olddog

iTrader: (2)

I am looking for an amp that can provide at least 80-90RMS X 2 for front and at least 50-60RMS X 2 for rears and 150RMS for sub.
I would go for the jl500/5 but it only gives 25X2 for rears.
My setup is infinity ref comp which has 90RMS for fronts,
infinity ref coaxials which has 60RMS for rear and
kicker c10 sub with 150RMS .
Looking for one sub that can accomodate all these. i don't want to put two amps in my car. I have searched all over the internet but can't find anything that will accomodate this set-up. Can someone please recommend something.
Let me know if anyone has anything or any suggestions.
Thanks
olddog

olddog

iTrader: (2)

did some more searching and found 2 amps.
FIRST, was the JL e6450
Is there a way to wire/bridge the JL Audio e6450 6 Channel Amp to achieve what i need? here are the specs.
Specifications
Rated Power (stereo):
45W RMS x 6 @ 4 ohm (12.5V);
75W RMS x 6 @ 2 ohm (12.5V)
Rated Power (bridged):
90W RMS x 3 @ 8 ohm (12.5V);
150W RMS x 3 @ 4 ohm (12.5V)
THD at Rated Power:
<0.08% @ 4 ohm (20 Hz - 20 kHz)
S/N Ratio:
>104 dB referred to rated power (A-weighted, 20 Hz – 20 kHz noise bandwidth)
Frequency Response:
10 Hz – 25 kHz (+0, -1dB)
Damping Factor:
>200 @ 4 ohm per ch. / 50 Hz,
>100 @ 2 ohm per ch. / 50 Hz
Slew Rate:
± 22V/µs
Input Range:
200mV – 8V RMS

SECOND,
PYLE
Thrill Audio SKU #: SAPLMRA620
Manufacturer SKU #:PLMRA620
4x 100W + 2x 250W RMS at 4 Ohms
4x 250W + 2x 500W MAX at 4 Ohms
2x 400W + 1x 900W MAX at 4 Ohms Bridged
4x 175W + 1x 400W RMS at 2 Ohms
Variable Hi/Lo Electronic Crossover Network (CH1 / CH2 and CH3 / CH4)
Variable Bass Boost (CH5 / CH6)
2 Ohm Stereo Stable
Power ON LED Indicator
Protection LED Indicator
Gold RCA Inputs
Remote Bass Boost
Blue LED Level Display
Soft Turn On/Off
Tri-Mode Configurable
Low and High Pass Filter Controls (CH3 / CH4)
Variable Input Level (Gain) Control
Thermal / Overload / Short Circuit Protection
Dimensions: 10.9''W x 2.7''H x 19.6''L

dentpusher

Pyle is not going to be the best way to go for quality and sound. The 25 watts out of the rear of that JL amp would be plenty loud for rear fill.
There are a few amps that I use often that I have found to be great. The first is Xtant e603. http://xtant.com/html/products/X603e.cfm It has passive rear outs so it acts like a 5 channel. The other is the Memphis MCH1300. http://www.memphiscaraudio.com/ These amps have great power and are hard to beat for the price. I have a customer that has been beating on his for 7 years now and been moved to 5 different cars and still takes a beating without any glitches.

One thing to keep in mind is a quality amp may not show real high power in its specs but will blow away a cheaper amp with twice the power output. A good amp will always put out more power than is advertised. Its the heart of your system so get quality.

johnee78

iTrader: (4)

I have been using Xtant amps for years and they are great amps, but not the newer series that were released.The original amps that made Xtant great were designed by the same person that designed the JL audio "slash" series of amps.If I were in the market for an amp, I would consider the JL 500/5 because of their amps ability to give you the same amount of power regardless if your speakers are between 1.5 and 4 ohms..Some of the these other amps on the market offer high output wattage if your speakers impedence is lower were JL's slash amps dont matter because of it R.I.P.S. technology.And dont worry about the 25 watts to rear because its only rear fill..

olddog

iTrader: (2)

i think the kicker zx700.5 might do it for me. it will be supplying 70rms to frontswhich is about 80% what the fronts need.
and i can get 60rms for the rear and still have enough for the sub(210rms).
here are the specs.
any opinions and suggestions are welcome.
ZX700.5 5 Channel amplifier
Kicker EQ boost up to 18db
20hz - 200khz frequency response
250mv - 10v input sensitivity
>95db or better signal to noise ratio
Selectable low pass crossover
Class D mono amp Sub Channel
24 DB per octave 50 – 200hz adjustable crossover
High pass low pass or all pass
85 Watts x 4 RMS 2 ohms + 420 Watts RMA @ 2 Ohms
70 Watts x 4 RMS @ 4 ohms + 210 Watts RMS @ 4 Ohms CEA rating
Soft start circuit
Protection circuit

