Neofate

iTrader: (1)

Thank you PK.

*Edit -- I've been glancing over alarms, head units, speakers, amps, wiring harnesses, etc. -- I noticed the only wiring harness that would even remotely be considered for a Lexus is this: http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=18419 -- I just assumed because Lexus is a Toyota .. is that the right harness? And is that all you would need to install any aftermarket Head unit to the factory harness? Seems too cheap and simple wiring wise.. But would be nice. -- Edit end**


The whole new 'deck' is because the car has a 6disc changer in the trunk, but we are not sure if it is broken or not. Obviously if it is non functional I will need to get an aftermarket head unit. I also wouldn't mind a doubledin aftermarket head unit because it would look so much 'better' and more modern than the factory radio/tape deck.

Alot of rewiring, hrmm,.. True -- But the way it used to work at *alot* of smaller audio/video shops.. was if you bought the product there , they installed it, free. The others, larger stores, would install for a nominal fee. Maybe 49.95, or 89.95 or some such.

If I do purchase an aftermarket deck from a shop, and can find the equivalent of close to stock replacement for the sub -- Is it feasible that the shop would install the deck, amp, and sub for 'free' since I bought it all there. (Or does that just not happen anymore?) -- If not, would installation be more than 'normal' because it is a 'Lexus' ? I wouldn't figure it is a whole lot more complicated than most modern cars these days, and they would be used to the wiring. Hopefully if I spend 700-1000$ at the shop they would go ahead and install the equipment for $50 bucks, or free like the other shops I used a while back.

Ok, you say I can pick up that 8" sub that is 200-300Watts RMS.. but to measure to make sure it fits. (I assume you just browsed the web for a 2-ohm 8" 'cheaper' sub..) -- I will do that. However, you then say to get the fosgate p325.1 that runs 300watts RMS, but to get the 'sub D2 perfectooo' -- What do you mean by sub D2 perfectooo' ? lol.. Sorry if it is obvious, but are you just saying that is the perfect amp for the sub, because , obviously, it is 300Watts RMS, the max output of the sub you mention?

As for the wiring kit, that should come with the install -- If not free.. that is part of the ,oh, 50$ or 75$ install fee --

So with something like that I am looking at 250-300$ for the sub,.. with installation.

If I got an aftermarket cdplayer/deck -- Could I get a reasonably decent cdplayer/radio for 200$ ? Less even? Because I know there are alot of units out there that have a million features and LCD's etc etc.. I just need the function and even the Walmart stock looks better than factory. (Not that I'm going to buy my headunit from Walmart, just an example).

The tint is no big deal.. I would put on a darker tint, but I got a ticket for having (measured by the cops device) 7% tint (which is practically black) on a former car of mine. Since then I have complied with the 'tint law' keeping it 35%. Not sure if that law is even enforced any longer, but one ticket for it and it isn't worth it

I just mention tint because I am getting that done for sure, and alot of Audio shops do that as well.. as it is part of the 'package' alot of people get done.

I would think they would throw in 'free or cheap install' with a customer spending enough money.. Like I mentioned.. Getting a sub/amp/headunit and tint all done. So purchase for retail, and installation is on them.. give them a day with the car and its all done and ready to go -- I know my huge system I had before took 6 hours to install one day,.. so this shouldn't be but a few hour install at most (by the pro's).

So an example breakdown:

(at a local shop)

Sub: $100

Amp: $150

Headunit: $250

Tint: $250

Installation = Free

Total:
$750 + tax.. About $825.00

Sound reasonable?


Lastly, do you happen to know about the alarm status on the 1994 LS 400's? Did they all come with one? Was it an extra option? Did none of that model come with one?

I appreciate your help.

Robert_J

Free installs are not free. The cost is built into the price of the equipment so that means there is a set amount reserved for the install. The faster they get you in and out the more money they make. "Free" installs, plus guys working frantically does not equal a quality install.

For example, I put a 10" sub and a 600w amp in my cousin's GMC truck. A friend had gone to a local shop and had a 500w amp and a pair of 10's installed in his Chevy (same style truck). The difference was the install. The shop spliced into the back speakers and used LOC (line out converters) to feed the sub amp. That took them 15 minutes at most. What they didn't know was that the factory amp blocked a lot of the bass from the rear speakers and sent it to the factory sub. There was very little difference between stock and the addition of a pair of 10's.

