I finally got around to updating my front stage after installing all aftermarket amps--

I really appreciate the quality Lexus builds into the stock system but I wanted a bit more than what the stock system had to offer--

I'm powering the front stage with an older model MTX 4200x which is a 45x4 but birthsheets at 67x4 at 14.4v -- the charging system makes closer to 15v or a little more so it could be making a bit more power than that-- My sub is an Infinity Kappa Perfect 12.1 powered by an MTX 1500dx class d monoblock that birthsheets at around 960w rms at 1% thd -- but 900w rms @ .1% or cleaner-- I run the amp at 4ohm and get about 450w rms of very clean power and the sub sounds absolutely awesome-- The SC trunk is well suited for a single sealed 12 as it has a gain similar to a hatchback when you remove the stock sub--

My front speakers are now Cadence CVL 5.25's with a ScanSpeak tweet from the older Soundstream Xact component set which retailed for $500-- the tweet is a bit bright for me and I may actually switch back to the CVL soft dome --

I was able to use the stock tweeter brackets to mount these in the stock locations, and all I had to do was remove the foam strip on the back of the tweeter grille to get a perfect fit.

These 5.25's feature a 3" voice coil and will outperform many and most 6.5" components on the market today by a longshot in terms of sheer output vs. accuracy at peak levels-- They're truly remarkable and must be heard --

I deadened the doors with a roofing product that is so much like dynamat it's scary-- It will cost you about $15 for 12.5 ft^2 -- It's called Peel n Seal -- I highly recommend it -- I also deadened the inside of the outer door skin with a soft spray foam that doesn't harden or expand much-- Dap Spray foam in a blue can-- Both doors took one full can to cover the areas I could reach--

The results are incredible ----

I should also note that I opted to use a thick application of paper mache rather than fiberglass to make the baffles-- I mounted the rings on the baffle with cardboard rings and then layered 10 layers of paper mache over that with a wood glue/water mixture holding it all together-- I also used some white glue in the initial layers-- After the final layer, I spray painted the whole thing with black lacquer paint, then layered two coats of duplicolor clearcoat for added protection against the elements--

As can be seen in the pics I also used some white foam weatherstripping to mount the mid to the baffle and to mount the baffle to the door--

The baffles were cut from the cardboard template seen in the photos. The baffles fit the doors perfectly--

I may also go back and reinforce the layer covering the access hole with some hardening spray foam and cardboard-- it will add a good bit of rigidity and should extend the lowend response even further--

After a 6 hour jam session, I have found that you can run these mids as hard as you want as long as you want with no problems whatsoever-- I have them crossed over at 90hz and the 70x2 they're getting is just enough to get loud at maddening levels-- but they'll handle twice that much power-- I doubt it will be needed however--

 

The stuff that looks like dynamat is called Peel n Seal -- made for roofing, found at Lowes, 12.5 ft^2 for $14.99 --- Really thick stuff--

It has an aluminum backing, two internal layers of polymer, and a very thick and sticky asphalt adhesive backing that will stick your dog to the roof-- (just like dynamat)--

The foam you see behind the speaker cutout and the access cutout is Dap Spray foam in a blue/white can-- So my total was $20 and I still have enough to deaden my whole trunk lid and maybe my rear deck--

 

This will be the Details Post--

These are Stellar components, and with 70x2 they do get quite loud--

I have them crossed over at 90hz/18db and it's perfect--

Strong tight accurate midbass is definitely possible with a 5.25 -- The 3" voice coil doesn't hurt either--

 

Please...let me know how it sounds!! Install and pics look great!

 

I'm curious as to how the paper mache will hold up. If my memory serves me correctly it wasn't that strong when we worked with it in school. Granted that was 13 years ago.

 

Nice work!!

IMHO dynamat is a bit over-priced. In my last car (accord) I used 2 layers of damping material. First layer was roofing asphalt, the second visible layer was dynamat. I took pics and tricked people into thinking It was 2 layers of $$$$ dynamat.

The roofing asphalt at Home depot is double sided. You can peel off that foil skin and double stack multiple layers.

Your pics are a nice little refresher for me, since Its been 3-4 years since I did the Accord install. I am using image Dynamics 5.25" mids in my ES300. Should be a drop in. I'll post pics in a couple weeks too.

Regarding paper mache'.... I have never used paper as a foundation for fiberglass resin. I imagine if you layer the resin enough times on just about anything, it will turn out durable enough, since the strength is in the hardened resin... not the backing material. I have glassed over duct-tape in an aperiodic subwoofer install and it turned out just fine.

One thing to look out for... Depending on the design of the door, water can flow freely through it. So when it rains, water can drip down the glass and drip on the magnets of your mids. I had this problem on my accord. I got around it by hot melt glu-ing a large zip lock freezer bag behind the mids. I cut the freezer bag into a ~9"x9" square and "draped" it over the magnet, using a line of hot melt glue. It acted like a curtain so the water would run off it and not the speaker.

Watch out if you dynamat inside the door. depending on the design of the door, there may be small drain holes at the bottom, to allow rain water to fall out. I made the mistake of sealing those holes up with chassis under-coating..." Hmmmm whay are there little holes down here? Surely if I seal them up, it will tighten up bass response". That winter I managed to accumulate a half inch deep puddle in one of my doors.

Anyhow... good luck with the rest of the install.

thanks for sharing,
Garrett

 

Sorry for the delay-- I've been really busy-- The original post is updated with all details I can think of that are relevant--


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The paper mache is very strong after you layer 10 layers over a cardboard ring then lacquer it and clear coat it TWICE -- My only concern is humidity. I don't think it will kill them for a few years, but time will tell--

But, the baffles will still be good and I can glass them if I have to.

6hr Road Test Update:

After fixing a buzz that turned out to be a crossover not screwed down tight enough I made my way back from Shreveport, LA this weekend where I was visiting family in the hospital.

These mids work very very very well and I thoroughly abused them with all my amp had vs. all my ears could take--

With a clean 75x2 to my CVL mid/ScanSpeak tweet components they absolutely absolutely rock--

I have them crossed over at 90hz at 18db octave-- perfect for the Kappa perfect 12.1, perfect for the 5.25's --

These mids can handle every bit of what your amp can throw at them, and they will transform all the clean power you can throw them into accurately reproduced music WELL into the ear bleed volume levels that most can't tolerate very long--

This is the highest praise of any midrange speaker I've handed out thus far and just wanted to pass along the news of the quality Cadence has turned out this time around.

They are still a young company and are still developing their brand, but it's obvious they're striving to step into the upper level of the competition with these CVL components performance level.

It's a pretty easy concept to understand why a 3" voice coil provides a 4" cone with a very solid/stable platform that fights cone breakup during fast transients under serious power, even at big xmax levels, they still remain very clean and distortion free.. Moreso than most other speakers of this size you will find anywhere--

Other brands to consider at this performance level-- DLS, Morel, Dynaudio--

Funny that they also choose to use a 3" voice coil--

What these 5.25's do is basically more than most 6.5's can do in terms of sheer output while remaining accurate and smooth....

Just thought I'd throw that in there--

 

Finally updated-- Sorry it took so long--