Can I run 4 gauge? Or do I need 0 gauge?
#17
The only problem here is that I don't even see an amp on Eclipse's site that claims even close to 1200w rms-- just the XA1000, a 500w monoblock-- class D -- That amp claims a 640w max power BUT at 10% THD -- That is NASTY distortion-- you don't want that much I promise--
They don't list any 2ch amps capable of 250w rms either-- except the XA2000, which is 150x2 @ 2ohm, 100x2 @ 4ohm -- but a full range class D--
The only other 2ch amp is the EA2000 60x2 @ 4ohm --
It looks like the biggest sub amp they make is only capable of running one of those subs-- not a pair for sure, at least not to their max capability-- and you risk killing the subs with distortion by underpowering them by 1/2 their rms-- as you'll need all the amp has just to get em going nice and loud, not like run for the hills loud--
You would really want a single 12" with just one of those 500w monoblocks, as it will do more with the same power given it's sensitivity increase and be a closer match for the power-- and run it ported-- It will pound I PROMISE!! 38mm XMAX with one 12 will be ungodly loud--
Otherwise you'd want a pair of those amps to run a pair of 10's -- and the difference in spl vs. the extra power needed to run the extra sub amp wouldn't be worth it, as the volt drop would quickly bring the output down to where the single 12 would be, and maybe even less depending on what you actually do to upgrade your eletrical system.
They don't list any 2ch amps capable of 250w rms either-- except the XA2000, which is 150x2 @ 2ohm, 100x2 @ 4ohm -- but a full range class D--
The only other 2ch amp is the EA2000 60x2 @ 4ohm --
It looks like the biggest sub amp they make is only capable of running one of those subs-- not a pair for sure, at least not to their max capability-- and you risk killing the subs with distortion by underpowering them by 1/2 their rms-- as you'll need all the amp has just to get em going nice and loud, not like run for the hills loud--
You would really want a single 12" with just one of those 500w monoblocks, as it will do more with the same power given it's sensitivity increase and be a closer match for the power-- and run it ported-- It will pound I PROMISE!! 38mm XMAX with one 12 will be ungodly loud--
Otherwise you'd want a pair of those amps to run a pair of 10's -- and the difference in spl vs. the extra power needed to run the extra sub amp wouldn't be worth it, as the volt drop would quickly bring the output down to where the single 12 would be, and maybe even less depending on what you actually do to upgrade your eletrical system.
Last edited by MJHSC400; 04-02-07 at 05:45 PM.
#18
I bought these amps last year so they are not any current models. I ran down to my car and grabbed them. I realized the sub amp was a 2 channel amp and it is the 34230. The subs are also single voice coil if that makes any difference.
#19
That's a 4ohm amp at full load-- You have single 4ohm subs right?
Just run a single 10 and sell the other one-- Put it in a custom ported box, and enjoy some serious output and sound quality--
With That setup, on a single 10, you won't even need to upgrade your current 4ga power wire, as your gain will be cut back to about 70~80% on all the amps to avoid clipping and ensure perfect sound quality and keep you right at or just under the 1000w mark rms--
TRUST that this will sound awesome-- a single 38mm xmax 10 is nothing to laugh at bro-- it will pound like no other 10 you've ever heard in a ported enclosure, and be louder than most single 12's you've ever heard-- all while sounding awesome--
You just can't do anything worthwhile with both subs on that amp unless they happen to be 2ohm single voice coil subs-- Then you're in business-- just throw in a ported or sealed and hang on-- ported will absolutely pound though my man-- absolutely--
Just run a single 10 and sell the other one-- Put it in a custom ported box, and enjoy some serious output and sound quality--
With That setup, on a single 10, you won't even need to upgrade your current 4ga power wire, as your gain will be cut back to about 70~80% on all the amps to avoid clipping and ensure perfect sound quality and keep you right at or just under the 1000w mark rms--
TRUST that this will sound awesome-- a single 38mm xmax 10 is nothing to laugh at bro-- it will pound like no other 10 you've ever heard in a ported enclosure, and be louder than most single 12's you've ever heard-- all while sounding awesome--
You just can't do anything worthwhile with both subs on that amp unless they happen to be 2ohm single voice coil subs-- Then you're in business-- just throw in a ported or sealed and hang on-- ported will absolutely pound though my man-- absolutely--
#21
Eclipses website is confusing me it says they are 3 and 4 ohm..... Id like to keep and run both with my amp in a sealed box, as i have never heard any sub in a ported box that had any sound quality to it.
