hey guys.. i need help on deciding on speakers.... is Phoenix Gold or Alpine, Infinity... which one is better...???? do i also need a capacitor for all this????

 

What are you trying to accomplish with this system?

Do you just want it loud? Do you want it to be audiophile level sound quality? Do you just want subs and an amp?

These details will help anyone answer your questions better--

Also, the amt. you are willing to spend and the amt. of work you're willing to do plays a huge factor as well.

 

^^^

werd

more info needed to give suggestions

 

i already do have a AMP install awhile back with the head unit... and now the speakers blew and i know for a fact i need to get the cap install but i just dont really know between the speakers.. PG, Alpine, Infinite... i wanna do the speakers and the cap install at the same time.. anyone know which one is good..?????? also need something somewhat loud...

 

Have you already done the "Big 3" upgrade to make sure you aren't having any voltage drops due to resistance? Is your alternator up to the task of powering your car, stereo and charging the battery?

-Robert

 

Alright--

First off:

Speakers= Tweeters, horns, midwoofers, subwoofers, coaxial implants, midrange domes, etc. etc. --
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Please elaborate a little more--


What did you blow? door speakers? are they factory? did you have the crossover set right or was it even on?

What kind of amp do you have?

Your alt. should be at least 100a -- so assuming you have a decent battery and some 4ga power cable or at least 8ga, you would be surprised to know what kind of power your factory alt. is capable of making at sustained levels-- 8ga cable will carry 800w over 10ft with no problem-- and I gotta say, if you listen to your music that loud, you won't be able to hear it much longer--

How to determine your system's actual current draw:

You might expect an amp to draw around 30A per 150w if it's a class A/B amp like most 4 ch. and 2 ch. amps are-- Class D's are a different story and draw closer to half that current per 150w -- My MTX 1500DX draws 32A at 290w-- And my lights don't even dim when running it at 4ohm at max power (475w) -

This is a rough estimate, and you should check your amps actual specs, but you can usually find a spec that tells you your amps actual current draw at 1/3 max power-- which is an estimate of normal listening levels--

You can get your alt. tested for free at any parts store (Oreillys for sure) -- and this will tell you your idle amps and rev it to 2500 ~ 3000 and see what it produces there-- This will tell you how much power your amps have to use while cruising on the interstate and while sitting still in traffic--

Your battery has a good deal of capacitance also, and can more than likely handle a fairly powerful system (such as mine @ ~700w rms) at 1/2 to 2/3 max power (325~450w) while sitting still in traffic with ease-- just don't do it for 3 hrs.--

If I ran my sub amp at full power @ 2ohm I may get some serious headlight dimming and need to look at a stronger alt. --

About Infinity subs-- I own a perfect 12.1 -- and would recommend it 100%-- BUT-- TC sounds may have a sub that's more worth the $100 -- they ship for free at that price as well-- The DB500 comes to mind-- and is much like a perfect with the aluminum cone (12" only) -- but it has 20mm xmax-- and will get much [MUCH] louder than a perfect given enough power--

It all depends on the amp once again though-- and without knowing what kind of amp you have [again], I can't even start to tell you what to do.

It has been my experience that the Perfect is a cleaner sub than PG or Alpine in most cases unless you spend huge $$ on the Type X or something-- But again, there are better subs for less money from companies like TC sounds, that are still sorta underground and less mainstream in the car audio market-- These companies are still trying to seed the market, and some companies will lose a lot of money to do that-- while other companies have a strong consumer base and can charge more due to their popularity alone.. (There are still people that buy things just because their friends have them and will pay more because they say they're good)..

Even with my sub amp running at a 2ohm load, I can't see myself using all that power all the time (975w rms just from the sub amp)-- and (325w rms from the 4ch 4200x) --

That kind of power will kill even the best of speakers (and ears) with a little distortion in the mix somewhere, and it's just not comfortable to listen to at that volume--

Very rarely do people use all the power their amp can actually make-- Speakers will dictate the power usage largely-- as they have a limit to what they can do-- and anything over their limit will just turn into heat, then distortion, then you buying new speakers [again] --

Given a speakers efficiency, plus it's thermal power handling, and it's mechanical ability to move back and forth (without distortion of the cone which translates to distortion of the music) -- PLUS the factors of where they're installed (in a box or in a door, or in a rear deck) will all dictate the speakers actual rms power handling-- NOT what the package says it will handle-- (they just give you the thermal numbers vs. the mechanical numbers-- [rms vs. peak]) ....

In short, we still don't know if you want to get components, subs, coaxial speakers-- or even what kind of amp you're going to use --

Tell us a little more and we may be able to give some more detailed information...

Matt--