Suneet

Are there two accessory wires in the harness as well? I'll check to see.

Yeah right now my parking lights flash. How did you set it to not do that? Did you have to use a bitwriter?

Also, if I wire that second acc wire will my instrument cluster turn on now? Or is that still triggered by the key?

And do you know if it is possible to set it up so that if I unlock the door with a key, my DEI alarm disarms as well?

treimche

Anti grind is the same as starter kill. You don't do it inside the key cylinder. If you are using a DEI like it sounds here, they have a diagram in the install guide how to hook that up. Some of them have a external relay, but some have that relay built in to the relay pack, it just depends on which model you have.

akxx

iTrader: (1)

Suneet--you don't need bitwriter to change the parking light flash. Do you have the install manual? It goes through the programming steps. If you don't have it, let me know.

As for instrument cluster coming on, yes...but it will be on whatever dimmer setting you have for when your headlights are on. You should definitely have power to your climate control if you have properly tapped into both ignition wires. In total, you should have: 2 ignition wires, 1 accessory wire, and 1 starter wire.

I didn't wire an alarm, but it may be possible to to disarm the DEI wire via key if the DEI allows for a negative input to disarm--you would just need to tap into the factory disarm and then bridge to the DEI. You need to see if the DEI alarm allows for an 'external' disarm pulse.

akxx

iTrader: (1)

Suneet--to clarify, there are 2 ignition wires, only 1 accessory wire. However, both ignition wires need to be connected to get all the accessories to work. Sounds confusing due to the technical terms that the wiring guides use, but trust me.

Suneet

I may have only connected one ignition wire.. I'll check. But I don't think thats possible becuase I think both ignition wires need to be connected to even start the car.

akxx

iTrader: (1)

No--I think 1 ignition and the starter wire are needed to start. The other ignition, ironically, controls accessories I believe.

Yes, the nomenclature is confusing.

akxx

iTrader: (1)

BTW, off topic, but have you taken the PC7424 to your car yet?

Suneet

Hey Akxx,

I was out of town this weekend so I didn't have time to take a look at the wiring.

I just went ahead and did: I have two wires not connected:

The Red/White wire, called "30A High Current 12V Input"

and the green wire: "Starter Input from Ignition (Key Side)"

I'm not sure what I'm supposed to connect the red/white wire to. There were already two other REd wires that had to be connected to a 12V input. Maybe I need to do the same with this one?

Also, for the Green wire the manual says:

"For anti grind or starter kill attach this wire to the key side of the starter wire for anti grind and for the starter kill to be active"

What is the key side of the starter wire?

Where I tapped into these wires, the wires are at a harness and are different colors on either side. I've connected the starter wire from the remote start module to the starter wire on one side of the harness. Am I supposed to to connect this anti-grind wire to the other side of the harness?

Thanks..

I have one more issue actually.. My door trigger. I couldn't find the right wire for it. I'll have to try again, but when I wired it, the alarm thought my doors were always open. Until I get this door trigger wired up, I can't program my alarm.

Also, did you get your factory horn to work with the alarm? Mine doesn't seem to work.

Suneet

This is one of the links I'm using for wiring info:

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...283&type=Alarm

I connected all the wires that this link mentions for ignition related stuff..

What am I missing?

akxx

iTrader: (1)

"30A High Current 12V Input" should go to +12V, which I think I tied into the "Constant 12V+" from the ignition wire harness. (Supposedly the White/Blue wire according to the wiring diagram on 12volt)

"Starter Input from Ignition (Key Side)": Here's the way this works: In order to enable the DEI starter anti-grind feature, you're essentially cutting the car's starter wire, with this one going to the "upstream towards the key", and the other DEI starter wire going "downstream toward the starter"--both DEI wires would essentially "intercept" the factory starter wire and complete the circuit only when the DEI brain allows it to (i.e. when the DEI brain does not have 'control' of the remote start and hands it over back to the key).
However, I didn't use this feature, as I have never had a grind issue with past remote starts. So what I did was combine the 2 DEI starter wires together and tap them into the factory starter wire without cutting the factory wire.

Again, I didn't use door trigger since I didn't use dome supervision. Door trigger should go ground (-) when the rubber plunger switch on the door jamb is released.

akxx

iTrader: (1)

Are you sure you connected BOTH factory ignition wires?

akxx

iTrader: (1)

Forgot to add: I think the ignition-related wires were correct on 12volt.com, however, I don't trust the door-related ones. You will need to probe to find the negative trigger door trigger with the harnesses STILL PLUGGED IN. This is where the needle-style multimeter probes are worth their weight in gold, so you don't have to peel back wire insulation one at a time to tap into the wire you're trying to probe.

Suneet

Hey Akxx,

Thanks for the quick replies.

My issue with grind isn't that the remote start grinds.. but sometimes I remote start the car, and I come into the car, and I start the car again because I'm stupid and a slave to habit.

I'm positive I have both ignition wires connected. Perhaps this 12v input wire not being connected is the reason I'm not getting everything to turn on.

If you didn't use a door trigger wire, how did you program your alarm? The manual says a door needs to be open etc, so I'm assuming I need to have that wire connected before I can get any programming.

What exactly is dome superivision? Is it just that when the dome light turns on and the system is armed, the alarm turns on?

Also, I'm thinking about installing the proximity and glass break sensor that DEI sells seperately. They are like 30 bucks a pop on eBay and might be a worth addition to the alarm.

And any luck on getting your factory horn to work with the DEI alarm?

I bought a set of those needle nose voltmeters like you said. I bought an analog set. I'll go back in and start probing for the door trigger wire.

akxx

iTrader: (1)

Don't worry--if this is your first remote start, you'll soon get in the habit of not grinding!

Remember--I didn't have to find the door trigger because I only installed the remote start, not alarm.

I chose not to use the factory horn for confirmation beeps because I find them annoying when at home (they're useful in parking lots, though). Sorry I can't help you there.

Good luck finding the trigger--with your new probe setup you should be able to find it quickly.

And to followup--did you find the proper factory alarm arm/disarm wires?

Suneet

I couldn't find the factory alarm/disalarm wires. It didn't matter really becuase the DEI unit doesn't have a disarm/arm input.... it arms only with the remote, or if you setup passive arming, and from what I see there is no way that it will disarm when given a signal.

So as it is rigth now, since I don't have the door trigger wired, if I unlock the door with a key, the factory alarm disarms, but the DEI alarm is still active. When you slam the door shut, the shock sensor activates and the car stars shrieking.

Since I have a shared parking setup irght now, and the neighbors have a key to my car as they must move it sometimes, what I do instead is just arm the alarm but disarm the shock sensor.