Suneet

So you found the door lock/unlock cables on the driver's side? That's interesting because all the things online say that they are on the passenger side. This is going to be a fun install. I've got all my wires into the cabin now.

Was the remote start part the same as the cables mentioned online, ie, all the ignition wires?

akxx

iTrader: (1)

Yes--all lock/unlock arm/disarm are on US driver's side. Once you tear apart the carpeting by the driver's left ankle, you'll see where 3 wiring harnesses come into the cabin from the driver's door.

The wiring colors for the ignition, remote start, etc. were all correct.

akxx

iTrader: (1)

Suneet--almost forgot: if you live in colder climate (unlikely in Cali, eh?), it may be worth wiring in rear defrost. I tapped into the rear defrost wire from the back of the a/c control unit, and then set the DEI unit for latched negative trigger--when remote started, it engages the rear defrost for 10 minutes. Awesome. You can turn this feature on/off from the remote so it doesn't go on at every start if you don't want.

Suneet

I'm splicing into that black cable that is the tach wire, and I confirmed that it is the correct wire with a wiring diagram, but when I measure the voltage across that wire I'm not getting readings that vary properly with the RPMs of the vehicle...

Suneet

Okay, so I think I spliced into the right wire, I was just expecting diferent voltage readings.

With the car off, it reads 0v of course, when you start it, at idle RPM it reads near 13 V, and as you rev the engine, it drops down to 12.3 or something depending on RPM.

I was expecting to see something between 0-6 V as per the DEI manual.

akxx

iTrader: (1)

I had the same issue--didn't get the voltage I was expecting. However, in the "tach learn" mode the DEI brain learned the signal almost instantly. Will work fine.

Suneet

Do you remember if the door trigger cable was in the correct spot and correct cable?

Also, did your unit have a "remote start activation input" cable that seems to connect to a switch that connects to ground? I'm not sure what to do with that cable... Were the parking light cables in the correct spot and correct color?

akxx

iTrader: (1)

I didn't use the door trigger cable (hence didn't use the DEI dome supervision feature)

As for RSAI, I don't recall clearly--is this the hood switch? If so, I didn't use it. Not sure if it needs to be left open (tape up the end) or grounded. I think grounded disables the remote start.

I think the parking light wire was correct--easy enough to check with your test light.

Suneet

I'm having trouble trying to isolate wires.

For example, I've pulled the trunk open switch out. I stuck my positive probe inone of the wires, and my black probe to ground. I opened the switch. Didn't register a change in voltage, but the trunk opened.

What am I doing wrong?

akxx

iTrader: (1)

The things with DVMs is they aren't as instantaneous in responding to transient voltages as a test light. Try holding the switch open longer to see if that gives you a reading (I think it runs the relay as long as it's open, rather than a quick click). One of the wires (i think there's only 2?) should definitely go to ground when the switch is hit.

Suneet

Thanks a lot for your help. The wire for the trunk release was easy, and I got that working.

The two things I need help with are the parking lights, and the door locks.

I'm going to go get a test light becuase I don't think this meter is responding fast enough.

How did you get to your parkign lights? The DEI printout suggests its in a black harness that is on the right side of the steering column. Its pretty tough to get in there. IT also says its next to a yellow airbag harness. Is this where you tapped into it from? I've taken outall the trim pieces, the only thing that is remaining is the duct/vent for the heater.

Suneet

Actually, I'm not really sure how to get to the starter and ignition wires either. I pulled out the ignition trim piece, and removed the ignition light.. and there isn't access to anything.

Suneet

I just picked up an analog multi-meter to catch those instantaneous voltages. Still don't know how to get to everything though. I see three harnesses coming from the door into the cabin. I'm testing by taking the harness out, using the multimeter one pin at a time and trying the door lock.

Suneet

I believe I found the wire that triggers the lock/unlock.

It is a blue/black wire in the blue wiring harness that comes from the driver's door into the cabin.

So now I just connect this cable to my lock/unlock cable? I'll try that, but I thought I needed to identify which was the ground cable for the lock function.

akxx

iTrader: (1)

You do need to remove the duct that runs just in front of your knees. It takes some twisting, but it's gotta come out to get to the parking light and ignition wires.