labtec

Hey,

I want to order a TC-2000 (MJ, the 12" tc-3000 is not in stock ) to go with a hifonics 1206D that should be be here next week. The thing is, I don't have the time to go out and buy all the materials and build a box. I was hoping to get away with something like THIS.

Do you think this will be good enough? I mean, what makes this any different from a DIY enclosure?

Also, I plan to wire the dual voice coil tc-2000 at 1.5 ohm. However, my amp only lists the following settings:
4-Ohm - 450-watts
2-Ohm - 900-watts
1-Ohm - 1200-watts
Will it be ok to run it at 1.5ohm's?

Lastly, since the sub is only 800watts, I am assuming I will be ok with the stock battery and alternator. Can anyone please confirm this?

Thanks for the help.

****UPDATE-STARED ON THE BOX****



for the front panel, i glued two 3/4 mdf boards since i'm not using a brace. it should be pretty strong.



thanks guys for ur help. more pics to come. i got my sub and amp in today!

MJHSC400

1.5 ohm is fine, you just don't want to drop below 1 ohm-- .8 ohm would even be fine most likely--

You should be fine with the stock charging system since the amp is class D..

The box should be fine too-- though I'd prefer something with bracing for that mean of a sub--

labtec

once again, thanks MJ. I think i'll buy the box and use it temporarily until I can get around to building one. Since its so cheap, it won't be a big loss.

Also, can someone help me put this into plain english.

"This is just a guess but this driver (tc-2000) seems to be better suited for a ported or passive radiator enclosure
(a Qtc of .707 in a .438 cu.ft. sealed box will yield about a F3 = 53 Hz)"

Should I look away from the tc-2000 if I want a sealed box?

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

basically means that the freq. response will be better in a ported/bandpass box.

i think

Robert_J

Remember that the 3 ohm parameter is the DC resistance of the coil. It's basically a dual 4 ohm nominal driver. When installing a driver in a box, there's a natural rise in impedance and that rise varies by frequency. When you wire your driver's coils in parallel, you will have an impedance of 2 ohms to 20 ohms throughout the frequency range. You can graph this in WinISD or Unibox.

Your question about Qtc and best be expained by reading this site. As you can see, the Qtc describes the shape of the curve. With the F3, you can easily map the entire response.

By putting your TC-2000 in a box that large, your Qtc will be closer to .55. Not a problem. Your car's natural cabin gain will fill in the low end. I also like the sound of a low Q design.

-Robert

labtec

thanks guys. my tc2k is expected to ship today. i know i keep changing my mind, but i think i'm gonna take the time and just build a 1 cu/ft box. The displacement of the sub is .1 cu/ft and the recommended net volume of the box is .9 cu/ft. I think it should work out well.

MJHSC400

I think they say to use a 1.1 to a 1.8 -- I'd build a 1.2 --

The smaller the box the higher freq. the peak will be if it's sealed, which I like as you can cut the xover right at the mids -- to get as close to 90hz as possible without going over-- helps blend the system and fill the lowend gap in my opinion--

That amp and sub should pound bro-- Just be sure to set the gain properly and clean up ANY distortion you hear-- If you're not sure about this you should find a buddy that knows or take it to a shop after you install it and have them set the gain for you--

Beware of just any shop-- stick to reputable one's and avoid holes in the wall or Circuit City and you should be fine. Competition cars are a good sign, as are extensive photo albums of sq and spl installs--

labtec

ok, so the larger the box the deeper the bass. but will i still get tight accurate base, i don't want it to rattle.

as for the gain set, is this done using controls on the amp?

MJHSC400

Like Robert J said- the cabin gain will seriously amplify the lowend, so a smaller box like 1.2 should sound great-- I think 1.8 would be more suitable for home theater where the low extension would be audible-- 1.2 will be tight-- should be really tight--

Gain settings are done with the gain control on the amp itself--
You can do this by ear or with an oscilliscope-- I always do it by ear-- though for a competition scoping the preamps is the only way to do it--

A shop should be able to set it properly for you and it shouldn't be much if you install it yourself and just have them set the gain for you--

labtec

MJ, thanks again. been a big help.

Robert_J

There's a gain setting video at ED's site and all you need is a DMM.

Rattling is a sign of a poorly built car or box. If your sub is rattling there is something wrong with it.

A properly set up TC-Sounds sub (any model) should sound amazing.

-Robert

labtec

cool stuff. thanks guys. box building weekend is coming up. hoping for the best.

on a side note, will THIS be good enough for the 1206d

MJHSC400

Robert J being funny--

I like that guy--

If your cavalier rattles it's **** basically....


That's a great deal for a complete install kit-- But your local battery supply house should sell spooled 4ga cable by the foot -- My local one does @ $1 per foot-- -- Then you can visit the ebay store called trucktunes and get your rca's -- The streetwires by esoteric are good quality and the guy sells his stuff cheap-- really good prices-- I like that guy too-- he really takes care of his customers-- like really fast-- good ebay seller with some great deals--

labtec

If I buy my wire separately, what type of in-line fuse should I be looking for (80amps?)?

Robert_J

There's always a bit of truth in my attempts at being humorous. The Memphis area is overrun with Caprice Classics and numerous "classic" cars that have been propped up on 24" to 30" rims. I've had them pull up beside me or drive by me in a parking lot with some 3 Six Mafia (anyone have an emoticon flashing a gang sign?) bumpin'. They might as well be dragging tin cans behind the car. I don't know how they can't hear the rattle. On the other hand my last install was a '92 Mercury Sable. I made it a point to locate as many rattles as possible and eliminate them with extra screws or spray foam (he was on a budget so no exotic sound damping).


My college roommate's girlfriend drove a Cavalier. It was a POS.

-Robert