1996LS400

I've serached but couldn't find an answer. I am pleased with my Nakamichi sound system from in my 96 LS400, but I think I would like a 'little' more bass, but not crazy bass.

I know the sub in there is a free air 10". I found a sub from Kicker that they recommend for free air, it's a Kicker Comp C10. I called Kicker and they said if I run it free air they would only recommend 75 watts RMS to it even though it's a 300w RMS speaker. I don't mind installing an aftermarket amp, but I don't know if a 75 watt Kicker Comp is going to sound noticeably better than the stock sub in there now which is decent. I really don't want to eat up my valuable trunk space with a box either.

Any comments?

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

ehh, iirc the sub in all the LS400's is an 8"

1996LS400

Thanks PD..... now that I feel like an a$$

They have a Kicker Comp 8", will that at 75w rms sound noticeably better than my Nakamichi stock "8"?

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

yes. but why not juss build a small box and port it into the cabin through the sub hole? that way u can use a bigger sub+amp since u have to use an aftermarket amp for the 75w 8" anyways (oem only puts out like 60w rms tops)

iirc the comp 8" ISNT made for free-air? not sure on that.

1996LS400

Would I be able to have a small box built to port through the sub hole with the gas tank there? I haven't looked back there yet? I wouldn't mind as long as I was able to have the panel remain to hide it like factory.

All the Kicker comps are made for free air, I called to verify and it's on their website, Kicker.com.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

i meant building a small box in the trunk and porting it into the cabin through the (then emptied) OEM subwoofer opening.

1996LS400

Believe it or not, that's what I thought you meant. Is there room to have the box directly under the emptied subwoofer hole for the port to hit the OEM hole?

I really need to remove that panel so I can see what I have to work with!

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

removing the panel is easy, its all clips, just be carefull not to bend the whole damn panel like i did

u may have to cut part of the pane out to put the box there but a decent sized box should fit nicely.

1996LS400

Sweet, I'll try to remove the panel and be careful doing it. Then I can take some measurements and see where I'm at.

BTW: I'm doing the sub upgrade for that "Aux. Input to Factory Headunit" mod for my iPod!

Robert_J

Have you checked out the other threads on "free-air" subs? Like this one - link. It contains information on enlarging the hole in the back deck to accept a 10" sub. I gave some facts that go against the whole "free-air" label. The TC-7 sub that I link to is on sale for $99 each or a pair for $150. That's a GREAT deal.

-Robert

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

or u can build a box and get better bass/response and hte ability to throw more power at it without rattling

Robert_J

"better" is a very subjective word. I like the sound of low Q, sealed boxes. That's exactly what an infinite baffle (free-air) install is. The low Q gives you a gradual bass rolloff which is naturally boosted by the cabin gain. If you run a sub with a low Fs, then it may sound a little bass heavy but that can be remedied with EQ.

All you are doing is throwing more power at the sub to overcome the spring action of the air inside the enclosure. You can achieve the same SPL without the enclosure using lower power since the sub doesn't have to work against the air spring. As for rattles, the moving mass of the cone will cause the deck to move unless it is properly braced/damped. Or you could build a manifold like Coustic did years ago. The mechanical forces of the two subs cancel each other out. Home theater guys have been doing this for years - link.

-Robert

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

interesting, this is kind of what i planned on doing witch my system, taking out the OEM sub, and builidn a panel to moun the sub in in the trunk, back towards the front of the car, so that the small space between the panel and the gas tank would vent straight into the car.

still trying to figure out how i would effectively seal it though

akxx

iTrader: (1)

Isn't it only 40 W RMS? If so, and you plan to replace sub only, then you need a *really* efficient sub, or else you run the risk of damaging the sub.
IIRC, there was a Kicker 8" free-air that could run on 50W RMS.

1996LS400

I have the Nakamichi system, which I 'believe' is a 280 watts total. I'm not sure what the subwoofer is getting from those watts though.

The problem I have discovered is the stock sub is at 6 ohms. Kicker makes a 4 and an 8 ohm free-air sub. But from what I understand if you put a 4 ohm sub, your amp will have to work harder and you risk blowing it. If you go with an 8 ohm sub, your amp will work less and you'll lose about 25% of the power (watts).

All this is too darn confusing!