akxx

iTrader: (1)

You don't need to find a dedicated ground--just the wire that becomes ground ONLY when the LOCK is pressed.

Once you find the proper wire, I think the remaining 3 wires are in the same bundle.

akxx

iTrader: (1)

Suneet--to clarify, to find each of the 4 wires you're looking for: lock/unlock arm/disarm:

Each of these wires will become ground ONLY as long as the button/key is held in that position...once you release the corresponding button, the wire is no longer ground. Think of it as looking for a latched ground wire, dependent on which button/key position is pressed.

I'm not certain that the wires will go ground if the harness is unplugged, but if you found it that way, please post here.

Suneet

Thanks for clarifying what to look for. So the process is still tough because there are 3 harnesses that come from the door.

Removing the blue harness stops power locks from working all together: when you press the b utton on the drivers side door, it does nothing, and when you turn the key, it only locks/unlocks that door

So this seemed like the bes tplace to start. However, I can't find the cables becuase in the blue harness there are only two cables that show +12v when plugged in and nothing is happening.

When I press lock/unlock, nothing happens to these wires.

So I'm confused..

akxx

iTrader: (1)

I don't think the wires of interest necessarily show +12 when not activated--they are kind of "floating".

I suspected as much from your unplugging the harnesses--I think they need to remain plugged in. That's why the needle-style probe is so helpful: you can test the wires without stripping the insulation back.

I may not be able to get to it this weekend, but if you still don't have it sorted out I can try to see if I can get my car apart enough to find the proper door wires.

Suneet

Okay, after much investigation, I decided to try what DEI recoomended, and it worked!

Turns out my 94 might be a little different than your 91. I used the yellow-green and green wires on the blue connector on the PASSENGER side and my locks now work.

I just need to wire the arm and disarm cables now, get the parking lights.. and then I'm ready to attack the remote start.

Suneet

Yeah akxx, I realized that, I was using the probes with the harnesses plugged in to see what they were reading.. I don't know, maybe my meter wasn't sensitive enough to register the differences? Not sure.

The wires that I tried. I couldn't get any reading off of them either.. I just tried attaching them becuase the DEI manual said so, so I figured I had nothing to lose.. and it worked.

akxx

iTrader: (1)

Well whaddya know--the 94 and 90 had different wiring. Or you found more accurate wiring info than I had (I used DEI's wiring guide and Bulldog's--both corroborated with each other).

I know for a fact that the wiring listed for 1990 LS is not correct!

You are so close now Suneet!

Suneet

Allright, I finally got it!

It turns out all the DEI wiring info is correct, and it is also available at www.the12volt.com (click on vehicle wiring).

I got my remote start working. One of my friends helped me and we've been at it all night long.

I haven't been able to test out all the alarm features, so I'm not sure those are all working. I also didn't wire in all the alarm inputs (like hood trigger, trunk trigger).. but I did wire the door trigger.

My power tilt isn't working anymore, but I think I may have just blown a fuse.

I'm gonna get all the body panels back in and see how it goes.

akxx

iTrader: (1)

Good to know that the wiring for the 94 LS is correct. Since I know the published wires for the 90 LS are NOT all correct, I wonder if the wires listed for the 94 would be more accurate for the 90?

Suneet--how did the tach learn go--just fine, right?

Suneet

Hey Akxx, I haven't done the tach learnign yet.. I'm still wiring stuff in my car so I keep disconnecting the battery, etc. I will do it as soon as it is all put together.

Thanks a lot for all your help.

I think I have the alarm just the way I want it. My stock alarm works (it wasn't working for a while), so I'm happy about that. I've got my trunk release, remote start, and keyless entry.

The only thing I think that I left out was wiring the factory "disalarm" wire to the Clifford alarm so when someone unlocks the car with a key, the clifford alarm doesn't trigger. I still have to test this out a bit. I was getting intermittent results.

Suneet

There is one thing I noticed. The reccomended door trigger signal isn't a door trigger. Its just always positive, with the doors opened or the doors closed. Not sure what the door trigger is just yet.

akxx

iTrader: (1)

Are you wanting to use the door trigger for the alarm or dome supervision?

Suneet

I want to use the door trigger for the alarm. My remote is a 2-way paging model so I can see when the door is open on the remote.

Additionally, when someone unlocks the door with a key, I want the alarm toknow it has been disarmed. Right now it still thinks it is armed, and so I have to unarm it and rearm it again if I used a key.

Suneet

Hey Akxx,

I've got my remote start working.. but when the car turns on, the climate control does not come on. Neither do the headlights or the display. My stereo turns on b/c its fused to the acc, but I'm not sure why my climate control won't come on.


What did I wire wrong?

Also, did you get the anti-grind circuitry working? Mine doesn't work, so if I accidentally turn the key after I've started the car... it grinds. I think you have to wire inside the key cylinder... I wasn't sure how to get in there.

akxx

iTrader: (1)

I didn't use anti-grind, since I never had a problem with grinding in my previous cars with remote-start.

There are 2 accessory wires in the ignition harness--did you wire both in? This may explain why your climate control isn't working. Also, only the parking lights should come on (default for DEI is to blink every second, but I set mine for constant on.)