My new set up - no 56k
01-06-07, 05:06 PM
#16
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
01-06-07, 05:08 PM
#17
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
PureDrifter - When built the box, I wasn't planning on posting pics, so no pics of the enclosure.
Last edited by vin 78; 01-09-07 at 09:04 PM.
01-06-07, 05:11 PM
#18
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
This are what I have in mind....
Upper trunk/rear deck cover
New face plate
iPod trim panel in center armrest
I hope I could finish before school begins at the end of the month.
Upper trunk/rear deck cover
New face plate
iPod trim panel in center armrest
I hope I could finish before school begins at the end of the month.
01-09-07, 09:03 PM
#20
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
I decided to get out of the trunk and work on the h/u faceplate.
Eclipse AVN6600 bolted on...
Protection...
Scrap 1/2" MDF...
Measure from each edge to the radio...
Transfer to MDF (Be sure to use the factory radio's face plate for a template)...
Ruff cut...
Use double sided tape to tape a straight edge onto the MDF....
Cut with router...
Finished...
Eclipse AVN6600 bolted on...
Protection...
Scrap 1/2" MDF...
Measure from each edge to the radio...
Transfer to MDF (Be sure to use the factory radio's face plate for a template)...
Ruff cut...
Use double sided tape to tape a straight edge onto the MDF....
Cut with router...
Finished...
01-09-07, 09:04 PM
#21
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Chamfer (I think that's how its spelled) 45 degree cut, just for looks...
Since the it tapers off behind the radio, I have to make it thinner, but still allow an area where the plate bolts onto the radio...
Mock up...
Problem, the arms that swings out sticks out too much
I'll have to modify the face plate...
After some filing and sanding it fits Pretty good...
Paint...
2 layers of primer...
Color coat. This is my 3rd "mist" layer out of 6 total, its still tacky so the should the sheen should be duller...
I just sprayed my 6 mist of color, and i'll let it dry overnight. I'll mount and post it tomorrow.
Since the it tapers off behind the radio, I have to make it thinner, but still allow an area where the plate bolts onto the radio...
Mock up...
Problem, the arms that swings out sticks out too much
I'll have to modify the face plate...After some filing and sanding it fits Pretty good...
Paint...
2 layers of primer...
Color coat. This is my 3rd "mist" layer out of 6 total, its still tacky so the should the sheen should be duller...
I just sprayed my 6 mist of color, and i'll let it dry overnight. I'll mount and post it tomorrow.
Last edited by vin 78; 01-10-07 at 06:35 PM.
01-10-07, 04:36 PM
#23
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Update
After letting the paint dry overnight, here's the results...
Ghetto brackets. Notice that I enlarged the radio mounting holes so the radio would sit back further.
Epoxy...
Attached...
Installed pics...
Ghetto brackets. Notice that I enlarged the radio mounting holes so the radio would sit back further.
Epoxy...
Attached...
Installed pics...
Last edited by vin 78; 01-10-07 at 05:40 PM.
01-10-07, 05:41 PM
#24
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
01-10-07, 06:12 PM
#26
Lexus Champion
Wow that looks AMAZING. I bookmarked this thread so when I eventually get to installing my navi unit in my LS, I'm going to do it the same way! The problem is I don't have the tools to make as precision cuts as you do... any suggestions to get around that? I'm using a jig saw and a dremel. I use the dremel to make circular cuts, and the jigsaw works okay to make straight cuts... I undercut and then pull out the dremel and sandpaper and try to make them as straight as possible.
The way you did your drunk is just absolutely spectacular. I want to do a setup very similar. I wish the LS didn't have the damn gas tank back there! So I'm going to try and make a corner box that will go into the wheel well somewhat.
Couple of questions: did you spraypaint the primer on the faceplate while it was around the navi unit? How much can this cover? E.g. does your faceplate need to be within a few mm perfect, or can you get away with say 1/4 inch gap.
Also, does your navi unit have time correction? This is a huge thing for me.. all the Pioneer units don't seem to have it!
I'm going to ask you more questions about fiberglassing for my trunk project.
The way you did your drunk is just absolutely spectacular. I want to do a setup very similar. I wish the LS didn't have the damn gas tank back there! So I'm going to try and make a corner box that will go into the wheel well somewhat.
Couple of questions: did you spraypaint the primer on the faceplate while it was around the navi unit? How much can this cover? E.g. does your faceplate need to be within a few mm perfect, or can you get away with say 1/4 inch gap.
Also, does your navi unit have time correction? This is a huge thing for me.. all the Pioneer units don't seem to have it!
I'm going to ask you more questions about fiberglassing for my trunk project.
01-10-07, 06:56 PM
#27
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Wow that looks AMAZING. I bookmarked this thread so when I eventually get to installing my navi unit in my LS, I'm going to do it the same way! The problem is I don't have the tools to make as precision cuts as you do... any suggestions to get around that? I'm using a jig saw and a dremel. I use the dremel to make circular cuts, and the jigsaw works okay to make straight cuts... I undercut and then pull out the dremel and sandpaper and try to make them as straight as possible.
