My problem now is that my baffle is hitting the door, thus making the bottom left door very hard to press flat to screw down. My baffle that i was using was using 5/8" MDF. Anyone with any suggestions.

(2) If i put the crossover behind the door, what about the water that will get trapped in the window? Any suggestions. Thanks.

 

gsnav - Haven't done the Dynaudios yet but until someone more knowledgeable replies, I'll give it a try. Seems to me that the past reports on the cutting the baffle have used 1/2 inch thick material (and a full one inch for the "rings" under the speakers). I know it is a lot of work but would half inch help out? Sometimes it is amazing how big an eighth of an inch can be when you have an interference.

Surprisingly little water gets into the door. The rubber seal on the window glass does a pretty good job. Most every door still has a drain hole or two to evacuate what does make it inside. From an ultimate reliability standpoint it might not be great for the crossovers but my guess is that they can handle it. There are electrical connections for the various switches (and the speakers) already in the door and they do get decent lifetime. Passive crossovers should be constructed of components that have very good lifetime in the environment, no sub micron ICs. Hope this works out soon. Let us know how this all goes together. Seems like some of the other Dyn installations either didn't go through everything they did or overestimated some of our capabilities.

 

Now you bring this up, when you say "1 inch rings" do you mean 1" thick spacers or is that something else. THis is my first time ever doing any auto audio installation. Thanks. Thanks RON430 for your help!

 

gsnav, I used 5/8th inch baffle and 5/8th inch spacer ....

2 problems that might be causing your problem
My spacer is almost the same diameter as my speaker so when I mounted the speaker on the rings...barely any wood shows....If your spacer is too big, that might be the problem.

Another thing is where you are mounting the spacer on the baffle..It pretty much has to be at the perfect location otherwise the panel will not close. Percy uses 1 inch spacers and has no problems....so he must've been REALLY lucky...

How many legs do you have? I remember factory has four sticking out but I only traced out 3 (bottom, left and right) .....I shaved all of them very thin.

I know what you're going through...I went thru 3 baffles and cut out 2 pairs of rings to get the right size and fit......not to mention all the shaving of the legs....took me a lot of time and it was pretty frustrating...but once you close that panel for the last time....oh man...the feeling can't be beat...

 

I have no "legs" on the baffle at all. All completely off and I had to use some plumbing strap. (The stuff found under the sink...perforated metal with holes every 1/2 inch) One side of the strap is fastened to the baffle and held with wood screws. Other end of strap is using stock screws.

1/2 inch board with 1 inch spacer. You have to really guess on where the speaker opening is, otherwise it won't close. I tried 3/4 and it was TOO much for the door to handle and then I tried the 1/2 inch. Perfect fit.

Don't worry about water getting in. Good drain and Lexus overdesigned the doors for max drainage.

The 1 inch ring IS the spacer ring.

Percy

 

gsnav - Hope this isn't insulting but obiously we are talking about the thickness of the various pieces. From looking at the previous work there is the baffle that replaces the plastic mounting of the stock speaker and then a spacer "ring" has to go on top of the baffle to space the Dyn's even further out. If I read the previous posts, it sounds like a potential problem area is the projections from the baffle (I think this is what everyone is referring to as the pig feet). I guess try trimming the daylights out of them. If you cut them off just get some perforated strap at Orchard (used for mounting pipes) and cut some off that can be screwed to the door and formed around the baffle and screwed to the baffle. If that is understandable you will have the screw mounting with nothing really sticking up. Anybody else got some word of wisdom for gsnav?

 

gsnav - One more thing. I remember on a previous thread on mounting the dyn's that the position of the dyn on the baffle does make a difference. You might have to recut the baffle and shift the location of the speaker slightly to get a better fit. Hey Percy - those templates for the GS guide might not have been a bad idea. I understand the problem with the dimension change on copying but it could sure save some time for those of us who are going to be doing the dyn's to have some kind of dimension reference for positioning.

 

Ron,

There are a couple of good angle shots of the baffle board and speaker in the book. For the left hand side door the speaker is up high (about 1/2 inch from highest point) and up to the farthest left hand corner. You really have to snug it up on the board!

Amlin,

What's your email again? I'll send you a pic. That should help.

Percy

 

Percy,

Can you send me a pic of the baffle placement because i'm doing the front right door and it's not exactly working yet, cause i haven't worked on it today yet.

Also, you cut off all the legs and used the plumbing stuff right, with holes every 1/2" or 1". Thanks.

 

gsnav,

Picture sent. This is for the left hand door but it'll give you an idea of what is going on.

Percy

 

Percy - I don't want to bug you but I e mailed about getting the book. Did it make it through? I figure you could be just getting around to things as you get time but I would like to know if the internet ate another e mail.

 

gsnav - If I follow what Master Percy is saying the dyn for the left door has its mechanicals about 1/2 inch down and as far to the left as possible on the baffle. The right door is obviously still the 1/2 inch down from the top but would now be as far to the right as possible. Let us know if that seems right. Also, the plumbing mounting strap is availabe with and without holes. Might have to look a little harder for the without holes (Home Depot?). Both should work. I would lay the stuff out and grab one of the holes on the door itself then run it up over the baffle and see where it is convenient to grab another hole on the baffle to screw it down. I take it you got the crossovers mounted. Don't know how crazy I am about the double sided tape approach. Can you get some ty wraps around it? Might prevent going through it all over again to fix the inevitable rattle. Just get some foam tape on it for cushion and cinch that little sucker down. Keep at it, I will be following in your footsteps.

 

Ron,

Didn't get any emails from you!

Percy

 

Ron,

Double sided tape works wonders, especially if it's the industrial strength type! Have to hold in the tweets this way.

Percy