#22
#23
Ok-- the subs are spec'd at 3ohm -- If you run two in parallel-- your amp will see 1.5ohm and die a horrible death-- OR, you can run them both in series, the amp will see 6ohm and be happy, but only make about 600w maybe--
If you've never heard a ported subwoofer with sound quality, you should listen to a properly built ported kappa perfect, or a cerwin vega 12.4-- to name two-- making a ported sub sound right is all in the eq and the box design- and the port volume-- It needs to be large enough volume (slot port preferably) to be turbulence free -- if you build it properly, the sub will sound awesome, be more efficient, and handle more power around the tuning freq. --
1 of your 10's will play as loud at the tuning freq. in a ported as 2 will in a sealed, ESPECIALLY if you're using the same amp-- where the ported enclosure system will see closer to it's rms power and be able to utilize it's full xmax capability-- Trust me man-- There are advantages to running a single sub besides power handling -- It's also about the group delay (the speed at which the sub will reach full accurate reproduction of the given freq. you're playing with it) -- two subs will differ, and subs will color the sound to a degree, so a pair will double that degree-- There is no perfect transducer-- Only many manufacturers trying to come close with limited materials that fit into normal budgets--
All this to say, you'll like either one, but given that the pair will handle twice the power the amp will make, one will like the power more, and you'll like the result more-- These subs need power, and if you don't give it to them, there are other subs much less expensive out there that will do much more with 350w than these will --- due to their efficiency--
It's always a rule of thumb to overpower a sub, so you can have overhead with your amp-- if you don't do this, your amp will play much closer to clipping, where the signal is distorted, and you'll blow the pair quicker by underpowering them than by overpowering one--
When I say you need to overpower them, that means you want to have an amp that is capable of making more power than needed, so you can back the power down a bit and ensure you're producing distortion free power--
These subs are expensive, and distortion kills speakers faster than anything else--
From the way you were talking you want this to POUND-- I'm telling you that one sub will be happier with 700w CLEAN rms (by backing the gain down a bit)-- than a pair will be with an overdriven amp that's getting hot and breathing hard-- since it will see a 6ohm load, that's the only safe load you can run the amp at-- and you'll have to absolutely crank the gain to get it to make some power, and this pushes the amp closer to clipping-- and that's the danger zone you have to avoid with expensive stuff like this--
Just do this-- build a custom ported enclosure tuned at 30hz-- kinda low-- run a single 10, get it tweaked just right, and then tell me that sub isn't one of the loudest single 10's you've ever heard in your life--
If you don't like it, or it's not loud enough for you, sell both for $450 and get an IDMAX 12 or a TCsounds TC-3000 -- either one of those will absolutely love that amp and they'll get much louder than you could imagine-- while being one of the cleanest subs you've ever heard--
BUT-- your eclipse subs are right there with those others man-- and you'll be surprised just how clean and tight it will be in a properly built slot ported enclosure-- It will absolutely pound-- I don't think you realize how much 38mm of one way xmax is--
My single perfect 12.1 gets LOUD for being in a 1ft^3 sealed box with 500w rms-- and only being a single sub-- it only has 14mm one way xmax, yours move nearly 3 times as much, meaning they are capable of displacing about TWICE as much volume in a single direction-- over one stroke-- THAT MEANS-- as bad as my ears hurt, yours will hurt twice as bad, as it will get 4 times as loud being that not only will it move twice as much air, it's also in a ported enclosure, which will give it a 3db gain due to the port-- (that's double the efficiency of a sealed, or twice as loud) --
These subs you got your hands one are superb for sql, and a 10 is about as clean as it gets while still being able to get loud--
I've been doing this for a few days now, , so I'm hookin you up with the best bang for the money if you already have all this stuff-- Keep the second as a spare-- just in case you ever have to send the other one off--
Have fun with it and good luck-
If you've never heard a ported subwoofer with sound quality, you should listen to a properly built ported kappa perfect, or a cerwin vega 12.4-- to name two-- making a ported sub sound right is all in the eq and the box design- and the port volume-- It needs to be large enough volume (slot port preferably) to be turbulence free -- if you build it properly, the sub will sound awesome, be more efficient, and handle more power around the tuning freq. --
1 of your 10's will play as loud at the tuning freq. in a ported as 2 will in a sealed, ESPECIALLY if you're using the same amp-- where the ported enclosure system will see closer to it's rms power and be able to utilize it's full xmax capability-- Trust me man-- There are advantages to running a single sub besides power handling -- It's also about the group delay (the speed at which the sub will reach full accurate reproduction of the given freq. you're playing with it) -- two subs will differ, and subs will color the sound to a degree, so a pair will double that degree-- There is no perfect transducer-- Only many manufacturers trying to come close with limited materials that fit into normal budgets--
All this to say, you'll like either one, but given that the pair will handle twice the power the amp will make, one will like the power more, and you'll like the result more-- These subs need power, and if you don't give it to them, there are other subs much less expensive out there that will do much more with 350w than these will --- due to their efficiency--
It's always a rule of thumb to overpower a sub, so you can have overhead with your amp-- if you don't do this, your amp will play much closer to clipping, where the signal is distorted, and you'll blow the pair quicker by underpowering them than by overpowering one--
