Lex Luthor

I plan to modify the OE plastic enclosures in the doors of my '95 SC4 to fit 5.25" spkrs, anyone happen to know the max depth I can fit in there? I can just enlarge the openings with a Dremel or otherwise, correct? I'm told I can build baffles to fit 6.5s in the doors, but even with a spacer ring, I don't want to go through the trial and error of finding out who's spkrs are too deep. As far as the rears go, I'd prefer not to cut the metal in the rear shelf, will I be forced to build a baffle to use larger spkrs than the 4"? Also, i'm concerned that if I do build a baffle, the trim panel will no longer fit properly. If anyone has upgraded the sizes front and/or rear in the SC, pls holler back.
Thx.

SSmith

iTrader: (7)

Wasn't that difficult to replace. I took the factory pods out, dremeled down to lip, and then attached 1/2 inch MDF to pod.
Installed Focal 6 1/2 in pod with no problems. Front staging is much better, and midbass up front is astounding. Was time consuming, but well worth it. I don't think you'll have any problem with depth. Focal 6 1/2 is pretty deep and it fit with no problem.

Shane

Taka

I'm getting 5 1/4 speakers soon so if anyone has any pictures of upgraded size, i would like to see too.

SSmith

iTrader: (7)

Picture of Completed door. Focal 6 1/2 in door w/ crossover mounted above.

Lex Luthor

Ssmith, that's odd, same birthday, same year and model car as me. Anyway, thanks for the pic. If it's not too much trouble, can you explain the process of modifying the OE plastic enclosures, how far past the original hole for the 4" did you trim the enclosure? Also, did you just cut 1/2" MDF to the shape of the front of the enclosure, make a hole for the 6.5", and glue it to the plastic enclosure? Hard to tell from the pic, with the Dynamat on there. Also, I see you mounted the x-over above, you didn't have a problem with the door panel not sitting flush with the x-over box and added thickness of the MDF? Lastly, any idea how big I can go in the back? I haven't removed the little round plastic enclosures for the rear speakers yet, but I suspect I may be able to build baffles to put 6.5s back there w/out having to cut any metal, got any info? Thx.

SSmith

iTrader: (7)

Saw that yesterday, same birthday and car, kinda wierd. Anyway, what you have to do is:
(1) Remove pod from the door.
(2) The pod is actually two pieces which are screwed together with about eight screws. Seperate and you'll only be using the back piece.
(3) You'll have to dremel down to were there is just the lip of the pod with about an inch of lip to attach to MDF. You'll see the lip I'm talking about once you get it a part.
(4) I attached the MDF to pod with Liquid nails and four screws. You'll have to be careful with screws, because they'll crack the plastic. Almost forgot, the MDF will be the same size as the outside of pod, so it will just sit back in the factory hole. Doesn't stick out as much as factory, but still a close fit with the door panel on. Got some Strap and used factory mounting points on door to attach pod, then covered with dynamat. Crossover isn't a problem hitting door, lot's of room. Front staging is 100 times better.

As far as the back deck goes, there is an adapter that the factory 4 inch sits in. If you remove the adapter, you'll still have to cut deck to fit 5 1/4 or 6 1/2. I installed Focal 4 inch coaxials with baffles so my sub wouldn't interfere. Only problem I have now is my Free air sub is about 1/4 inch away from my tank. Doesn't hit, but bothers me.

My question to you is your back tires. I have Momo 17x9 on the car now with 235 45's. Thinking of going to a 265 35 for rear. Do your rub all?

