400DGRZ

iTrader: (2)

Great pics Dex! Looks like an outstanding quality install. Congrats.

///MDex

Well, a little, but that is due to the lightweight of the OEM rear deck. I had this preemtive discussion with the lead tech there, and he mentioned he could rebuild it as a heavier unit, with the same covering, and bolt it down; so that is in the future...

Actually, I pretty much believe he could build damn near anythng I ask for - he appears to be rther inovative and creative, and certainly has the shop to do so.

Yes, they did D/M the entire topside of the rear deck; you mean you missed the pic? (#10 abpove)

K10's-GS4

Hey Dexter,

You should get the system tested on a db meter for our inquiring minds. Install looks great and im sure it sounds just as good as it looks.

gen1gs

can you hear any evidence of the line level converter? I ask because I am jumping back and forth between a LLC and an amp that has high level inputs. You LLC was made by Monster cable? I tried searching their site with your part number but couldn't find anything.

Percy

Gen1gs,

I still like these guys for LLC's. Good stuff.
http://www.linkmeup.com/pl2.html

Dexter,

Looks like you've got a good shop on your hands. Believe it or not, YOU could have done something like that...easy. It all looks overwhelming but if you take it in bite sized pieces and handle a little bit at a time, you'll find it's well within your reach. Still, there are little tips and tricks that I'll include in "the book". How is your power wire routed?

Percy

Percy

Amlin423,

I know what you mean. I only have the option of working on the car myself as I don't trust very many people with the caliber of equipment that I have. But, there's nothing like doing it yourself to get some practical experience! As Mean Gene and I can attest, there have been many times in the trunk working on the wiring with Pizza and Pepsi nearby. I always try to back the car into the garage so the kids won't see the equipment in the trunk. As soon as anyone sees the Velodyne magnet hanging down, they freak!

Percy

amlin423

absolutely right percy...trial and error...gotta learn it the hard way sometimes...i broke two things in my GS...one is when I tried to take out the rear pillar panels...broke one of the things inside...but there's no way you can tell from the outside...and another thing is those things that hold the doors panel and the actual door together...i bent that badly because I tried to push the panel back when it wan't aligned right on the hole.....but there's enough screws and those things in there to hold the door perfectly anyways....with the right tools...those two mistakes could've easily been avoided

oh...and you'll always get some cuts and bruises...and sometimes some wire copper stuck in your fingers...(those HURT!!)

///MDex

Honestly, I'm not sure what to listen for, for evidence. I know you loose a tad bit of quality, but obviously from my comments, I'm still very inpressed; and, I'd rather loose just a hair of quality, than have to cut up a bunch of connections. I plan on upgrading the HU next year anyway, so I'm sure I'll stay more than satisfied until then.

The cables used for the LLC were MC; the units themselves, not sure. Let me see if I can get my invoice for you and see if they list the manf. I went ahead and used a quality of cable one more than I needed that included the available plugs that will let me control the sub from my upgraded HU once it is installed.

If you have your pick, I'd go with whatever Percy suggests ; I put full trust in the guys at the shop for mine; I'm pleased.

HTH

///MDex

Maybe, and I appreciate your vote of confidence , but I really don't have the time, tools, resources, or the inclination to tackle anythng of that magnitude (as with most things outside of my hobbies and industry...) I'd much rather pay a professional and develop a relationship with a shop that I can trust and go to for advice and work down the road. You know what I'm sayin....

Mean Gene

Dex & Dave - Since ya'll both have the same sub & amp combo ( & I'm hoping wired the same way? ), if U get a chance to dB the cars, be sure & post those numbers ( & the box volumes ) so that the rest of the Members get a better idea of how important the enclosure size can be on SQ & SPL. IME, the smaller box will be tighter & yield itself to better SQ while the larger box will hit harder - but I've been fooled before!! I know that there R other variables like battery condition & especially the meter used for measuring the pressure but ballpark figures will be fine for argument sake!!:eek: Seems to be a nice basic SQ install that U deserve credit for researching beforehand. Congrats & enjoy!!

///MDex

On teh dB thing, maybe; I think Dave told me he has one.....

FWIW, the lead tech installer told me that the enclosure size is super important, and mentioned some direct relationships like what you stated above.

My battery does need to be upgraded though - I got that speech. Not because I run a super power system, just that mine is getting run-down, and battery performance effects sound quality, even though my amp regulates the flow...the flow is getting slow

I was hoping I'd hear your opinion MG!

What is SQ?

Mean Gene

Dex - SQ stands for "Sound Quality". Percy's working on his "ultimate SQ" system but with the choices of Velodyne, DynAudio & McIntosh, he certainly has the components for it! He's also been known to "improve" things, if ya know what I mean!! I ain't THAT talented!! BTW - SPL stands for "Sound Pressure Level" but I'm sure U knew that. Hopefully Master P will include some definitions in his/our book ( if I ever get off my butt & get my pics & info to him!! ). For your battery needs I'd look into the Optima Yellow Top. It has 950 cranking amps ( 750 cold cranking amps ) which is the same as their Red Top but the Yellow Top is designed for deep cycling & will allow numerous "zero discharge" cycles before crapping out. I HAVE killed a Red Top years ago with my S-10 ( twelve 10" subs & 3 RF Punch 200's ) but that was before the advent of the Yellow Top. Don't even think about a DieHard or something along that line - they aren't designed for heavy current draws & Sears will give ya a hard time about replacing it under warranty ( "the battery's NOT designed for that kind of usage" was the story I got ). There R two models of the YT but the only difference is the location of the terminals. www.optimabatteries.com

Percy

Gene,

The only thing that Sears makes well - their handtools. I've worn down a few precision screwdrivers and they've always replaced them with no questions asked. Now anything with moving parts is difficult to warranty since there is wear involved.

As for their DieHard batteries, well, they die fairly easily. Remember the "switchable" ones a few years back? Supposedly had a reserve incase you ran down the battery? Well, it turns out that the reserve drained at the same rate as the main battery. I'd like to find the engineer who thought of that one and whap him!

Percy

Percy

I've done that a few times! Let me tell you, the strands in the 4 guage wire HURT when they're jammed under the fingernails. I've hit them under there a couple of times and ended up bleeding (and cussing!)

Percy

amlin423

MG, you said the location of the terminals are different..you mean...positive on the left side and negative on the other right?
Couldn't I just turn the battery around, or would that not fit...I have never taken out my battery so I don't know what that looks like....

Percy, 4 gauge wires in your fingernails..that's gotta be hell..
BTW...I used your EQ settings...everything was nice except I thought the bass was a bit too much so i tuned 100Hz down to +3 dB instead of +5 .....Celine Dion's "screaming" still hurts a bit though...i kinda wince when she hits some of her high notes as well as the Glitter girl Mariah Carey (esp hers) ....Man...parametric EQ's are NOT easy to learn....I'm have so much trouble with it..