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My Speakers, Amp and Sub setup

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Old 03-19-07, 07:37 PM
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Robert_J
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Originally Posted by GS FONZy
if your box is too samall the air being produced from the sub can push out the sub beyond its limits when trying to hit the next freq ect..
There is no air being produced. In a sealed box, the amount of air in the enclosure is constant or as close to constant are needed in this experiment. When the cone of the driver moves in, it compressed the air. This compressed air is resistance to the cone being moved in. When the cone moves out, the air pressure in the box drops. If it drops below the outside air pressure, then the outside air is the resistance to keep from moving out. For example, the TC-3000 has an Sd (piston area of the cone) of 829cm^2. It has an xmax (maximum linear excursion) of 30mm. That means it is capable of moving up to 2.487L of air on the inward stroke and the outward stroke. In the recomended small box of 1.8cf^3, the amount of air is compressed and expanded +-5% (2.47L/50.94L=.0488). Since the recommeded larger box is twice as large as the small one, the difference in compressed and expanded air is +-2.5%. Have as much springy (my word) air. Therefor Adire's white paper makes sense and can easily be proven in a high school physics class.

Originally Posted by GS FONZy
sorry i don't really want to get all technical,
Please do. I take my subwoofer building very seriously.

Originally Posted by GS FONZy
all i am saying is to get full potetial get the right box for the right sub. seald, ported ect...
That's what I'm trying to stress here as well. But I quoted the part of your statement that I did not agree with and backed it up with facts. There are a lot of ways to "blow" a sub but all things being equal, a too small box will not. It will just give you have higher final Q, a mid-bass hump in the frequency response and shallow bass roll-off.

-Robert
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