clammbo

ok so I'm look at the directions for installing this sub at 4ohms and it goes positive to positive......neg to neg......so now if I am installing it at 8ohms am I only hooking up one side of connecters postive to neg?

clammbo

oooooooooooooooooooohhhhhhhhhhh kkkkkkkkk, I will try this when I get home thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!

clammbo

so just before I do this, according to the diagrah........from the amp I run amp+ to speaker+....amp - to speaker -.......and then run a wire from speaker+ to speaker-....correct?

MJHSC400

Exactly--

Amp positive to coil 1 pos. , amp neg to coil 2 neg, coil 1 neg to coil 2 pos--

8ohms-- amp is happy -- hopefully it will make enough power to make you happy--

The thing is -- you'll need to really push the gain on the bridged sub channels way up to get some power out of the amp-- AND, if your head unit has a subwoofer output-- you would want to use that too -- as it will help you use up all the extra headroom your amp has on the bridged pair of channels-- Basically by using the subwoofer output you can control the head unit's signal level to the amp-- This combined with the boost in amp gain should get the sub going pretty good without needing to replace it with a 4ohm version-- BUT-- the easiest way to get power from the amp is give it a proper 4ohm load.

You can push the bass boost a little bit, but you don't want it to be too imbalanced--

See how you like it after re-wiring it and turning up the gain a bit-- if it's not good enough, you may consider getting your hands on a 4ohm sub-- like the one's I mentioned--

clammbo

I looked in the trunk today and it looks like the sub is hook up at 8ohms........now I did disconnect the sub from the amp.....but the door speakers wasn't really pumping any bass, and it didn't cut out?????? any other suggestions?

MJHSC400

Where did you get this sub? Is it new?

I'm wondering if it's not blown -- 8ohms shouldn't send your amp into protection-

The mids and highs don't need any bass-- the sub is for that-- I'm sure they have the front speakers crossed over--

Double check the sub's wiring just to be sure--

IF you have a multimeter it would tell us what it's wired at in a hurry-- just set it to resistance/ohms -- Should read about 6.8~ ohms if wired properly, if it's wired in parallel, it would read about 1.7 ohms-- which would explain the amp cutting off on you--

Have you checked your charging system? Alternator output and battery condition could be at fault but it's doubtful as you would most likely have noticed if either were weak or going bad--

Other than that I'm lost--

I would be grabbing a multimeter about now if I were you--

Autozone should have one they'll let you carry outside and borrow--

If your sub's not blown and it's reading 6.8 ohms at the wire I'm pointing to either a messed up amp or a kink somewhere in your electrical system... ( remember that it needs to be disconnected from the amp before reading resistance)

clammbo

I purchased the sub used. I have never checked the charging system, but it does the same thing with or without the car being on

I have a sub that is 4ohm, I am going to hook that sub up to the amp and see what the system does, question: if I hook up this 4ohm sub and it still does the same thing, this would mean that it's either the wiring or the amp?


if I hook the sub up and it doesn't mess up, this means that it's sub and I should just replace the sub?

here is another option, I also have a 6 channel PPI amp PC6600, I really don't feel like taking it out of one car to put it in another but it may work to my avantage

MJHSC400

If the amp still does the same thing regardless of what sub is connected-- I would have the charging system checked-- it's easiest and free-- Easier than removing/swapping amps--

Once you verify that it's not the sub, AND not the charging system, THEN swap the amp--

One of these will fix your problem--

Question-- How many RCA cables are running to the amp? Just one? Maybe one for the front and one for the rear? I'm curious--

clammbo

ok I put a new sub in there and it did the same thing.....the one thing that I did notice is this.....the amount of power that the amp is supplying the speakers seems to be very little, I mean even my door speakers sound like crap....when I say crap I mean it seems that they are running off of just the head unit.............when the bass hits it less than what the factory speakers where doing.......I could check the charging system, but if that is what's wrong, I guess it means i need to replace my altenator, and well I would live without the system before I do that.......I am truly starting to beleive it's the amp....... Question: the wires for the speakers are run from the amp to one of the plugs near the factory amp....is this correct?

clammbo

ok i know it's not the sub, because it does it without the sub even being hooked up.

engin_ear

iTrader: (1)

OK here's a hint...you CAN'T CAN'T CAN'T get the same guys that wired your system to check the wiring. They will always make the same mental mistakes and poor assumptions that led them to wire it wrong in the first place. So if they already checked it over once and didn't fix it, get someone else to check it that knows what they're doing.

MJHSC400

I would run new speaker wire all the way to the speakers when upgrading power, but mine work fine without it--

I'm gonna say it's not the speaker wires-- BUT- be sure the harness to the factory amp is not connected to the speaker wires still -- in as-- the speaker wires should be severed completely from the old amp and running solely on the new amp alone--

If they're just tapped into, those guys are useless at that shop-- Please never go back there again--

The speaker wires need to be completely disconnected from the old amp-- once again-- for this to work properly--

That would be your answer right there if they're not-- holy SChit this is starting to worry me--

engin_ear

iTrader: (1)

good point.

clammbo

Okay here is how it goes.....I originally hooked up the head unit.....Now in order to bypass the factory amp, I ran the speaker wires from the head unit to one of the plugs in the trunk. I had it this way for about 2 years, everything working fine.......Now when I got this system installed, it seems that the shop took the wires that I ran to the trunk, disconnected them from the head unit, and ran them to the amp.

engin_ear

iTrader: (1)

So hard to get a sense of what's hooked up here - have someone go over it for ya.