Saiji

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...0%3D%26fvi%3D1

For a replacement sub for the stock ML sub in the rear deck. If this is good, what kind of amp do you guys recommend? Watts? Will I need a capacitor? Or whatever its called? Sorry, I'm audio supid. thanks!!

marshun

i suggest an alpine amp. theyre underrated and last pretty damn long and they dont get hot. for that sub i'd just get a 800-1000 watt amp. if yer pounding music really loud all the time then i'd suggest gettin the capacitor. if not, then thats fine too.

Saiji

Cool, thanks for the info

jtgs400

iTrader: (1)

Those are some very nice subs but I hope you're not planning on mounting that on the rear deck where the ML sub goes. First they're not designed for free-air use and second the rear deck is way too thin to mount such a large sub like that. I suggest getting a custom box made for it and being pushed with atleast 500 watts. The JL audio 500/1 comes to mind. If you want to stick with alpine i think they have a 650 watt mono amp that would be perfect for it as well.

Robert_J

I thought we covered this when I first joined this forum. Any sub can be used as a free air sub. Some work better than others but any sub can be used that way. If you want to predict the frequency response, just model it in WinISD or Unibox in a VERY large (500L) sealed box. Also, you won't need 1,000w. Most subs will reach their xmax at much less than their thermal power handling. I've modeled some Kickers here for different people. They can't handle 100w without reaching their mechanical limits at 30hz.

-Robert

Saiji

Thanks for all your inputs, and I can imagine how many times this topic came up....so....what sub is the best for replacing it??

if you can give me the model number and best amp for it, I'd be super greatful. Thanks in advance

Robert_J

You want a sub with a Qts of .5 to .7 or higher. You also want an Fs of around 25 to 30hz. A sub with these parameters will have a smooth slope on the frequency response. If you go with a Qts lower than .5 and a lower Fs, then the slope of the response is more shallow and there will be an emphasized low end. That's fine if you want a bass heavy monster or have a parametric EQ so you can flatten the response. With either option, you want to have as much xmax as possible. And you don't need much power. Since these are running "free-air", there is no resistance like when mounted in a box. The cone moves freely and that has both positives and negatives. No box to color the sound. Great. Easily driven to its mechanical limits. Bad. Like I mentioned earlier, you can simulate the driver mounted in the deck using WinISD or Unibox. Then you adjust the power field in the software until it reaches xmax at 30 hz (20 hz if you listen the bass heavy rap). That's what size amp to get.

If you can squeeze a 12" in there by using an adapter plate or enlarging the hole, then the Exodus Audio XJ-12 is a perfect choice.

-Robert

Saiji

thanks for the input robert. I was also told that this set up is good. is it?

Infinity Kappa 104.7w sub, Infinity Reference 1300a amp

Robert_J

Infinity makes some fine products but I know nothing about the two you listed. I like to stay with small manufacturers where you can talk to the engineers and designers. Kevin from DIY Cables can answer any question abou the sub I linked to. He designed it. Ben, Chris, Alex and the crew at ED. John at AE Speakers. Scott at Fi Car Audio. Chad at Ascendant Audio. You get more technical information and at the same time help out a small business.

-Robert