rwheelz

iTrader: (2)

can't seem to find how other people did this by searching. I am adding a new deck, and an amp that powers the front door speakers (JL audio 6.5" components) and a JL sub in place of the factory unit. The rear door speakers can run off the deck, but how do I get wiring run into the doors for the components? I want it to look clean and don't want a hire hanging there!

Lexbox

Pull off the door panel. Then pull carpeting away from the kickpod and very carefully route a coathanger through the stock rubber hose carrying the wires into the doors. Once that is finished electrical tape the speaker wire to the coat hanger and pull through. Done. I just got done doing the same thing installing my XR650's in the doors.

rwheelz

iTrader: (2)

A coat hanger NICE. I was trying to think of something thin yet strong enough, and still pliable to make it through those bends.

Installing the full system tomorrow (and knowing me, probably into Sunday)-

Eclipse AV8022 DVD deck
JBL 300x4 amp
JL 6.5 components with crossovers
JL 10" sub
Stinger 150A breaker for the battery line
Nice power distribution block, etc

I also have a set of Pioneer 5 1/4" might throw them in the rear doors if they fit. I am running a video cable for a reverse cam, but haven't actually found the right cam yet.

Does anyone know of an alternative to dynamat, that won't stink like pavement but will sound-deaden the car? I figure I have to take most of the interior out anyway, might as well do this now.

jtgs400

iTrader: (1)

Just a note but if you're not planning to cut into the stock speaker pods or making a baffle board for the doors you won't be able to install the midbass driver.

rwheelz

iTrader: (2)

well, I was hoping a dremel would be enough to get them in there....?

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

Um...I prefer not to use any object to get the wire through myself because you can run into the risk of damaging the wires that area already in there. To run the wire through the door, do what everyone else said and pull out the carpet, kickpanel, etc. Once you got there, you can Pull the rubber tube/hose/whatever off. You can then safely pull the wire through the hose and into the door. Once you're done, just push the rubber hose back in.

rwheelz

iTrader: (2)

right on thanks! and for installing the front door speakers, is it as simple as dremeling out the appropriate size hole for my mids in the existing plastic?

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

You'll have some pretty big gaps. I dremeled mine before just because I couldn't live without music. No midbass output from my mids because of the leaks, Overall it was a mess so I decided to make wooden baffles that are much stronger and can house my 6.5". In fact, I was in the middle of making one just now!

Not to mention, the stock plastic enclosure will resonate. You can possibly suffer the loss of some midbass output, midrange clarity, etc. Soooo...either take your chances or get the baffles made at a shop.

rwheelz

iTrader: (2)

damn it well where can I buy mounts/baffles then? I didn't account for this, I thought I was going to bolt the JL 6.5s in the doors with ease.

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

make some yourself or get a shop to do it. Should be around $50 or so from a shop.

rwheelz

iTrader: (2)

got a pic of what I am making? if they are wood, I can probably manage between the dremel and a jig saw. I found a thread on here once with pics but can't seem to find it again.

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

Yes it's wood.

This is not a GS, but you get the idea:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...g/DSC02311.jpg

Basically its the same as the stock baffle, except you're making it with wood. MDF is easy to use and will shape easier than regular plywood. I myself use Baltic Birch Plywood because it's even stronger, wont get all mushy when its wet, it's lighter, but it cost more. And plus, Home depot doesn't have small sheets of MDF.

engin_ear

iTrader: (1)

Coat hanger = bad. You can do some serious damage to insulation in wire harnesses and cause intermittent shorts. Not fun. You can also use heavy fishing line, a wire tie, etc. If you do use a coat hanger, get 5-minute epoxy, make a ball on the end and let it harden. Then it wont gouge the wiring.

rwheelz

iTrader: (2)

good info, thanks for the help guys! I will have pics of the install up shortly.

Lexbox

I used coat hangers all the time when I put in stereo for almost a year without problems. No doubt it WILL cut wires if not used properly. Other guys in the shop would do it about once a month but I never have. I couldnt do what GSteg said and pull through with my hand because I ran 12ga speaker wire through and there was little room left. I popped the rubber plugs from each side of the car like GSteg said and pushed the stock wires to the bottom and carefully ran the coat hanger on the top so I had the best chance. The epoxy is a great idea too btw. gl and be careful no matter what you use.