Does the subwoofer have to be "free-air"?
09-11-07, 08:55 AM
#16
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In case anyone was on the fence about upgrading their IB sub, TC Sounds has just released a limited amount of their overstock 10" TC 7's. The Thiele/Small parameters make it a perfect fit for a rear deck install.
If you aren't familiar with TC Sounds, they are the build house for sub marketed by Eclipse, Aerial Acoustics, Stimpson Vodhanel Sound (SVS) and many other high end companies. I have no affiliation with the company other than being a very satisfied customer over the years.
-Robert
If you aren't familiar with TC Sounds, they are the build house for sub marketed by Eclipse, Aerial Acoustics, Stimpson Vodhanel Sound (SVS) and many other high end companies. I have no affiliation with the company other than being a very satisfied customer over the years.
-Robert
What would be a better recommendation for a drop-in sub for my GS400 w/Nak:
1. 10" TC Sounds TC 7
OR
2. 10" Kicker CompVR CVR104
I don't want to use up my trunk space as i've got a baby and need the room. Any help/recommendations appreciated.
09-11-07, 01:52 PM
#17
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Not even looking at the T/S parameters of the Kicker, I can almost guarantee that the TC Sounds sub will be better. But if you want one, get it now. They are going fast and will not be available again under the TC Sounds name.
Are you planning on upgrading your factory amp? Your best drop in replacement will be one that matches the impedance load of your current sub. You don't want it too much below the factory sub's load or you will fry your factory amp. You don't want it too much above the factory sub's load or your factory amp won't output its optimum power.
-Robert
Are you planning on upgrading your factory amp? Your best drop in replacement will be one that matches the impedance load of your current sub. You don't want it too much below the factory sub's load or you will fry your factory amp. You don't want it too much above the factory sub's load or your factory amp won't output its optimum power.
-Robert
09-11-07, 03:29 PM
#18
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Not even looking at the T/S parameters of the Kicker, I can almost guarantee that the TC Sounds sub will be better. But if you want one, get it now. They are going fast and will not be available again under the TC Sounds name.
Are you planning on upgrading your factory amp? Your best drop in replacement will be one that matches the impedance load of your current sub. You don't want it too much below the factory sub's load or you will fry your factory amp. You don't want it too much above the factory sub's load or your factory amp won't output its optimum power.
-Robert
Are you planning on upgrading your factory amp? Your best drop in replacement will be one that matches the impedance load of your current sub. You don't want it too much below the factory sub's load or you will fry your factory amp. You don't want it too much above the factory sub's load or your factory amp won't output its optimum power.
-Robert
I'm going to be running a Zapco i-force i-2100 amp to the speaker. Here are the specs on the amp:
2-Channel Amp with Crossover and Remote Bass
-Balanced line input for OEM integration
-Unbalanced RCA input
-RCA output
-Bridgeable 2-channel amp
-MOSFET power supply
-Bass equalization
-Variable electronic crossover
-Remote bass gain
Stereo, 4 ohms: 2 x 100 Watts
Stereo, 2 0hms: 2 x 175 Watts
Mono, 4 ohms: 1 x 350 Watts
T.H.D. : <0.3%
Frequency Response: 10 - 25KHz
S/N Ratio: >90dB
Channel Separation: >50dB
Dimensions: 13"L x 9.9"W x 2.25"H
09-12-07, 06:45 AM
#19
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The TC-7 listed on the site now is a dual 4 ohm while the one from here is listed as a single 8 ohm coil. It's been a while since I modeled it in Unibox but I think that 300w was the max that this sub could handle in an IB configuration. So if you wire up each channel of the amp to each of the sub's terminals, the 200w that your amp will deliver will be perfect.
-Robert
-Robert
01-31-08, 01:28 PM
#20
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I installed a JL Audio 10W6 (supposed to be in a small sealed or vented cabinet) with a 100x2 into 4 ohm amp (each channel running one of the 10W6 6 ohm DVCs). It barely fits in the factory location above the fuel tank and will require building an adapter to mount the speaker in the factory location with factory grill. This setup is phenonminal!
Others mention the Thiele/Small parameters ... the big one you need to worry about is extension (Xmax), as the large cabinet size of the trunk will markedly reduce the amount of power that can be applied to a non IB speaker before Xmax is exceeded. The 10W6 handles about three times the power I'm putting into it at max applied volume (12 noon). Xmax is controlled and the bass is very musical (non-single note).
BTW, Fs on the 10W6 is around 22Hz (an indication on how low the speaker can get). Most car subs are around 28-30Hz.
Others mention the Thiele/Small parameters ... the big one you need to worry about is extension (Xmax), as the large cabinet size of the trunk will markedly reduce the amount of power that can be applied to a non IB speaker before Xmax is exceeded. The 10W6 handles about three times the power I'm putting into it at max applied volume (12 noon). Xmax is controlled and the bass is very musical (non-single note).
BTW, Fs on the 10W6 is around 22Hz (an indication on how low the speaker can get). Most car subs are around 28-30Hz.
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