retrodrive

Why would one recommend a sub withought listening to one

Anyway, just like Eric said, Solos are not SQ subs. L7 has a little better SQ but that sub is still mostly SPL. Change out the subs and seal them to manufacturer specs. If you want both of both worlds of SQ and SPL get IDMAX or W7. I have heard both in different setups and those subs are impressive.

As far as deadening goes, you can purchase some RAAMmat which is the best Dynomat Extreeme replacement out there.

Mean Gene

Shawn - Let me tell ya about the rest of Percy's job!! He also takes professional pictures of half-naked models like Linda O'Neill!! What a tough job!! :eek:
I gotta side with Retro & CSH about the sound deadening - maybe Erick's is better built from the factory? I used Dynamat Xtreme on the trunk lid & rear deck lid as well as in my doors. The trunk rattled quite a bit before but is OK now & the door application was just to help reduce resonance. Might step up to the Deflex pads that Percy & Retro suggested to control the backwave. The rear deck won't hold the weight of (3) 10 subs, IMO. I built my box ( with dual 12's ) as tight to the bottom of the deck area & then used a " weather boot" from the local camper place to completely seal the box to the deck lid - now the bass can't go anywhere EXCEPT into the cabin via the cut-out deck. I recall helping another Member ( Michael Ray, I think ) with the same "bass is better with the trunk open" problem - I think he ended up firing the subs upwards & eliminating the cancellation Percy was concerned about. That's the problem with aiming the subs into the trunk - the bass becomes "punchy" & louder but with the loss of some SQ. Kicker subs are solid for SPL but inefficient & thus not that good for SQ, IMO. Try JL or ID - reasonably good values for the money or step up to Focal's or Velos ( if U can find them ).

sparky3

I read several reviews of all products, and I didn't want to spend more than $800 on 2 good 12"'s and the amp to push 'em.

I went with a JL Audio 500/1 (500 WRMS at any ohm load) and 2 Eclipse 88120 DVC (aluminum core, not titanium). Price weighed in around $780 bucks, all items brand new. I also bought a 50ft. roll of Dynamat Extreme, which will help the rear deck & trunklid.


I'll let you guys know how everything goes; I'm pretty excited!

Here's one of many good "user review" pages on the Eclipse subs:

http://www.carreview.com/PRD_3938_1808crx.aspx

and go to JL's website for the 500/1 AMP.


Shawn aka "sparky"

sparky3

Here's about the best image I can give you that best illustrates the box. The subs are directly facing one another, and the port is about 2 inches below where the factory 10" was. I removed the rear speakers and the rear carpeting today and got box measurements.

Does anyone have a rough idea how much air space this is (cubic feet wise?)

The dimension's are as follows:

Box width: 30 inches

Box height: 13.75 inches

Box lenth: 14.5 inches

The two 12" subs are exactly 10 inches apart.

Again, the port is around 2-3 inches and is sealed with silicone around the factory opening. Please see picture.


Thanks to all who respond!

Shawn

sparky3

Not sure why it's not inline, but here goes:

sparky3

Round 3, this time as a .jpg

Percy

^$&@%@!! Bandpass box. That's why there's no SQ!

Percy

sparky3

I have purchased a dual 12" box for around $50 that I will test both forward and rear facing subs.

The good news:

I have a lead on a 2nd JL Audio 500/1 Amp, so one amp a piece will be on each Eclipse 88120 DVC, running each speaker at 2 ohms. Constant 500 WRMS output.


What's everyone's thoughts on speakers facing forward or rear?

I listen to EVERYTHING, and I do mean everything. I want a box optimized for either Classical, Funk, or Rock. Nothing makes me smile more than a crisp clear tight snap and kickdrums and snares that actually SOUND like kickdrums & snares.

The bumpin' R Kelly crap is not my style any more (no offense to those who dig him). I want to throw of Jimi Hendrix's Band of Gypsy's and LOVE IT.


I'm thinking sealed box, leave the factory 10" hole remaining open, DYNAMAT the heck out of the trunk, and enjoy it.

Any thoughts to all I'd gain or lose by facing the 12"'s to the rear? Obviously it'll be a lower, boomier bass, but there's no way it could be as accurate, correct?


Thanks all, especially Percy.


Shawn

Kyle Harty

iTrader: (17)

Yup, and they probably didn't get the chamber sizes and tuning right for good response over a decent frequency range.

The best thing to do is keep moving the subs around and switching directions and see what suits your tastes and needs best. Facing the subs to the rear often minimizes cancellation, so that'll probably be loudest. I can't really say on accuracy, I've always fired back and have had no complaints; plus each system and car can react differently. Best of luck with the new install, I like the equipment choices with the JL and Eclipse, I'd probably stick to a sealed box for your needs.

sparky3

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Kyle Harty
[B]

Facing the subs to the rear often minimizes cancellation, so that'll probably be loudest.


Uhm, wouldn't facing the subs forwards REALLY stop cancellation? As well as provide the most accurate bass? I'm not looking to break the SPL meter or play strictly R&B or anything. I want hard hitting, clean, snappy accurate bass. How accurate is facing the subs backwards or up towards the rear deck? I'll open this with a new thread.

Shawn

CamRen

all i gotta say is



2 Kicker 12" square subwoofers
1 1000watt PPi Amp

and a ported box and you are gonna be breaking windows and setting off alarms....

man i heard this setup in a 2dr xplorer....
and this was 6 months ago.. i still get headache from thinking about that guys system... he owns 3 car audio shops in houston
1 in woodlans 1 on chimmney rock and this other one and im gonna get my system done just like his!!


just my .2cents

CSHFLW

an explorer and a GS are NOTHING alike...especially stereo wise...you would need to double the woofers and double the power to match his sound....

xsuperjoex

Percy...you are wrong buddy(please don't kill me..you know I love you man!!)...that is not a bandpass box

That is actually called an isobaric box (pronouced = Ice-oh-barik)

Isobaric boxes have very good sq because the subs are sealed in their own enclosure.

Bandpass looks like this:

Percy

xsuperjoex,

Ok...see what happens when you read nothing but op amp datasheets all day long??!?!?! Plus the college girls are a distraction... (I work at a local college...18 to 22 year olds all about!)

Percy

You win a "no prize".

xsuperjoex

Isobaric boxes are very hard to tune but can produce very good SQ but depending on the volume of air, can be one of the boomiest boxes ever made!!!...way louder than any bandpass