Thanks Shane

Lex Luthor

Shane, glad we can help each other. As far as the tyres go, no rubbing, plenty of room. Actually, you can fit a 275/35-18 on a 10" wheel back there with the correct offset. Factory offset is 50mm if I remember correctly, so for that you'll need an offset somewhere around 48, most wheel companies stop at 38-42. Clint Pohler (sc300tt) has a set of OZ Racing Saturn (MSW 55) with this setup, he also has a set of 315/35-17 BFG Drag Radials on 17x10" wheels, but his quarters are rolled to the max. I can't remember my offset right now, but they're 18x8.5" all around with 235/40 front, 265/35 rear. If you do the math, the 245/40 tyre in front is actually a couple tenths of an inch taller than the 265/35 rears, so I went with the 235/40 front. The rears are very close in overall diameter to the oe 225/55-16, just a tenth shorter, so at an indicated 60mph, you'll actually be doing 59.0mph, close enough for a perfectionist like myself to be happy with. Remember, same chassis as a Supra, so plenty of room in there for big meats, even up front. I am extremely pleased with the staggered setup, I had spun the car three times or so on the same exit ramp with the old setup. With the staggered fitment, I can't break the rear loose on that ramp now if I tried.
As far as the door enclosures go, why did u need metal strap? To my understanding, you're still using the back of the OE enclosure, which is attached to the door, I believe, and the MDF is attached to that, so...... If it's simply for the purpose of extra support, I certainly understand, just curious. When you refer to baffles for the rears, am I to assume u mean pieces of MDF placed vertically on the sides of the speakers that face the sub? Excellent, I was wondering how to solve that problem effectively, any details would be appreciated. Also, will aftermarket 4" spkrs drop into the OE plastic rear enclosures, or is it a hump, like modifying the OE sub to fit an aftermarket 10"? I'm using the JL IB4, it's decent, also comes somewhat close to the tank. I spent a month doing the install on the car, nice amp rack, plexi, neon, RF amps, Playstation 2, Alpine monitor, DSP control, 12CD, etc, so i'm now ready to do the speakers, i'm thankfull you are able to give me these pointers, not too fond of trial and error, if u know what I mean. I'll try to post some pics of the install, I think you'll dig it.

SSmith

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the info on the tires. Looking to put something a bit beefier on the back so you were a big help. As far as the strap goes, when you trim off the back section of the pod, you loose all the mounting locations. I'll try to take some picks of my drivers door and post them tomorrow. The fours for the back will drop right in. I used XTC foam baffles to seal from the 10. I installed one of the new Pioneer free air 10's in the back. Hope it sounds good. Wanted to go JL, but they only offer the IB4 in an 8 ohm.
Would love to see your install. I want to mount my two JL amps below the rear deck right above my gas tank. Hope to hide everything, still don't no if it's going to fit. I've got the JL 300/4for the front and rear, and the 250/1 for the sub. Installs going slowly but surely, my wife and Christmas are slowing things down.
Need Pics!!!!!!!!!!!! I can't believe there's not more guys on here with aftermarket installs. What kind of speakers are you going with for your doors and deck???

Shane

Lex Luthor

I was dissapointed about the IB4 only being available in 8 ohms, never once got to bridge that amp, but realistically, that sub wouldn't be too happy getting hit with 577 watts. I'm using Rockford Fosgate Punch G800a4 and 225.2 amps, mounted vertically behind plexi, behind the gas tank. If you mount those amps under the rear deck, won't they be upside down? As i'm sure u know, thats a no-no, the heat will soak right back into the circuitry, instead of through the heat sinks, despite the fact that those JL amps are excellent units. For speakers, don't want to go too high end for now, going to 'glass up a set of kicks and do a 6-chan Dolby Digital install with center chan, and i'll go with Focal, Velo, MB, Diamond Audio, or whatever when the time comes. For now, I was thinking about the JL Evolution components, or perhaps the Rockford Fanatic-X, supposed to have nice mid-bass, which is currently non-existent in the car. The multimedia budget has given way to the horsepower budget, for now. Having my Lexus Dealer install a Precision Industries 9.5" converter, and that will eat up $1500 that would have otherwise gone towards premo components, but all in due time, I guess. Shane, what do u mean by XTC foam baffles? Need some clarification on that one, i've done many installs, but my specialty is under the bonnet, not the boot. If you have pics of the modified door enclosures, I would be very grateful, that would clear up any questions in my mind as far as the mounting points, the straps, how far to trim, etc. If I get a chance, i'll try to get some install pics up here for you to peep.

SSmith

iTrader: (7)

Going to build a rack that hangs down from each side of the back deck and mount the amps onto them, staggering the sides of the 10. I'll have a couple of pics for you tomorrow on the door. It's not as hard as it sounds. Envy you on the converter. The only performance upgrade I have now is the RMM intake. Car runs good though. Went from a 99 Ram Air vortech intercooled Trans Am to this about a year ago. Time for some luxury. Sending you a pic of the baffles. You can purchase them at www.crutchfield.com. Work very well. I'd go with the Evolutions. Love Rockford's subs, but there high end stuff leaves something to be desired. Let me no what you decide to do, the Focal stuff isn't really all that expensive. I've got a buddy who sells it very reasonable. You'll be really happy with the midbass up front.

