labtec

Hey,

Quick question. If I wire it at 1.4 ohm like you said, will I be using all 1200RMS watts of the Hifonics amp?? If so, I heard anything above 1000RMS requires a new alternator? Is this true?? I'm trying to avoid getting a new alternator, I just want nice bass that hits the seats well. Is this still the best option? The price is nice.

MJHSC400

I would say that since it's a class d-- you shouldn't be pulling enough juice every day to worry-- it's just if you decided to crank it all the way up all the time, which I doubt you will --

Somewhere around the 600w mark sealed or the 400w mark ported that sub will start getting painfully loud-- the rest of it's output is just for showing off and shouldn't actually be used for any sane purposes.

You'll be fine-- it will be close to 900~1000 rms -- / .66 (efficiency)/15v~ = 90amps -- So you've barely got enough --

labtec

Thanks!!! I appreciate all your help!!

labtec

MJHSC400 since you run the show around here, I had another question.

What do you recommend I replace my factory rear speakers and front speakers and tweeters with?

Thanks

MJHSC400

Man-- I wouldn't even replace the rears honestly-- they're a good quality midrange at least in my stock pioneer SC4-- the rear mids look to be of very good quality and judging by how my fronts are 15 yrs old and holding up to my 75x4 MTX 4200x, they're probably pretty stout also--

I'm really amazed at how well these fronts sound and how well they handle power-- I didn't expect to see a factory setup of this quality in any car-- My BMW 535i of 1990 didn't have near the sq of the SC4's system and they were in about the same cost bracket-- That 535i IS one hell of a car though to say the least-- Pop a chip in and get a 7000 rpm redline and 24+ hp -- $250 for a conforti chip-- I wish the Lex was the same way-- A 540i bumps from 282 hp to about 305 or so-- way off topic there--

I'm not sure what you want to spend for fronts but components fit well as there is good depth for a mid and a nice stock tweet location-- If you are willing to spend $200 go with the CDT's on sale on woofersetc.com -- BUT-- the cadence CWM6KIT is a freakin steal -- I just can't stress that enough-- The xovers are of great quality, the tweets are 25mm silk, and the mids look like small subs, but the AL cone is tight fast and accurate- This set used to retail for $250~$300 through dealers in 2004, and now they have just under 1000 sets left in inventory at the $89 shipped price to just move the new old stock (full warranty)- Those guys support their products like mad too-- Very good customer service-- The new Cadence CVL's which replaced the CWM6KIT are unreal and have earned a spot among the big dogs like morel and dls for both sq and power handling--

Here's the link--

labtec

thanks again MJH! I think the cadence kit seems very attractive at under $100. Will I have to use the "Impedance Matching Crossover Network" it comes with or can I just replace the tweeters and speakers?

MJHSC400

You DEFINITELY want to use the matched crossovers--

The factory tweets are most likely just hi pass with a single resistor-- only 6db per octave-- not good enough under high power applications with most tweets unless it's high enough--

USE them! I'ts easy to do-

You have one wire running to the door-- connects to the mid -- this goes to the xover input-- then you run a new wire from the xover to the new mid, and you run a new wire to the new tweet-- simple as that--

The tweets I've heard from every single comp. set have always been brighter or more sensitive to power than the mid-- just mechanics-- So it's very cool that the xover has a built in tweeter eq switch-- -3, 0, +3 -- The mid is probably around 89db 1w/1m -- the tweet is probably 93 db 1w/1m -- so set it to -3 and it'll match well-- the rest of the curve can be tweaked with your eq settings--

I'm installing my eql as soon as I have AudioControl look it over and refresh it-- $35-- can't beat that-- This will do all the eq'ing I will ever need--

This is the case with most all mids and highs-- the tweet is generally always a little more sensitive than the mid-- but the silk tweets are smooth so you should really like them-- Just be sure you have your gains set right and you'll be good--

labtec

back to the drawing board for the subs (the tc3k seemed like an overkill)

is it better to get one tc-2000 or two db500's? both setups will be powered with an Hifonics BXi 1206D

thanks

Robert_J

Both of these options will require larger boxes than a single TC-3000. The massive motor on the 3K is what you need to get great output from a small box. And it's not just an SPL sub. The sound great (at least the 15" models do). I wouldn't use it if it didn't.

Here's one 3K mounted in my 3cf test box in my theater. That's a TC2+ 12" on the left, my Behringer amp that puts out 1,200w/channel above it, and on the top of the stack is my center channel (a Dayton III from speakerbuilder.net) - link.

In my 20+ years of building speakers, this is the most massive sub I have ever worked with. Here's a pic showing that. On the right is a Dayton 12" DVC (from Parts Express). On the left is a neodymium sub motor (I have 4)that I my get some more 3K top assemblies for. - link

The 3K will definitely be overkill. But you will get great bass out of a small package and it will sound great at the same time. You will also have the ability to crank it when you just want to go crazy.

-Robert

labtec

Robert, you not only pushed me over the fence, you threw me wayy over. I'm getting a TC3k now! I'll have to save a little more but it should be worth it! hopefully the 12" come back in stock soon.
thanks

MJHSC400

Won't a TC2000 be very close in output for a fairly smaller pricetag-- and just a little larger box (not much larger really at all) --

They would also do well with 1000w rms--

A single 12 with very low distortion and a 28mm xmax would get ridiculously loud by most people's standards even in a sealed enclosure--

Robert_J

It is almost 90% larger than the recommended box for the 3K. But we are talking about the difference between .5cf and .9cf.

They will sound great with 500w. I installed a Soundsplinter RL-p 12 in a 1.2cf box, powered by a PG Tantrum and it is a great combination.

The TC-10 OEM would work as well.

-Robert