I purchased the appropriate adapter that plugged into the factory amp fed the new amp with line level audio. It took 2 hours to remove the center console and plug in the adapter. My hands were a scratched, bloody mess when I was done. But that single 10" sub rocked that truck. A real installer could have done my job in an hour and the adapter cost $80. But that was the correct way to install a sub in those particular models.

-Robert

PK_Celsior

iTrader: (18)

you can use the harness from crutchfield. but you are going to have to bypass the original amp you have. i tapped all the wires into my original wires. i put rca plugs for the speakers. so i could use my original stock amp to power my speakers. so the toyota/lexus hareness will semi work. i had to buy a few toyota/lexus wire harness to implement this.

you can always look around for a used cd changer for your ls400. there are many people on this thread that are selling their oem cd changer. look around :].

its very hard to say how shops charge you. they more trick you than give you a helping hand. im cool with one of the shop owners in san diego. so everytime i come in they always hook me up with all the stuff. it just depends with the people you deal with. Like robert_j said they are just trying to rush out your car. so far i havent brought my car to an audio shop. i do everythin myself for audio installation, because i dont want it to be half assed. Im pretty sure they will still charge you regular on installation.

eD subs are bang for the buck. they are cheap speakers but they come with quality. its only seems cheap for now, because the company is trying to build a repuation for itself. it seems like its going to be taking out a lot of company. D2 stands for dual 2 ohm. which is the load you need so the fosgate amp can power it fully. so the sub will be a range of 200 - 300 watt rms with the amp 325 watt rms at 2ohms.

i never really heard of people getting free wiring kits. where have i been. i rather go pay for the power wiring, than get some cheap stuff that might heat up and catch your car on fire.

i havent really seen audio shop throw in freebies anymore or in socal. Theres to many places competiting. so they just trying to squeeze out every dollar they can. my friend got his car rewired and got his deck to sitting flush. which is pretty much a 15 minute job and he had to pay 150 bucks for it. so everything might be different in your home town.

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

I gotcha -- Bottom line, is if you want this done right, do it yourself.

Thing is I don't know exactly how the factory speakers work. I mean, what is each speaker running at? I know its 2-ohms, which is sort of non traditional, Car stereo's usually run 4-ohm's no?

The lower the ohm's the more power.. so its good in this case..

But,.. for example, if I bought a wiring kit, and a head unit double din.. Could I wire everything into it from the factory wiring? I'm talking sub/external speakers etc.

The sub uses a factory amp, do the other regular speakers use an amp "off" of the headunit? Would I have to specially wire whatever aftermarket headunit into 'both' amps , or can I run the 4 regular speakers off the amp built into the headunit?

I noticed the Toyota harness does not include a 'sub-out' -- But there must be a way to wire this from the factory head unit.

I don't have a problem figuring out how to wire certain things,.. and even running from Battery to my new deck isn't a big deal. I hate removing door panels and that sort of stuff. I hate trying to run wire under carpet front to back. Which is why It would be nice to use as much existing wiring as possible.

You said you used the stock amp -- If I did that, sounds like I could get an IB/Free air sub that ran off the stock wattage rating ..

As for sound shops, you are right,.. If it is free install, of course it is built into the price. I know how it works -- My previous system I had a friend who worked at the shop as a salesman. He got me refurbished amps for 100$ a piece, and the install was free, but he had them take care of my ride. Things were done right, and with larger than needed cables and so forth. The installers were proud of the install when I came to pick it up. I think it sort of surpised them how good it sounded for two JL-12's. 2 MBQuarts, and a couple amps.

But, I don't have any connections these days.. I'm the 'friend' who is handy,.. who knows how to fix things, install things, and I'm a computer expert. I know I can fully wire this stuff, the only complication is knowing how the factory unit is being run, so I don't run into snags. One could feasibly wire it up a 'normal' way, but it not sound right or work right due to the way the factory is utilizing. (One amp? 2 amps?)

