BananaGS

This is for 1999 GS400, I think it's similar to other GS4, but GS3 use a different circuit.

I posted the instruction on my homepage.
http://www.angelfire.com/dc/bananags/

======================================
White (-)
Black (+) 3bulbs (Circuit 1)
Red (+) 2bulbs (Circuit 2)



I have not use this, but all computation base on basic ohms law.
Unless I made a mistake in the computation, the following values should hold.


Theretical Computation for R1 and R2:
Circuit 1: 3 x 12V 5W bulbs = 15W
==>R1=9.6 ohms

Circuit 2: 2 x 12V 5W bulbs = 10W
==>R2=14.4 ohms

-------------------------------------------------------
Thevenin/Norton Equivalent (real measurement, using Fluke 85 digital meter)

V=12.75V

Circuit 1: A1=1.170A (total current flowing through the circuit when engine is ON)
Circuit 2: A2=0.800A

Base on the measured numbers==>:
R1=10.89 ohm
R2=15.93 ohm
(if you use these number and compute back, you would get 15W and 10W, this ensure that my
measurements are correct)
---------------------------------------------------------
Replace all the bulbs with a single registor/circuit. See the diagram below.
You can extend the wires out into the trunk where you would have your resistors in a box.
This way you can prevent any melting from the heat of those resistors.
(get the flame-proof resistor type, usually resistor 5W and up are flame-proof type,
double check, should be labeled on the package)

R values
R1=10 ohm 15W or more
R2=16 ohm 10W or more

You may not be able to find these values for R1, R2 exaclty at the store, get one that is close to them
Hope it works.

Let me know how you do it.:eek:

BananaGS

3rd brake circuit before the mod

BananaGS

R1=10 ohm 25W
R2=15 ohm 25W

99 each. I tried using these values, works perfectly. Have not have much testing time, but the resistors are just warm to the touch..===> pretty good, now you can disable your brake light for a few bucks instead of buying a device from dealer for over $100. ho ho ho

I'll post some pix soon, don't have my digital camera w me now.

Anh

BananaGS

n/a
25 W rate

BananaGS

n/a

BananaGS

good luck.

alexulan

BananaGS that is awsome.

have you seen this one?
It looks like a lot easier to implement and faster?

http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/~ge8w-ngk.../mente210.html
Translated by
http://babel.altavista.com/

1 adding resistance in the lamp failure CP, when the electric current quantity at the time of 6 light is normal, it just tries to make the CP decide. Below procedure is explained.

Turning the lining of the trunk room left side a little, when you remove nut 1 of 10 millimeters of black arrow of photograph, you can remove the lamp failure CP simply

When the < lamp failure CP is removed >

2.65 Removing the baseplate from the midst of the lamp failure CP of the case whose mm�~ 65 mm�~ 30 mm is black, it solders resistance between the white arrow left and the arrow right of the photograph. The 300k - it is the OK by resistance of 430k ohm. The arrow left with the foot where existing resistance is installed, the arrow right is the foot of the diode. Like the photograph without installing the resistance of addition even when soldering in the same position of the pattern aspect of the baseplate of reverse side, it is the same thing.

< Completion >

< Test method > Installing the lamp failure CP as before in the car, while they are 6 lights when you use the engine depressing the brake pedal, the alarm lamp verifies point serving thing. Next, removing 1 stop lamp, depressing the brake pedal when you use the engine, the alarm lamp verifies point �E thing within several seconds. As for removing 1 stop lamp, job it is easy to remove the stop lamp of the trunk hood.

Concerning the individual difference of the car, it has not tested yet, but value of resistance addition, with my experiment the 300k - changing at 430k ohm, sphere being cut off 1 normally sensing. As for the picture 360k ohm has been attached. When value of resistance is made small, the alarm lamp the point becomes easy to come, when value of resistance is enlarged, the alarm lamp the point becomes difficult to come.

16 # the lamp failure CP is an item turn of 4 types depending upon the rear fog attachment or specification, number of articles on the baseplate is different, but in principle it is the same thing. Furthermore, this lamp failure CP, sort of the photograph, not being complicated kind of ones which are imagined from the word, CP, on the baseplate normal resistance and the condenser something do with simple ones which are attached. Even the your solder ‚Ä if the one which can be used is possible anyone. As for cost, payment? If it makes another, being high, they are 5 Yen. One and the resistance to which procurement method of resistance does not understand desired one may mail from my one, is. In addition, because in the one which the your solder ‚Ä cannot be used, it purchased the lamp failure CP of standard with my one, as 1 part doing to send those of the remodelling being completed to desired one, after the exchanging also the method comes off of sending back the lamp failure CP which you remove. Because cost it is free, please request unhesitantly.

BananaGS

yes, tried this (various resitor values also)/, does not work, the US version is a lot more complicated that the one showed on that website.

I wrote down all the parts, when I get some free time, I look up these parts and see if I can reverve engineer the circuit.

Anh

Ag02M5

Banana...why don't you make some of these up and sell them for a small profit....hint hint!!!

Good deal.

Late.

JacobT

I have tried the resistors route. But the resistors just got too hot and burned out after a while. I finally gave up on this.

johnp66

It's a simple matter to remove the entire lens assembly from the rear brake light fixture. Follow Dex's directions to remove the light fixture from the rear deck. Once it's removed, the red lens assembly is only held by two plastic nibs at the bottom of the light fixture. Popping it out makes it much easier to tape off or even paint. I'm trying a fast-drying, black enamel paint on the red plastic lens. There are probably better options for painting the plastic lens, but I had a can of enamel handy.

UPDATE: After a week, there are no fumes from the black enamel paint. Looks fine.

Lvangundy

Why spend all the time and mess with the electronics?

Can't you just tint or put a piece of fit cardboard behind the red light so no light shines through?

The bootleg way is to remove the light (LOL) but then you get the warning lamp on the dash.

BananaGS

I am going to use a 1 resitor setup, instead of 2 (trying it out this weekend.)
Also, using 25W rating flame-proof resitors is over-killed for the circuit anyway.

JacobT, I don't have the heat problem using the setup, I've been running this for close to a year now. I've case the resitor is a metal project box and mount it in the trunk since my write up. I'll post some picture of the new box when i get a chance.

I am moving to a 1 resistor setup with higher resitivitive value, which would futher simplify circuit and reduce more heat.

will keep you update
Anh

legendary

not to sound stupid...what's the reason behind this?

Not flaming....just a ?

BananaGS

using the resistor to emulate the 3rd brake light.
thus, you can remove the 3rd brake light completely w/o a warning light on the dash.


Anh