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Need help hooking up a AVIC-D1 by replacing a Nakamichi HU

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Old 05-30-06, 05:19 PM
  #91  
GS3Tek
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Wow, nice work Hameed

Just for your information when I had my pioneer nav, I had the gps antenna in the back deck closest to the rear window and my windows are tinted (without having to hook up the speed sensor) and the navigation worked fine
Old 05-30-06, 09:50 PM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by Spyder78
The black pad on the gps antenna is a magnet and they say to put it with the antenna because it amplifies the signal and gives you better reception for the navi.
Not sure how a magnet amplifies the signal.

Hameed - moving the antenna from your trunk lid to the back shelf should be only a tiny distance, right?
Old 05-31-06, 09:33 AM
  #93  
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thats wat it say in the manual. I am just repeating it. But the thing is not the distance but the signal getting thru the window and the tint. But I know that it will work on the rear deck just fine. I wouldnt leave that antenna outside. If someone ever, god forbid, wanted to vandalize your car ripping off the antenna is $200 damage.
Old 05-31-06, 10:07 AM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by GS3Tek
Wow, nice work Hameed

Just for your information when I had my pioneer nav, I had the gps antenna in the back deck closest to the rear window and my windows are tinted (without having to hook up the speed sensor) and the navigation worked fine
Thanks GS3Tek, when I read my initial posts about this upgrade, I realize how little I knew then and how much more I have learned since then by getting my fingers dirty.

Thanks for the feedback regarding the antenna. I guess I will reposition the antenna to the rear deck.
Originally Posted by Spyder78
thats wat it say in the manual. I am just repeating it. But the thing is not the distance but the signal getting thru the window and the tint. But I know that it will work on the rear deck just fine. I wouldnt leave that antenna outside. If someone ever, god forbid, wanted to vandalize your car ripping off the antenna is $200 damage.
Yes, the potential vandalization issue did occur to me. I will relocate it to the deck. Thanks!

I don't have Tae Kwon Do class tonight, so plan to spend some time on the car (maybe not all of this).

- run the amp wiring from the battery to the rear of the car
- install the amp rack
- run the speaker wiring through the car from the rear to the front
- run the wire for the remote amp turn on from the HU to the rear.

I want to attemp to finish the parts that I can do that don't require custom fabrication such as the speaker baffles for the front speakers and the mounting of the tweeters.

Someone on www.the12volt.com recommended to do this for the speaker and amp connections since I don't plan on installing crossovers:

Since you have no passive crossovers for your speakers, set the crossovers in your deck to high pass around 80-100 Hz (about where you'll crossover the sub)front and rear- this will be your starting point.

Set the crossovers on the 4 channel amp to around 2.5 kHz for starters, with the tweeters on high pass and the midbass drivers on low pass. A cd with multiple test tones will help you locate your crossover points, as well as setting gain. Just run your speaker wire from you amp directly to your speakers.
Regarding his first point - I have absolutely no idea how to do that. I have also gone through the manual and don't see anything like that. Here is a pdf version of the operation manual - http://www.prudensconsulting.com/doc...ion_Manual.pdf . Maybe one of you gurus knows how to do this.....

Regarding his second point, anybody here know how to do that?


With Spyder78's help on the amp wiring, I should be done this weekend, then I can drop the car off at an audio shop for the custom work next week and be able to enjoy the car soon after that!
Old 05-31-06, 10:23 AM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by Hameed
Regarding his first point - I have absolutely no idea how to do that. I have also gone through the manual and don't see anything like that. Here is a pdf version of the operation manual - http://www.prudensconsulting.com/doc...ion_Manual.pdf . Maybe one of you gurus knows how to do this.....
By 'deck' I think he meant the amp, not the head unit. On your own pic there's the controls he's referrig to ('XO', etc.) for front and rear. That looks to be the right ones.


Last edited by bitkahuna; 05-31-06 at 10:26 AM.
Old 05-31-06, 10:29 AM
  #96  
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Yes, but he was referring to the sub crossover and that does not make any sense as the sub has it's own pre amp line out from the deck, so presumably is already crossed over........
Old 05-31-06, 10:45 AM
  #97  
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What is this round section on the baffle Jerry? Did you make any box for the speaker itself behind the speaker coils? I have heard that making some sort of box for the speaker makes it sound better as the background metal of the door tends to make the sound "tinny".





What about this black circular section around the speaker - did you have to make this yourself as well? On my speakers, I don't see this section...

Old 05-31-06, 10:56 AM
  #98  
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hameed creation of the mounts for the speakers is easy. Invest in a dremel and go buy some 1/4 inch plywood. they sell in home depot for like $5 for a lenght of 4x5 feet you need 2 of them in case you make a mistake. I made them already for my front and rear doors took me like an hour for the first and bout 30 minutes for each of the rest. They dont look too good but they serve their purpose. I'll post some pics when I start my install next week. I'll look into the situation with the wiring of the amp and I'll let you know in a lil bit.



I used these things




I put them into the speaker mount and than the speaker and mounted them down. I created the effect of a box and no resonance thru the door.

Last edited by Spyder78; 05-31-06 at 11:01 AM.
Old 05-31-06, 11:01 AM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by Spyder78
hameed creation of the mounts for the speakers is easy. Invest in a dremel and go buy some 1/4 inch plywood. they sell in home depot for like $5 for a lenght of 4x5 feet you need 2 of them in case you make a mistake. I made them already for my front and rear doors took me like an hour for the first and bout 30-45 minutes for the rest. They dont look too good but they serve their purpose. I'll post some pics when I start my install next week. I'll look into the situation with the wiring of the amp and I'll let you know in a lil bit.
Oh I was referring to the circular section on top of the baffle itself.

I already bought mdf board and a jigsaw and can cut out the baffle itself. I was just wondering about the thin circular section at the top. I guess I will have to cut out those two as well from the mdf.......
Old 05-31-06, 11:04 AM
  #100  
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Originally Posted by Spyder78
I used these things




I put them into the speaker mount and than the speaker and mounted them down. I created the effect of a box and no resonance thru the door.
I guess I should get a set of these.
Old 05-31-06, 11:08 AM
  #101  
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they are cheap go onto crutchfield.com and look for speaker baffles.
Old 05-31-06, 11:11 AM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by Hameed
Yes, but he was referring to the sub crossover and that does not make any sense as the sub has it's own pre amp line out from the deck, so presumably is already crossed over........
OK... the quote you posted says nothing about a sub though.
Old 05-31-06, 11:18 AM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by bitkahuna
OK... the quote you posted says nothing about a sub though.
Well in this first part of his feedback - he mentions the sub (perhaps I just don't understand what he is saying that's all)

Since you have no passive crossovers for your speakers, set the crossovers in your deck to high pass around 80-100 Hz (about where you'll crossover the sub)front and rear- this will be your starting point.
Old 05-31-06, 12:42 PM
  #104  
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I think he's saying if you're letting 80-100Hz and BELOW to the sub (I think the sub itself might have a cutoff on it, or maybe you can set that from the Pioneer), then you might as well chop off that same range from going to the speakers.
Old 06-01-06, 01:53 PM
  #105  
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Hameed,

If you have reception problems with your antenna because of window tint try using the far right corner of the dash, use some velcro and you should get good reception through the windshield (assuming it's not tinted).

Last edited by Indio; 06-01-06 at 02:09 PM.


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