I Got Some Free Subs. Need Am Amp
04-03-07, 09:33 PM
#31
Lexus Test Driver
The last three posts of this thread should get you started-- I would go for any of the three amps -- whatever will work with your budget is a go--
04-03-07, 09:41 PM
#32
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cool thanks..i think i might end up with a MTX Thunder 81000D...but after readin up on the 6500d i need one of those bad! lol
Last edited by LiLS; 04-03-07 at 09:54 PM.
04-03-07, 11:25 PM
#33
Lexus Test Driver
The 81000D is a 6500d X 3 -- just be sure to turn the gain down or get 6 more of those 5500's 
--
It will do fine for all your sub amp needs most likely for the rest of your car audio career--
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If you ever think you need more than 1500w rms-- please, let me know, and I'll point you to a nice state facility with free jackets for everyone!!
-- It will do fine for all your sub amp needs most likely for the rest of your car audio career--
-- If you ever think you need more than 1500w rms-- please, let me know, and I'll point you to a nice state facility with free jackets for everyone!!
04-04-07, 09:43 PM
#38
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will do...couple more questions if u dont mind.. the subs are dual 4 ohms so how should i approach the install and what wires?
and do you think itll sound good with stock pioneer deck?
(dont have enough to go aftermarket yet)
and do you think itll sound good with stock pioneer deck?
(dont have enough to go aftermarket yet)
04-08-07, 09:22 AM
#40
Lexus Test Driver
When you use the stock deck you may have problems with too weak signal voltage to really wake that amp up--
What you'd need is a line driver-- The perfect thing is to use an AudioControl 2xs-- it's an older model so it's cheap-- but it's also a 9v line driver, a 2 way 18db/octave crossover, AND the best noise filter I've ever seen--
When using the factory head unit noise will be a problem most likely unless you tap into the signal lines at the head unit-- but you'll still have the problem of not enough signal voltage--
You can always crank the gain as that amp will have TONS of headroom, I just hope you won't be amplifying tons of ignition and alternator noise--
Your subs are 4 ohms each, so just connect them parallel-- just combine the positive and negative from each sub-- that will let the amp see 2 ohms--
There may be enough gain to counteract the weak signal from the factory head unit-- just try it-- and start with teh gain WAAAAY down--
That amp will smoke a pair of subs with EASE and FAST if you run way too much gain-- They'll just be torn apart-- BUT-- it will be a very clean sub amp if set correctly--
Just try it without a line driver first, as Im betting that amp will have enough headroom to get some decent volume level without extra preamp level boost-
Just DONT buy a cheap line driver, like a PIE -- they will amplify everything you don't want-- ignitioin noise, alt whine-- they basically suck--
Get an audio control or equivalent if you find you need one-- The only problem is I don't think there is an equivalent--
Ground loop isolators (like from Wal Mart) wont' work on this system either, at least not for me-- I tried 2 different types with the same problem-- The noise was so great that the module attenuated the signal WAAAAAY down where you could barely hear it at full volume--
In short, for me, running two amps will call for a line driver on the oem head unit-- Audio Control is the only way to go there-- That company is great too, they support all of their old products-- This stuff is military grade quality.
What you'd need is a line driver-- The perfect thing is to use an AudioControl 2xs-- it's an older model so it's cheap-- but it's also a 9v line driver, a 2 way 18db/octave crossover, AND the best noise filter I've ever seen--
When using the factory head unit noise will be a problem most likely unless you tap into the signal lines at the head unit-- but you'll still have the problem of not enough signal voltage--
You can always crank the gain as that amp will have TONS of headroom, I just hope you won't be amplifying tons of ignition and alternator noise--
Your subs are 4 ohms each, so just connect them parallel-- just combine the positive and negative from each sub-- that will let the amp see 2 ohms--
There may be enough gain to counteract the weak signal from the factory head unit-- just try it-- and start with teh gain WAAAAY down--
That amp will smoke a pair of subs with EASE and FAST if you run way too much gain-- They'll just be torn apart-- BUT-- it will be a very clean sub amp if set correctly--
Just try it without a line driver first, as Im betting that amp will have enough headroom to get some decent volume level without extra preamp level boost-
Just DONT buy a cheap line driver, like a PIE -- they will amplify everything you don't want-- ignitioin noise, alt whine-- they basically suck--
Get an audio control or equivalent if you find you need one-- The only problem is I don't think there is an equivalent--
Ground loop isolators (like from Wal Mart) wont' work on this system either, at least not for me-- I tried 2 different types with the same problem-- The noise was so great that the module attenuated the signal WAAAAAY down where you could barely hear it at full volume--
In short, for me, running two amps will call for a line driver on the oem head unit-- Audio Control is the only way to go there-- That company is great too, they support all of their old products-- This stuff is military grade quality.
04-08-07, 07:25 PM
#42
Lexus Test Driver
Just use a good pair of shielded wires and you'll be fine-- Monster is good cable, as is Phoenix Gold, as is StreetWires-- I use Tiff cables-- cheap, a pain to mess with due to the wires being two piece, but they are tough, and induct no noise whatsoever-- They're a little thicker than normal RCA's-- A guy on ebay sells Tiff stuff cheap-- he's got an ebay store-- I think it's Trucktunes --
Have fun with it-- and don't break anything--
Running wires from the head unit is the best idea, you'll just need to solder in some females to the low level lines on the back of the deck at the harness--
Have fun with it-- and don't break anything--
Running wires from the head unit is the best idea, you'll just need to solder in some females to the low level lines on the back of the deck at the harness--
04-09-07, 09:33 AM
#44
Lexus Test Driver
-- Sure -- Listen to your cousin-- I did-- and look at me now-- 
For about half that amp you'll need 4 gauge-- you'll likely never run that amp more than 800w before killing those subs-- Though, if they are MTX 5500's, I've fed a single one 650w before it finally smoked-- but in a custom ported box-- which will handle more power than a sealed system--
4ga is good for about 1000w over a distance of 12~ft -- for short term use it would be fine--
Use this calculator-- http://www.stealth316.com/2-wire-resistance.htm
At 60% efficiency (class D amp) producing 1000w @ 14v (common ~ vehicle charging system voltage) your 81000D will draw 120A -- which is more than your alternator can keep up with-- A 2 or 1 gauge wire will be better for a future upgrade when you decide to get an RE XXX or something mean and power hungry like that-- Honestly I envy you with that mean amp-- you can run pretty much whatever sub you want, or a pair of them--
So-- 1000w @ 14v X 60% Efficiency= 120A over 15ft cable run-- 4ga will see a .5v drop-- about 4% (twice the acceptable volt drop), 2ga will see .28v drop, or about 2%-- which is acceptable-- But that amp will make 50% more power than that-- and draw even more current than 120A, so a 0 or 1 gauge is your best bet-- but you could get away with a 2 gauge if you never plan on using over 1000W from this amp-
You're going to get adequate volume levels and start maxing out the subs around 750~ so at that level a 4 ga. would be fine, but you may decide to upgrade those subs soon-- and you don't want to run a power wire twice, believe me-- There is plenty of room to run a 2 or 1 gauge in these cars-- they have built in cable trays in the rockers that run inside the car under the carpet that make it easy to run cable of any kind--
Have fun running that wire, just remember, this aint no everyday amp, so don't give it everyday power wire-- you bought a $700 amp, don't cheap on the power to it--
Oh yeah, buy a capacitor-- a 2.0 Farad or better-- you'll probably need it soon--