass. i must of not read it correctly because i thought the bypass didn't work and you had to make the connections better on the D1 harness (post #62).

what did you use for the extra wire, how thin is that bypass wire?

i agree, the black pad makes it too obvious. it's too bad that the manual states not to paint the gps antenna, it would look more sealth by painting it. i wonder how other car makers are painting their gps housing for the antenna?

Last edited by corkycal; 05-30-06 at 11:34 AM.
Old 05-30-06, 11:34 AM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by corkycal
thanks for the update on the bypass. i must of not read it correctly because i thought the bypass didn't work and you had to make the connections better on the D1 harness.

what did you use for the extra wire, how thin is that bypass wire?

i agree, the black pad makes it too obvious. it's too bad that the manual states not to paint the gps antenna, it would look more sealth by painting it. i wonder how other car makers are painting their gps housing for the antenna?
I just used a similar type of wire as the existing wiring - something I bought from Circuit city.

Yeah painting the gps antenna would be sweet to make it look more factory.
Old 05-30-06, 11:50 AM
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wire is prob 18 guage judging from my connections on the avic n1. The black pad on the gps antenna is a magnet and they say to put it with the antenna because it amplifies the signal and gives you better reception for the navi.
Old 05-30-06, 11:58 AM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by Spyder78
The black pad on the gps antenna is a magnet and they say to put it with the antenna because it amplifies the signal and gives you better reception for the navi.
Good to know! I guess I will be leaving mine there.


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