I have one friend who has an older brother in his mid 30's who is really good with wiring and especially good with fabrication. He did the tint on my 300ZX, and if you go to his house he builds/fabricates all sorts of stuff. I know he would be happy to help me run this stuff. I also have another friend who is an electrical engineer,.. Though he is a little crazy. So its a toss up.

I'm positive we could get things run, and working.. but at what cost? lol!

Will I have rips in my carpet? Will I have wires sticking out of holes/gaps? You never know.. hehe.

So it is a toss up between that and professional install.

Do it myself = Spend alot of time, take our time, and hopefully are doing a good job. No cost, no rush. -- I can pick any brand/part -- Not limited to offerings of store. I can get my DoubleDin/Amp/Sub, and even alarm for under a grand -- Heck while I'm at it I could probably go ahead grab another amp and put in 4 speakers to completely redo the entire sound system for under a grand if I carefully bought my components and was going to wire myself.

Professional Install = Costs hundreds. -- No gaurantee it is done right. -- Likely a rush job, due to nature of the business.. Quantity over quality. -- Limited to the brands sold in store if buying from store installed at. Higher install price if bringing it OTHER equipment just for install.

So let us pretend I am a master installer -- Shh, no laughing.

Someone set me up a set of links of a system as CHEAP as possible with the sub STILL being IB/Freeair fitting in the stock location. All 4 other speakers replaced, a good Double-Din CD-player, and any amps that will be needed.

I want to see how you guys would price it out..

Also, I don't know the size of the speakers other than sub in the LS400 1994 model. So this would help me get an idea. All speakers run on 2-ohm load? Is there a separate amp for the 2door/rear speakers? Or do they run off headunit?

I see speakers starting at 15$ -- (Obviously way too cheap) -- But I bet 100-125$ buys me 4 better than stock speakers that don't require too much power.. which = using Headunit to amp (which would be fantastic) -- and makes wiring much easier. Because its just a harness to headunit for 4 speakers. Sub is the only potential difficult wiring -- (Is there anyway to utilize the factory wiring to power an aftermarket sub that is of the same dimension? -- That will sound ok?)

To be honest:

Sub - 75$

Sub Amp - $125

DoubleDin Deck - $200

4 Speakers - $125

(I see alot of speakers that run from 25W to 80W.. alot of Decks can push that power x 4 ) -- IE: Some Cerwin Vega's that run 30W, and Pioneer's that run on 50W. -- Have noticed alot of Decks that push 80wx4 .. Maybe its a terrible idea to use the decks power though.

Lastly, I asked this in another thread but only certain threads get responses here, not real crowded in here. -- Recommendations on DoubleDin Decks for 94 LS 400? Is the LS 400's doubledin slot a standard size? IE: Do all doubledin aftermarket decks fit the 'same' in this slot? Are there some better than others that fit the lexus LS400 better than others? That sort of thing.

Robert/PK I appreciate your answers.. I know it is alot of questions, but I'm learning.

Take care,

Robert_J

Did you pull out your factory speakers to determine that they are 2 ohm models? I found out that the '07 ES 350 has the following:
Center dash x1: 65 mm, 10 Ohm, 10 W (20 W*)
Front tweeter x2: 25 mm, 4 Ohm, 25 W (50 W)
Front "Woofer" (yeah, right) x2: 160 mm, 4 Ohm, 21 W (50 W)
Rear door full range x2: 160 mm, 4 Ohm, 21 W (50 W)
Sub woofer on rear shelf x1: 200 mm, 25 Ohm x2 coils, 30 W / coil (60 W)

It's a mixture of 4 ohm and extremely high resistance speakers.

As for the sub, the head unit probably feeds an amp that contains the crossover as well as the amp. That's where you get the sub out. I've read about people tapping into the line level signal from the head unit. You would need to send that to an multi-channel amp with a built in crossover or an external crossover and then feed multiple amp channels.

A deck doing 80x4? Is the the IHBL rating? (If Hit By Lightning) Without a switched power supply, 12v DC will not convert into 80w at 4 ohms.

