All this talk about subs--- What about components? Head Units? Amps?
#31
Lexus Test Driver
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So many people are so worried about everything being the same brand, yet all you can actually see is the head unit, sub, and amps-- I guess that's a lot but as far as components go, I have a soundstream exact 30mm tweeter set, an MB Quart 3.5" mid set, and soon to have Cadence CVL 6.5's in the doors all crossed over on an active network-- The sound quality will be an absolute flat curve when I'm done installing my eq and should be close without it--
All that to say---- well I don't know really, but PPI makes good amps, now you just need to upgrade your Audiobahns-- (trash can) ---
All that to say---- well I don't know really, but PPI makes good amps, now you just need to upgrade your Audiobahns-- (trash can) ---
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#33
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Sure man-- but you have to pay me for my creative ingenuity..
And that schit's expensive--
Naah-- I don't mind really-- There are many older amps that were built like tanks that are just a few years old so people just replace them and sell them even in mint condition...
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Naah-- I don't mind really-- There are many older amps that were built like tanks that are just a few years old so people just replace them and sell them even in mint condition...
#34
Lexus Champion
#35
Lexus Test Driver
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It can't be all bad, DEI WAS a great company at one time too-- I think they were somehow affiliated with CDT or something like that-- Maybe I'm just trippin on cough medicine--
PPI was never as underrated as the OLD punch amps and the MTX thunder amps--
Seriously, if you could find an OLD blue thunder 2300, it has the same board as a 2300x -- which is rated at 600w, but makes close to 1000 rms--![Wink](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
The blue thunder was the cheap line - or maybe it was road thunder??
Either way, they're ugly but they'll beat a stout 12" with some solid clean power, even a JL w6 would get a workout with a 2300 -- or a TC or something--
PPI had a few seriously strong amps back in the day too --
I think their 2300 was a monster too-- like 1100 rms or something--
I still claim the Memphis ST1000D as the baddest coolest smallest amp ever made, and the Memphis Belle as the baddest multi-channel amp ever made-- It even rivals many and most of the latest multi channel amps by DLS and ED--
Somehow I can get started on the longest schit without any help sometimes--
Anyhow, Good Luck!!
PPI was never as underrated as the OLD punch amps and the MTX thunder amps--
Seriously, if you could find an OLD blue thunder 2300, it has the same board as a 2300x -- which is rated at 600w, but makes close to 1000 rms--
![Wink](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
The blue thunder was the cheap line - or maybe it was road thunder??
Either way, they're ugly but they'll beat a stout 12" with some solid clean power, even a JL w6 would get a workout with a 2300 -- or a TC or something--
PPI had a few seriously strong amps back in the day too --
I think their 2300 was a monster too-- like 1100 rms or something--
I still claim the Memphis ST1000D as the baddest coolest smallest amp ever made, and the Memphis Belle as the baddest multi-channel amp ever made-- It even rivals many and most of the latest multi channel amps by DLS and ED--
Somehow I can get started on the longest schit without any help sometimes--
![Egads!](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/pat.gif)
Anyhow, Good Luck!!
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#36
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#38
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#39
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MJH... I'm really interested in Morel speakers, as I''ve heard a lot about them. I'm like you in the sense that the mid bass really makes and brakes the deal for me, and I'm no longer satisfied with my CDT's.. although I think I will try replacing my amp and HU before I swap those out.. but I know I want the Morel 3" VC on the midbasses... I want that kick up front. Any suggestions on which set to look at? And what is the price range like?
#40
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I seriously doubt the CDT's are the problem--
Have you deadened the doors obsessively? Also, are the mids in the oem enclosure or baffles??
Morel's use 3" voice coils which can handle far more power while remaining accurate-- just makes sense--
BUT-- you shouldn't be having problems with CTS's output-- it's probably the amp.
You want 100w rms of clean power crossed over around 80hz ~ in a well deadened door they should perform like rockstars on cocaine
Have you deadened the doors obsessively? Also, are the mids in the oem enclosure or baffles??
Morel's use 3" voice coils which can handle far more power while remaining accurate-- just makes sense--
BUT-- you shouldn't be having problems with CTS's output-- it's probably the amp.
You want 100w rms of clean power crossed over around 80hz ~ in a well deadened door they should perform like rockstars on cocaine
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#41
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#43
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Alpine can suck my left spectacle if they think I would ever pay them that much money for something that can be built with HIGH END drivers for less than $1000 --
Scan speak makes some of the best drivers money can buy at about $200 each mid-- revelators-- very high end -- $3700 ????? Please--
I'll bet those are made by Scan Speak anyway -- they look just like revelator cones--
Scan speak makes some of the best drivers money can buy at about $200 each mid-- revelators-- very high end -- $3700 ????? Please--
I'll bet those are made by Scan Speak anyway -- they look just like revelator cones--
![](http://www.madisound.com/images/product/15W_8530K01.jpg)
#44
Lexus Champion
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MJH, I've got a bunch of issues. Let's discuss them:
1) I'm running about 70W RMS with an old Alpine MRV-T707.