When I say you need to overpower them, that means you want to have an amp that is capable of making more power than needed, so you can back the power down a bit and ensure you're producing distortion free power--
These subs are expensive, and distortion kills speakers faster than anything else--
From the way you were talking you want this to POUND-- I'm telling you that one sub will be happier with 700w CLEAN rms (by backing the gain down a bit)-- than a pair will be with an overdriven amp that's getting hot and breathing hard-- since it will see a 6ohm load, that's the only safe load you can run the amp at-- and you'll have to absolutely crank the gain to get it to make some power, and this pushes the amp closer to clipping-- and that's the danger zone you have to avoid with expensive stuff like this--
Just do this-- build a custom ported enclosure tuned at 30hz-- kinda low-- run a single 10, get it tweaked just right, and then tell me that sub isn't one of the loudest single 10's you've ever heard in your life--
If you don't like it, or it's not loud enough for you, sell both for $450 and get an IDMAX 12 or a TCsounds TC-3000 -- either one of those will absolutely love that amp and they'll get much louder than you could imagine-- while being one of the cleanest subs you've ever heard--
BUT-- your eclipse subs are right there with those others man-- and you'll be surprised just how clean and tight it will be in a properly built slot ported enclosure-- It will absolutely pound-- I don't think you realize how much 38mm of one way xmax is--
My single perfect 12.1 gets LOUD for being in a 1ft^3 sealed box with 500w rms-- and only being a single sub-- it only has 14mm one way xmax, yours move nearly 3 times as much, meaning they are capable of displacing about TWICE as much volume in a single direction-- over one stroke-- THAT MEANS-- as bad as my ears hurt, yours will hurt twice as bad, as it will get 4 times as loud being that not only will it move twice as much air, it's also in a ported enclosure, which will give it a 3db gain due to the port-- (that's double the efficiency of a sealed, or twice as loud) --
These subs you got your hands one are superb for sql, and a 10 is about as clean as it gets while still being able to get loud--
I've been doing this for a few days now, , so I'm hookin you up with the best bang for the money if you already have all this stuff-- Keep the second as a spare-- just in case you ever have to send the other one off--
Have fun with it and good luck-
Last edited by MJHSC400; 04-02-07 at 09:35 PM.
#25
Alright, so let me make a simple question after reading and understanding everything you have just said.
Can I run my 4 gauge wire back to my distribution block?
Can I run a single 10 in a SEALED box? I dont want to have to pay someone to build a box but do not know anything aobut ported boxes, have only built sealed boxes. (i.e. Will this be loud? Will it pound hard?)
I am starting to understand electronics a lot more after just this thread, but just want a couple simple clarifications.
Thanks a lot man!
Can I run my 4 gauge wire back to my distribution block?
Can I run a single 10 in a SEALED box? I dont want to have to pay someone to build a box but do not know anything aobut ported boxes, have only built sealed boxes. (i.e. Will this be loud? Will it pound hard?)
I am starting to understand electronics a lot more after just this thread, but just want a couple simple clarifications.
Thanks a lot man!
#26
A 10 of that caliber will be loud regardless if it's sealed or ported-- If you were closeby I'd love to build that box for you just to hear what these mean little subs have got-- Sealed will definitely sound good no matter what just get it the right size and be sure it's at least 3/4 mdf -- preferably with bracing-- it's gonna be hard on a box-
Your 4ga you have presently is fine-- but use your cap-- it'll help a lot--
Your 4ga you have presently is fine-- but use your cap-- it'll help a lot--
#27
Well Mr. MJHSC400, you have helped me a lot, and for that I thank you. I think I might just go ahead and put the one 10 in a sealed box or maybe see if i can find a local that has some knoledge of box building and see what he can do. Ill see how it sounds, if it is not loud enough for my tastes(highly doubt that after understanding what you have said in this thread). I will probably sell the amp I have and try and source two mono block amps and run both subs. So we will see.
Another quick question, should i run my cap after the distribution block? So that only my Sub amp is drawing from it?
Another quick question, should i run my cap after the distribution block? So that only my Sub amp is drawing from it?
#28
No Problem man-
Cap Before Dist Block-- Even if it was behind the dist block, it would still feed both amps--
You will understand more and more rules the longer you're involved with it-- It's definitely not rocket science, but taking the time to learn some of the shallow technical aspects I mentioned will really make a big difference in what kind of system you'll be able to put together.
Knowing these things will enable you to separate the hype from the real thing too-- I ran across some subs claiming an xmax of 18mm, and also claiming to be the loudest sub on the planet-- pure horse SCHIT -- There are a handful of subs with 50mm xmax now-- Like the RE XXX--
To utilize both subs, you may consider an MTX 81000D --
OR if you can find a good condition RF 1500bd
Either one of those amps will wake those subs up and let them do what they do best-
Have fun with this install-- and post up how you think the subs perform--
Cap Before Dist Block-- Even if it was behind the dist block, it would still feed both amps--
You will understand more and more rules the longer you're involved with it-- It's definitely not rocket science, but taking the time to learn some of the shallow technical aspects I mentioned will really make a big difference in what kind of system you'll be able to put together.
Knowing these things will enable you to separate the hype from the real thing too-- I ran across some subs claiming an xmax of 18mm, and also claiming to be the loudest sub on the planet-- pure horse SCHIT -- There are a handful of subs with 50mm xmax now-- Like the RE XXX--
To utilize both subs, you may consider an MTX 81000D --
OR if you can find a good condition RF 1500bd
Either one of those amps will wake those subs up and let them do what they do best-
Have fun with this install-- and post up how you think the subs perform--