Do a little more research on here are other Lexus forums. Find the factory speaker sizes. I bet there is a build log or two somewhere. That makes things much easier. Or you can price speakers at Crutchfield.com. They will list the speakers that fit. If you buy a head unit from them, they send instructions to install it as well as instructions for door speakers/deck speakers.

Are you wanting both front and rear speakers? Most quality installs don't use rear speakers or they may use the old factory speakers for rear fill. I'm against any rear speakers at all. I want my soundstage to be in front of me, not behind. I don't go to a concert and just listen with my back to the stage. Are you looking at coaxials or component speakers?

-Robert

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

Was just asking here as I figured someone would know the specs on an LS400 1994 model, with the Pioneer Deck. I will be able to find that information somewhere if no one knows.

I agree,.. the rears mean nothing to me except for fill sound.

I was simply saying that if I install myself I can afford a great deal more equipment because buying online I can get equipment MUCH cheaper, and there will be zero install fee.

I assume I will be going with Coaxials because I don't want to fabricate or cut holes anywhere for the separates (tweeters etc).

I do have a set of MBQuart Coaxial 6.5" Mids with 1" Tweeters wrapped up in my closet. They are brand new, but take 75Watts a peice.

I don't figure they would fit into this lexus LS400 at all.. *maybe* if I did some heavy cutting and such inside the door panels.

They were my only mids/highs in my 300ZX, but that car was a 2-seater/2door and much smaller.

If these Quarts would somehow be squeezed into the Front speaker area -- I could amp those, and buy the IB Sub and amp it.

As for multichannel, No, I have no ambition to make this any more complicated than necessary. I ran mono on two subs before, each had a dedicated amp -- I would run mono to this sub as well.

However, if possible, I would like the sub to be controllable from the new Head unit I purchased. (I assume this is not a problem) -

The only sub specs I see on Head units are Sub Pre-amp outs. What am I looking for in specs for decks that will allow control of my sub .. volume wise I suppose' ?

Anyhow, yes the 80x4 is generally a Max power, so yes, heh, it isn't the RMS spec. I find generally the RMS spec for these doubledin's are 20-25Watts.

Given this, are there any 'better than factory' speakers that I could run off a 20-25Watt RMS headunit that is doubledin. (It seems the DoubleDin can push a touch more power than single because they have so much room to put in hardware.. all varies though) -- If it is at all possible for me to get some decent speakers, even all the way around (why not?) -- that would run off an aftermarket DoubleDin deck and sound better than stock, then also run an aftermarket direct replacement IB/free-air 8inch sub .. that is amped (or would be fantastic to run it off the stock 40watt.. but one amp is ok for the sub) -- Then I might get what I'm after.

You have to understand, while it would be nice to have a blow your ears off sound system,.. I'm just looking for a clean sound, not a bass machine. Factory isn't bad in these cars compared to many other vehicles. So I can either work off factory and run a new sub..

Or go ahead and throw in slightly better than factory speakers that might run off the Head units power that will sound better than factory.

*Basically how hard is it to sound better than the factory 4 speakers? -- Seems to me spending a hundred or two on speakers, and a good headunit would smoke the factory 4 speakers (that are old).. and replacing the 8" sub with an aftermarket IB/Freeair and amping it would make the whole thing sound a good bit better. But no one 'outside' of the car is going to think I have some great system.

So as I asked before, if you or anyone else could post some links of some examples of speakers that would be better than factory to go along with a headunit that would be fantastic.

Lastly, as I asked earlier -- What about the DoubleDin sizing? *Refer to previous post for my DoubleDin sizing question* -- (This questions seems fairly simple? Is it not?)

Thanks for the reply -- I should be picking up my car tommorow or the next day, from there I can judge just what is what alot better obviously.