Shane

Lex Luthor

Shane, I see you're a former F-body fan as well, strange, i'm starting to think I have an evil twin.... Ever take the TA to the track? Let's see some times. Anyway, I see exactly what u mean re: the baffles, think I may have actually bought a set of those from Crutchfield a while back. Are they effective at blocking the compression from the sub? I've heard stories of popping rear speakers, or just having them sound out of phase, due to the sub. I would be more than willing to do the Focals if the price was right, any chance u can get me some pricing on the same setup as yours? Not sure if you're using a coax or a component in the rear, but i'd prefer components front and rear, 6.5" and 4" like yours. Looking forward to those door pics, brought some pics with me to work, but don't seem to be able to send them from here, i'll try to post them for you tonight if I have a moment (spare time has been tight, in addition to the holidays and trying to coordinate changing out the converter, i'm also doing a full service, switch to synthetics, Iridium plugs, etc, wish cloning technology was further along by now, could really use two of me). Get yourself a heat shield for that RMM intake. By the by, u on the East Coast, or no?

SSmith

iTrader: (7)

F-Body fan would be an understatement. I've had (4) Z28's and (3) Trans Ams. The 99 wasn't the fastest though. Thru all my old time slips away, but the fastest time it ran in 1/4 was 11.63 on drag radials. Wanted to run slicks, but the car only 3000 miles and was worried about the rear end. Bought my share of 10 inches in the past. Since your wanting components in the rear you just may be in luck. I happen to have a set of 4 inch Focals and the tweeters that go with them. They were originally in my doors, but boxed them back up after i bought the 6 1/2 Component set. I'll see what I paid for them and if you want them maybe we can work something out. The baffles have worked out great. No problem with back wave from the ten. Don't have it playing with everything yet, but hooked it up to a buddies amp to make sure nothing was going to rattle. I'm sick of dynamatting!!!!!!!! I'm actually located in south Texas. Not a lot of SC's running around down here. Good luck on the converter. Should make a tremendous difference. What stall are you going to be running??

Lex Luthor

Shane, i'll probably go with the 2850-stall, this is the same unit that Chris (Smooth8) from lexussc400.com runs, and i've heard hard-to-believe claims of 1 full second reduction in 1/4 and 0-60. Since I find that verrry improbable, my experience tells me to be more than happy with a .5-sec reduction, which is an extremely significant gain in my book. Being a (former?) F-body guy, i'm sure you're aware of Precision Industries' rep, so I feel I can't go wrong. Believe it or not, I spoke with Pro Torque (close to me) and they agreed to sell me a 2700-2800 stall unit for $395. As much as I think that price is great, for 7hrs labor, i'll think i'll do it once, and do it right. Talked the local Lexus dealer into doing the install on the converter, I figure it's worth it for something like this. Big things after that, stay tuned. 7 F-bodies? Nice, that beats me, i've had three or four, mostly alum head roller cam juice motors, one with a stick (wheels off the ground on a 26x10 ET Drag, used to smoke a clutch about every fourth N2O refill, lol). 11.63 is excellent, especially on 'radial.' As far as the rear goes, man, even on a Hoosier Quick Time, I used to pop rears left and right. Trannies too, catastrophic failures like splitting the case and having all the fluid pour out onto the exhaust and catch fire, fun stuff like that, rods and pistons seeking daylight, you know. The guy that bought my Formula had someone drive the car for a street run (he couldn't handle it, I guess) against a Camaro w/ stroker motor, and on the 1-2 powershift the clutch and flywheel went boom on the juice and the kid came a couple inches away from losing some toes. I guess we were pushing the limits back then. Wow, this thread is in the wrong place, back to audio/video! If we can work out something reasonable on those 4's I think we can both be very happy. If u can, talk to your man about the 6.5s as well, i'm starting to get used to the idea of Focal.....

Lex Luthor

Shane, bear with me if these pics don't show, first time posting a pic.

Lex Luthor

RF Punch amps and Connecting Punch distribution