Help me Choose my New Front Stage
#16
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
I want to have a DSP so later on I can swap tweeters and mids easily to try out differnt things and not have to build a new x-over each time.
Where are you getting the design for the x-over? That sounds like a lot of fun. Do post the results!
#17
Maintenance Moderator
iTrader: (2)
You're going to make your own x-overs? Nice. Right now I'm looking for a DSP.. and I'm gonna run these active. I'm looking at the Alpine units (pricey) as well as the PPI DCX-730 but its IMPOSSIBLE to find. Its a great DSP for the price though.
I want to have a DSP so later on I can swap tweeters and mids easily to try out differnt things and not have to build a new x-over each time.
Where are you getting the design for the x-over? That sounds like a lot of fun. Do post the results!
I want to have a DSP so later on I can swap tweeters and mids easily to try out differnt things and not have to build a new x-over each time.
Where are you getting the design for the x-over? That sounds like a lot of fun. Do post the results!
for pretty standard 12db/octave slopes, all you need is inductor coils and capacitors...
www.the12volt.com has all of these diagrams, including a calculator for determing cap and coil values... http://www.termpro.com/articles/xover2.html
has some awesome info as far as what types of coil/cap to choose and why... it also has the diagrams, just lacks the calculators...
For mine, I purchased some high quality caps and air-core inductors that can withstand about 300 watts of power (although I will only realistically use 100 or so). When everything comes in, I'm going to radioshack to buy some blank prototype circuit boards, and solder everything to those... (madisound.com and others have pre-built circuit boards - just add caps/coils, but to me they aren't worth the $10 they go for, and it's hard for me to figure out sizing just looking at a pic on the web...
one other thing I like about passive is their flexibility... much more tunable than most active crossovers...
Last edited by mitsuguy; 06-23-07 at 07:59 AM.
#18
Maintenance Moderator
iTrader: (2)
2250 low pass, 12 dB/octave and 2500hz high pass, 12dB/octave... might be a little bump in that area, but my EQ has a trim pot at that spot, so if it's peaky, I can tune it down a little... nice thing about passives... if I don't like it, I just have to swap out a cap or coil...
#19
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Thats pretty sweet. Thanks for the info: if I can't find a good DSP, maybe I'll build my own x-overs. Seems pretty cheap and a fun little project.
When I build myself some bookshelf speakers, I'll be sure to build my own x-overs this way.
I've built a small amp and x-over before in one of my EE labs, but I just figured better x-overs were a lot more complicated-- guess not.
When I build myself some bookshelf speakers, I'll be sure to build my own x-overs this way.
I've built a small amp and x-over before in one of my EE labs, but I just figured better x-overs were a lot more complicated-- guess not.
#20
Maintenance Moderator
iTrader: (2)
Thats pretty sweet. Thanks for the info: if I can't find a good DSP, maybe I'll build my own x-overs. Seems pretty cheap and a fun little project.
When I build myself some bookshelf speakers, I'll be sure to build my own x-overs this way.
I've built a small amp and x-over before in one of my EE labs, but I just figured better x-overs were a lot more complicated-- guess not.
When I build myself some bookshelf speakers, I'll be sure to build my own x-overs this way.
I've built a small amp and x-over before in one of my EE labs, but I just figured better x-overs were a lot more complicated-- guess not.
gonna install them tonight along with my new stuff...
#23
Maintenance Moderator
iTrader: (2)
yah, hindsight is 20/20 though... I shoulda put inputs and outputs on the same side... I mounted them in the armrest, and the only way they'd fit doesn't allow me to get to the inputs... meh... I hardwired it anyways with a pigtail sticking out - not ideal, but it works... and these new speakers sound AMAZING... (I got the Seas tweeters and a set of Peerless mids)
here ya go:
here ya go:
#24
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
yah, hindsight is 20/20 though... I shoulda put inputs and outputs on the same side... I mounted them in the armrest, and the only way they'd fit doesn't allow me to get to the inputs... meh... I hardwired it anyways with a pigtail sticking out - not ideal, but it works... and these new speakers sound AMAZING... (I got the Seas tweeters and a set of Peerless mids)
here ya go:
here ya go:
#25
Maintenance Moderator
iTrader: (2)
heh... I modified the stock enclosures for now... sealed off the itty bitty port and cut open the rear... I need to build a real enclosure for them, but thats all in due time... with the tweeters, I mounted them to the stock bracket and bent it so that the tweeters face each other - to do this, I had to dremel off the lip of the tweeter to make it fit - these things are huge...
no pics for now until i get something worth taking pictures of...
no pics for now until i get something worth taking pictures of...
#26
Lexus Test Driver
I love SC doors due to the fact that you actually can build a really large enclosure for a woofer--
In all reality I think a 6.5 in the proper vented enclosure with a nicely modded/molded/reshaped panel would work just as well as an IB 8" woofer--
For many cars neither of these two are even considered an option though--
In all reality I think a 6.5 in the proper vented enclosure with a nicely modded/molded/reshaped panel would work just as well as an IB 8" woofer--
For many cars neither of these two are even considered an option though--
#27
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
Allright, got some pics of what I'm working with:
First I took 3/4" MDF and cut out a baffle, and used a router to make thet tabs connected to the baffle thinner, so they fit properly with the panel and existing screws and mounting holes:
Then added a speaker mounting ring:
Why is it so far from the center? Because I need 3 of those rings, and if I move them center, the door won't close!
Test fit:
Now you can see why they had to be located the way they were.. its a tight fit.
I left about 1" of clearance so that I can fiberglass the new door panel nicely and have it fit flush with the door still.
Thats about the progress I've made. I spent a lot of time deadening the door, and that was just the first layer. I have two more layers to go, and I have to seal the big holes in the door.. working on a solution for that.
Also need to figure out a way to seal the baffle to the door... some suggested modeling clay. I think I might give it a try.
First I took 3/4" MDF and cut out a baffle, and used a router to make thet tabs connected to the baffle thinner, so they fit properly with the panel and existing screws and mounting holes:
Then added a speaker mounting ring:
Why is it so far from the center? Because I need 3 of those rings, and if I move them center, the door won't close!
Test fit:
Now you can see why they had to be located the way they were.. its a tight fit.
I left about 1" of clearance so that I can fiberglass the new door panel nicely and have it fit flush with the door still.
Thats about the progress I've made. I spent a lot of time deadening the door, and that was just the first layer. I have two more layers to go, and I have to seal the big holes in the door.. working on a solution for that.
Also need to figure out a way to seal the baffle to the door... some suggested modeling clay. I think I might give it a try.
#30
-Robert