PK_Celsior

iTrader: (18)

If you go with coaxial setup you will be fine just find speakers that drop in the 25watt - 35watt rms range. all stock speakers in the ls400 have a 4 ohm resistance. i believe the speaker since inside your car is 4". you can go with a company called powerbass, and etc. to put in the sub you will be pulling out the old 8inch subwoofer. you will use a line input converter on the stock sub wire. so you can plug rca wires into a new amp which will support your new sub. THIS WILL ONLY WORK WITH THE STOCK DECK. when you get an after market deck this option will be obsolete. so with this installation all your doing is running a power wire from your battery to the trunk. one more wire for the REM. so two wires to run through your car. everything else will be in your trunk. the 4" speakers will just drop in. so its not a lot of work at all if you keep your stock deck. you wont be spending a lot of money. just money on power wire, an IB sub, an amp, and lo/hi input converter.

http://xplayazplayzonx.multiply.com/...m/30/Car_Apart

check out my website. it shows my car all apart and all the audio stuff i did. you can see all the wires running and everything. but this is me fullly replacing everything. so you see tha stages i been through. click on the pictures you wanna see than zoom if you want it bigger.

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

Great stuff Celsior..

Let us take everything you just mentioned:

A) New IB Sub -- (Amp that supports the new sub)

B) Speakers that run 4ohms that run 25Watts RMS or so. (aftermarket, 4 of them)

C) AFTERMARKET doubledin cdplayer (That runs 4x20-25watts RMS)


So it is exactly what you mention, except I will *NOT* be using the stock headunit.

With this method can I:

1) Use the existing wiring for the 4 regular speakers? So I just use a aftermarket wiring harness to connect the aftermarket DoubleDin Headunit to the factory wiring? -- And that will cover the output to the 4 regular speakers to the aftermarket headunit/cdplayer ?

2) This aftermarket harness simply saves time on wiring, no splicing etc.. it plugs right into factory -- But I DO know it does NOT cover the sub wire.

Given that, what do I need to be looking for in an aftermarket headunit (cdplayer) that will allow me control of my sub-woofer from the buttons on the new headunit? (Simple EQ controls, or at least a seperate volume/output level for the sub) -- I basically at least want a signal going to the sub of course, without a wire running from Aftermarket headunit to the new sub it , of course, won't work! -- So what extra step must I take here to get a signal to the sub?

3) I will be purchasing an aftermarket Amp probably 200-300watt's RMS at 2ohms, and an IB/Freeair sub in the same range. -- So I will *not* be using the factory sub at all. In fact all I wish to use of the factory equipment is:

I simply will be left with factory wiring to use , amps and speakers plus headunit will be *not* used in my setup.

Given all of this, How many wires will I now need to run?


Bottom line is this:

How many lines will I have to run with everything aftermarket.

-Aftermarket Doubledin CDplayer
-Aftermarket speakers (fronts/rears and sub)
-Aftermarket Amp for Sub
-DoubleDin CDplayer will power the 4 aftermarket speakers

I am hoping , by the grace of god, that I can somehow utilize the factory wiring for the 4 speakers I drop in the doors. So I drop in speaker, wire it up there locally, put in Aftermarket CDplayer and the wiring harness adapter will take care of sending those speakers the ~20-25Watts from headunit. (Saving me the pain of running minimum 4 wires for the speakers)

-- I ask this because I don't know if the stock wiring has anything between whats at the stock head unit and the speakers. If it is just speaker wire, then it will work fine. If there are amps or crossovers between the stock headunit and the regular speakers then it will , obviously, effect trying to use that stock wiring for aftermarket speakers.

--I would also like to use the stock wire that goes into the stock head unit for the stock sub. If I can use that wire to give the aftermarket Amplifier the signal for the subwoofer then I am in business.

*If that can't be accomplished and I have to run a separate wire from headunit through the car to the aftermarket amplifier -- Please let me know, and tell me generally why?

I would think you could use existing wire, and just get to the stock amp for sub and bypass it.. All I'm looking for here is the signal from headunit. The amplifier will take care of the power, and I will run a wire from Amplifier mounted in trunk to the sub in close proximity.

So I'm hoping the following is true:

With all the above listed aftermarket setup (everything is aftermarket)

Wiring wise I need:

A 8gauge power wire from battery terminal to the fuse box for the amplifier going to subwoofer.

RCA's from amplifier to Subwoofer itself (I imagine) -- some type of wiring anyhow.

And that is basically it. I utilize stock wiring for other 4 speakers, and stock wiring for the signal going into the Amplifier for my sub.

That sounds too easy, so tell me why I can't use the stock wiring now.. (..cry)

Thanks,