2) My sound deadening needs some work. Doing doors is tough. There are so many damn cables in the way, I guess I need to dedicate a day to taking al that stuff out, deadening it, and then putting them back on.
3) The pioneer HU doesn't have a very high preouts. 2V I believe. I don't know what kind of effect this may have.
4) The EQ on the HU sucks. Can't do much with it.
5) Mids are in the OEM enclosures, but they are not sealed. E'g I'm only using the front of the enclsoure.. the back isn't even attached, to provide the free-air setup. I should make MDF baffles for them instead.. just need to get aroudn to it.
I guess I'm going to have to spend a lot of time on deadening. I have a bunch of RAAmmat left over that I can use, but should I look into the liquid stuff a la http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/pro...products_id=53 ?
Also, the CDT's I have are not the highest grade set they sell. I have the EF-51's, they were about $200.
My roommate has a set of the Eurosport 07's, which are supposed to be a higher end set, but I don't like them. I think it has to do with the way they are installed in his Solara, but I just don't like the dynamics in his car. Also, he has the metal tweets and that really KILLS the sound for me.
1) I'm running about 70W RMS with an old Alpine MRV-T707.
2) My sound deadening needs some work. Doing doors is tough. There are so many damn cables in the way, I guess I need to dedicate a day to taking al that stuff out, deadening it, and then putting them back on.
3) The pioneer HU doesn't have a very high preouts. 2V I believe. I don't know what kind of effect this may have.
4) The EQ on the HU sucks. Can't do much with it.
5) Mids are in the OEM enclosures, but they are not sealed. E'g I'm only using the front of the enclsoure.. the back isn't even attached, to provide the free-air setup. I should make MDF baffles for them instead.. just need to get aroudn to it.
I guess I'm going to have to spend a lot of time on deadening. I have a bunch of RAAmmat left over that I can use, but should I look into the liquid stuff a la http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/pro...products_id=53 ?
Also, the CDT's I have are not the highest grade set they sell. I have the EF-51's, they were about $200.
My roommate has a set of the Eurosport 07's, which are supposed to be a higher end set, but I don't like them. I think it has to do with the way they are installed in his Solara, but I just don't like the dynamics in his car. Also, he has the metal tweets and that really KILLS the sound for me.
Last edited by Suneet; 05-04-07 at 06:05 PM.
#45
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If you like the tweets, just try a better mid-- use the existing xover and try mids until you find what you like--
Are you running a 5" mid?? That will be one huge downside for output-- A 6.5 has nearly twice the output capability-- 2x cone area-- (math)
A pair of revelators will work --
Morel's will work well too-- but you don't have to spend tons of money to have a decent set of mids-- You could always try the Dayton 7" mids to see if they have better output-- and build a small enclosure for them to get some serious output-- seriously-- .3 ft^3 is pretty easy to get -- or .25 --
Here's a peerless mid that is designed for a .25 ported enclosure that is nearly perfect for the factory door enclosure-- A F3 of 55hz in the ported enclosure means you can cross them over very low-- I'd be very interested to see how well these would work-- I've heard some home/outdoor speakers with 5.25" woofers crank out some serious midbass that would absolutely rock in a car door only 2 ft away from your head!!
I forgot to add -- They're $10.25 each on a buyout --
Are you running a 5" mid?? That will be one huge downside for output-- A 6.5 has nearly twice the output capability-- 2x cone area-- (math)
A pair of revelators will work --
![Wink](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Morel's will work well too-- but you don't have to spend tons of money to have a decent set of mids-- You could always try the Dayton 7" mids to see if they have better output-- and build a small enclosure for them to get some serious output-- seriously-- .3 ft^3 is pretty easy to get -- or .25 --
Here's a peerless mid that is designed for a .25 ported enclosure that is nearly perfect for the factory door enclosure-- A F3 of 55hz in the ported enclosure means you can cross them over very low-- I'd be very interested to see how well these would work-- I've heard some home/outdoor speakers with 5.25" woofers crank out some serious midbass that would absolutely rock in a car door only 2 ft away from your head!!
I forgot to add -- They're $10.25 each on a buyout --
![](http://www.madisound.com/images/product/830341.jpg)