The way you did your drunk is just absolutely spectacular. I want to do a setup very similar. I wish the LS didn't have the damn gas tank back there! So I'm going to try and make a corner box that will go into the wheel well somewhat.
Couple of questions: did you spraypaint the primer on the faceplate while it was around the navi unit? How much can this cover? E.g. does your faceplate need to be within a few mm perfect, or can you get away with say 1/4 inch gap.
Also, does your navi unit have time correction? This is a huge thing for me.. all the Pioneer units don't seem to have it!
I'm going to ask you more questions about fiberglassing for my trunk project.
The way you did your drunk is just absolutely spectacular. I want to do a setup very similar. I wish the LS didn't have the damn gas tank back there! So I'm going to try and make a corner box that will go into the wheel well somewhat.
Couple of questions: did you spraypaint the primer on the faceplate while it was around the navi unit? How much can this cover? E.g. does your faceplate need to be within a few mm perfect, or can you get away with say 1/4 inch gap.
Also, does your navi unit have time correction? This is a huge thing for me.. all the Pioneer units don't seem to have it!
I'm going to ask you more questions about fiberglassing for my trunk project.
For making accurate cuts, a router with a straight edge is pretty much as close as it gets. You could get away with a jigsaw, but you will need to do some sanding with a sand block (to keep it straight). I don't recommend making accurate cuts with a Dremel, unless you have the circle attachment. I'd rather use a jigsaw for straight cuts.
I painted the primer and paint on while it was out of the car. That way I could get all the corners. As far as the paint thickness its pretty much less then a human hair, so don't worry too much about the paint buildup, as long as you fine sand in between steps
For the faceplate, I usually cut within 1/16" (using the router), anything closer then that you will run into the risk of a stuck face place then the face plate sticks out.
I'm not too sure what time correction is, please explain.
Good luck with your install.
01-10-07, 08:18 PM
#29
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
. That picture in my avatar isn't me, lol 
01-10-07, 10:22 PM
#30
Lexus Champion
Can I reiterate how amazing a job you did?
Yeah I have the circle attachment with the dremel. Thats why I like it for circular cuts. I guess I'm going to have to invest in a router and a table. Thats like a good $300 bucks. I guess its worth it in the end.
I was hoping the paint thickness would be greater, so I could get away with less accurate cuts. Maybe I can use bondo in that situation?
Time correction in the deck allows you to correct for the fact that you're sitting much closer to the left speaker than the right. It typically either lets you specify delays in miliseconds, or it lets you input the distance from your ears to each speaker in the car and then calculates the appropriate adjustment, so the sweet spot isn't in the center of the car, but closer to where you're sitting.
Got any fiberglassing tips or tutorials?
Yeah I have the circle attachment with the dremel. Thats why I like it for circular cuts. I guess I'm going to have to invest in a router and a table. Thats like a good $300 bucks. I guess its worth it in the end.
I was hoping the paint thickness would be greater, so I could get away with less accurate cuts. Maybe I can use bondo in that situation?
Time correction in the deck allows you to correct for the fact that you're sitting much closer to the left speaker than the right. It typically either lets you specify delays in miliseconds, or it lets you input the distance from your ears to each speaker in the car and then calculates the appropriate adjustment, so the sweet spot isn't in the center of the car, but closer to where you're sitting.
Got any fiberglassing tips or tutorials?
Thanks for the nice words.
For making accurate cuts, a router with a straight edge is pretty much as close as it gets. You could get away with a jigsaw, but you will need to do some sanding with a sand block (to keep it straight). I don't recommend making accurate cuts with a Dremel, unless you have the circle attachment. I'd rather use a jigsaw for straight cuts.
I painted the primer and paint on while it was out of the car. That way I could get all the corners. As far as the paint thickness its pretty much less then a human hair, so don't worry too much about the paint buildup, as long as you fine sand in between steps
For the faceplate, I usually cut within 1/16" (using the router), anything closer then that you will run into the risk of a stuck face place then the face plate sticks out.
I'm not too sure what time correction is, please explain.
Good luck with your install.
For making accurate cuts, a router with a straight edge is pretty much as close as it gets. You could get away with a jigsaw, but you will need to do some sanding with a sand block (to keep it straight). I don't recommend making accurate cuts with a Dremel, unless you have the circle attachment. I'd rather use a jigsaw for straight cuts.
I painted the primer and paint on while it was out of the car. That way I could get all the corners. As far as the paint thickness its pretty much less then a human hair, so don't worry too much about the paint buildup, as long as you fine sand in between steps
For the faceplate, I usually cut within 1/16" (using the router), anything closer then that you will run into the risk of a stuck face place then the face plate sticks out.
I'm not too sure what time correction is, please explain.
Good luck with your install.