MJHSC400

Good stuff--

Also--

ED's 9.5 about to be released-- will do more than you'll ever need it to-- and you'll have room to spare on the sub channel, which can be adjusted way down with the gain-- but @ $450 -- they're really hard to beat , as it's 85x4 and 350x1 , then 110x4@ 2ohm, and 760x1 sub channel @ 1ohm -- but about 350w @ 4ohm-- very good specs--

DLS has some good amps, very good, but a little pricey-- found on ED's site also--

The older MTX 5400x is "rated" at 50x4 and 100x1, but acutal rms is birthsheeted at about 70x4 (plenty) and 150x1 sub channel--
This amp was also designed with no compromises in component quality, and were regularly 118db s/n ratio, very clean-- competition clean--

Rear fill -- just turn the gains down, you won't find an amp with an imbalanced 4ch section to my knowledge, as most all of them will be 50x4 + sub, or 75x4 + sub -- etc..

crossfire builds a good quality amp too-- http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...oduct_ID=179--
Many of the better companies that claim a 50x4 are underrated and at 14.4v will make about 75x4 or better-- That amp has a 300x1 sub channel also--

There are many choices--

Older Xtant would be awesome
Older MTX 5400x would also be great
IF you can find an older Memphis Belle 5ch-- BUY IT!!

The belle is one of the most awesome amps of all time-- youd get about 100x4 + 1000x1, but you can run that sub channel at 4 ohms and only get about 400w -- then turn down the gain--

MJHSC400

Remember this too-- If you actually gave those infinity reference components 100w, you'd kill them quickly--

Speaker ratings can be thrown out the window with many manufacturers-- serisously-- you'll reach thermal limits with 75~85 rms with those mids and tweets if you play them with that much power long I can assure you--

75w is about the most you want to give them continuously--

olddog

iTrader: (2)

thanks man. do you k.
now whether or not the alpine v12 series produce more than the manufacvturers claim(like those great ones mentioned above).
if so, i might just leave the current setup i have using the alpine v12. but am just thirsting for more watts

MJHSC400

The alpine generally does not-- I bought a V12 600w claimed power output 2ch and it was weak as hell-- It may have been a qc problem, but this type of qc problem doesn't happen with companies like PPI, DLS, ED, MTX (older stuff at least), and Xtant, zapco, usamps, nak, JL, crossfire--

Seriously, if you want a strong amp, look into the ED 9.5 -- it's still in pre-production, but makes 85x4 and 768x1--

Another good option for you is to get a very powerful 4ch, as they are easier to find, and easier to find on sale too-- Look for a 100x4 and a 300w class D sub amp of the same brand and just match them up-- It's just 4 more screws and one more power wire, ground, and a short rca to patch them together--

I've seen memphis belle's go for $450 though, and if you can hold out, you should try to find one-- The ED 9.5 will be a great alternative to that as well as the Crossfire 5ch (woofersetc.com) -- All will be around $500 or more, but are worth the money--

MJHSC400

That Kicker amp you listed doesn't look bad, and I'm sure it'll outdo that V12 by a longshot-- It should have a much stronger power supply and be able to make a good bit of power when overvolted (15v~) - Just look into whether the power rating is at 14.4 or at 12.5v -- this will make a difference-- I believe all of MTX's older amps were rated at 12.5, so when they see 15v they really crank--

olddog

iTrader: (2)

i found a sony 2 channel in my storage today. I think what i'll do is just bridge the 4 speaker channels on the v12 into 2 and use those for the front components while the 5th channel carries the sub. I will then use this sony amp to power the rear speakers.

johnee78

iTrader: (4)

Make sure that 2-channel sony isn't a class d amp(Subwoofer amp).Honestly, if your thinking about going that route, why not just power your rears through the radio.The rear speakers should not be as loud as the front speakers because they are there just fill in what the fronts cant.Think about a surround sound system, are your rear speakers as loud as your fronts and center channel?

olddog

iTrader: (2)

i would run the rears off the deck but i already ran wires to the back and all. And i don't want to re-run wires or remove the deck again.

MJHSC400

Sometimes cheap amps will induct noise that better amps have no problem isolating-- Most likely that sony is an a/b amp--

I'm still curious where you have the gains set on the V12 though-- You may be able to get more output from it just by tweaking them a bit--

Sometimes the fronts don't seem as loud as they should if you're cutting them too high-- like 120hz is too high in my opinion-- I cut mine at 90~100hz--
That will bring your sound stage farther to the front just by dialing more midbass and being sure your doors are deadened-- No doubt a good bit of the woofers output is going straight to vibration--

Just for trivia, I'm mounting my mids in the front doors to a cement panel made to mount tile on cabinets-- very dense material, but very stiff too-- about 1/4" thick-- then I'll deaden that with some asphalt sheet from home depot-- should be nice and dead--

MJHSC400

Alpine 4ch for sale in a/v classifieds-- https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=277513

70x4 --