SupraCoup3

Alright, for my B-Day (the 19th!) my girlfriend, two of my best friends bought me a 12" MTX Sub w/ enclosure. Anyone know/have pictures of how to wire in the additional sub... I want to keep the stock 10" in also.


I know whiz from pics of your car you got 2 12" JLs If I remember. Anyone have pictures? I'll take some through the entire process and post them if people would so like.

1BomexLex

you would have to add an rca converter kit... and just tap that into the wires running to the stock sub...
that will be sure your MTX runs on similar frequencies as the stock one....... then run the RCAs to ur amp.... and run wires just like you would as though you were to wire up a new amp...
thats the best way i would say

Keith13b

iTrader: (3)

I'd tap into the low-level inputs of the factory amp, and run that to the input of you're new amp, then wire the MTX to the new amp, leaving the factory amp and sub seperated.

The factory sub is 1 ohm and you couldn't utilize the factory amp, unless you run the new speaker in series with your factory sub, but that would give you 5 ohms, and your system would actually be quieter.

Plus, a strong sub in the trunk will overpower the factory sub, and ratteling would occur. Finally, if you leave the factory sub in, there is little way for the sound of the new sub to enter the cabin. It would just shake the gas tank, and again, more rattling.


I'd loose the factory sub and wire in the MTX in its place. If it isn't loud enough, then get a new amp.



Keith

howiedoit

iTrader: (9)

Anyone know which wire is what in this picture? I need to wire up a new amp as well. I'm replacing the factory sub with a new 10" Pioneer free air. Please help...I'm a stereo newbie.

The picture is of the amp next to the sub...on the passenger side. That's the amp, right??

moshlub

If you do a search for me (my posts), you'll see that I've torn apart a factory amp and figured out all those wires. I don't remember what they are at the moment, so do a search for my posts.

howiedoit

iTrader: (9)

Hi!

I actually saved that post. I used it as a guide to remove my sub. It was REALLY helpful. Thanks!

But the wiring is still a little unclear for me. The colors didn't seem to correspond.

Here's what you said:

"Anyway, I removed the amplifier wire harness and figured out the wire schematic. For my car, 1997 SC300, the following is true:
small purple wire -- subwoofer signal negative
small light-blue wire -- subwoofer signal positive
large red -- 12 volts positive
large purple -- 12 volts amplifier remote turn-on
all black -- ground
-- all others are not used --"


OK...so in the picture, the biggest wires on the left (red and purple) are the positive and remote turn-on. Correct? But I don't know where the small purple and small light blue wires are. When I looked, I don't remember being able to find what you were talking about. If you could help some more, that'd be awesome.

So you just got some wires and hooked them up to the existing wires and ran them to the amp? What kind of wires did you use? Thanks!

moshlub

Yes, you are correct. The larger red and purple wires coming into the harness from the left side are the positive and remote. All the wires mentioned above are the ones coming into the harness.

What year is your SC? I'm not sure, but maybe they used different colors for different years. If you don't want to use your stock amp anymore, you can open it up and follow the wires to the circuit board. It's printed on the bottom side of the circuit board. They'll be something cryptic, but it's not that hard to figure out.

But yes ... I cut the wires at the harness and spliced 14-gauge wires into these wires for my aftermarket amp. On the amp end, I used an RCA kit from Radio Shack. Oh, but for best results, you don't want to use the existing power cable. I haven't run a new wire, but I intend to do it.

I left the shell of the stock amp in the hole to seal it.

howiedoit

iTrader: (9)

I have a 95 SC300. So for best results, would I run a new wire from the car battery to the amp? Is that how it works? Would the difference really be THAT noticeable? If not, I'd rather just use the stock wiring. I'm lazy.

So 14-gauge wires for all the wires? Even the speaker wires?

moshlub

Yes, I used 14-gauge for splicing all wires -- even the speaker wires.

As for the power wire, it really depends on your amp's current draw. If it's really high-powered, I would use something bigger and run it myself. I too was lazy and that's why I used the stock wire. For BEST RESULTS, I would re-run the wires. But I don't know if I will just yet. I might wait until I get new head unit.

I'm gonna settle for Nakamichi TD-45z (tape head unit) and try to get CD-45z and CD-changer too. With both these units, it would make up the double-DIN. I want to find an EQ, but Nakamichi doesn't make any. Anybody know an EQ that would match those units I mentioned?

You can see those units here:
http://www.nakamichi.com/auto/cassetteplayer/td_45.htm

933005spd

I would be extremly hesitant about wiring an aftermarket amp, especially a low ohm, high current amp (as most subwoofer amps are), to your existing power lead.

Instead, use the power lead as your remote turn on. Run a 4 gauge or so power cable from the trunk along the driver side, through the gromet in the firewall up into the engine bay and to the battery. Make sure you install a fuse, or circut breaker inline about 1' from the battery.

You will need to remove the inner wheel well, front black fender trim to run the wire easily.

Check my post for stereo hack on my website.

moshlub

I am using an Orion Cobalt 2100 amp off of that lead. Other than some alternator whine, it seems to be okay. Oh ... my amp's adjustment is only 1/4 of its full sweep though.

SupraCoup3

thanks for the input guys... I'm gonna have circuit city wire in the amp and sub... that way I can yell at them if the screw up! The really good news is I got all the stuff for wicked cheap.

1) 12" MTX 500 Watt sub - FREE (Bday present) Retail?
2) Monster cable power kit - $30 -- Retail: $90
(4 Gauge wire etc)
3) RCA adapter - $10 -- Retail: $40
4) MTX 4200 AMP (400 Watts) - $174.59 -- Retail: $340

howiedoit

iTrader: (9)

10" Pioneer Free Air Sub: <$50
Pionner 150W Amp...wish I could get a 400W one : <$40 from ebay
Wiring: need to buy...

Total: <$100

moshlub

Me? Hehehe ...

Orion Cobolt 2100 -- free
200W RMS/400W Max Pioneer 10" free air sub -- $79
wiring -- had some left over from previous car -- free
labor -- done myself -- free

Replaced the sub with Pioneer. The sub sits right on the fuel cell. Moved the factory "surround" amp to just under the CD-changer. Put my Orion amp in the "surround" amp's original location. Clean install. I get rattles now, where I personally believe it's the rear window. Others say it's the third brake light, but it's not that. Other say it's the rear deck cover. I haven't checked that (too lazy). I just turn it down.

SDSC300

ug.. I dont know about the your circuit cities out there but I will never have them wire anything for me .. tried that 2x you think I would have learned after the 1st .. but they eneded up breaking one of my vents and scratching up my dash .. I made them replace it though .. but still I dont trust them they wired the subs wrong in my accord too, ya anyone else hate ciruit city? I would go just about anywhere else just MO.
you can pick up the cable kit 10Guage for like $20shipped hereaudiodealer
and I dont know about the 4200 MTX but the 4202 has Speaker level inputs which means you dont need a RCA adapter unless you dont need your 10-40$
anyways good luck! let us know how it turns out!