Sub/Brands etc --
02-10-08, 10:38 PM
#1
Sub/Brands etc --
Hey guys --
I am to pick up my 1994 LS400 from the shop Wednesday or so this week. It has the factory 'Pioneer' head unit. No nakam... But it still sounds pretty good stock.
My last sytem I built when I was 16 -- and kept it for 3-4yrs.
This was about 10yrs ago. At that time, I went with very good brands on all equipment.. though it has been a decade so I am unsure if these brands still are made, and if they are still 'good'.
The system I had was a custom box, no port holes. With two JL Audio 12" Subs, (JLW6) versions, as oppossed to the W1's, and I believe they had a midgrade W3.. been a while. (Basically higher RMS, and a much bigger magnet).
I amped the 12's with two Kenwood amps, each put out a very clean low distortion ratio 100Watts "RMS". The bass from this system was surprisingly freakish. It was clean, and sounded better than 90% of the systems I came across. People always asked me what I did to get the sound I did for such low wattage, etc.
Bottom line reason this sounded so good, and clean, and produced the DB's it did was because it was rear mounted in my 1991 300ZX. The hatchback in that car made the accoustics for the subs perfect. IE: If this same sub setup was put in a trunk of another car it wouldn't sound nearly as good.. etc.
I left the rears stock.. I believe I didn't even have them operational. It was a 2-seater, so that wasn't really necessary. I bought a mid-grade Kenwood CD player for the head unit. Then the Mid's were 6 1/2 MBQUARTS. (These were the top of the line Mid's at the time ) -- At the time I got them for a deal, but even at that the pair was $350. Built in crossovers, etc.
Each of the MB Quart 6 1/2 mids were mounted in each door kick panel. They took 75Watts a piece RMS. (Nearly the amount the subs pulled).
I used a single kenwood, 150Watt amped bridged/split to run 75Wx2 to these two mids. Again, low THD.
I also added a relaltively inexpensive 120$ crossover, and dialed the subs down to a very, very low cross over point to not pick up any of the mids and definitely no highs. I also cut the mids off at a certain point up the spectrum as well.
It as dialed in well.. Used 4 Gauge cable to power the Amps. (little overkill, but my friend worked in the install shop).
Anyhow -- So the brands we are talking about then were Kenwood for Head unit and amps. MB Qaurt for Mids, and JL Audio for the Subs. Simple setup, but very very impressive and clean.
Now..
As I said the stock system in this 94 LS400 sounds decent.. Speakers aren't blown or distorted, and all work. However, I'd like to give it a little punch.
Nothing like I had.. I don't want 2 12's riding down the street setting off car alarms as I go through a parking deck.
I'd like to be subtle.
I was thinking either a single 8" woofer/sub, or 10" woofer/sub.
I'm debating if I went with an 8" sub, just for a little kick.. if maybe it would not over power the factory speakers and it would just give the sound I am after.
However, If I do need to go ahead and throw in new speakers all the way around.. I will.
If I am to do that, I suppose I will be going with a replacement headunit as well.
Now, the factory headunit is double DIN (very large). Is it relatively simple to purchase a head unit that will fit that large slot these days?
I still have the MB Quarts from the first system.. They are 6 1/2'" mids. Is that size possible to use in the front or rear of the LS400? Or are they just of no use?
Basically I want a clean, rock punch. Something responsive -- The 8 or 10 just to give the bass, but punchy clean bass. Fast response time that can keep up with bands like Chevelle, or slipknot.
I do not want the 'Boooom Booooom' laggy over powering bass I did when I was a kid.
Nor do I need a 100+ dB system. I'll crank it up to show off a little to a friend every now and then, but I'll keep it at a reasonable level most of the time for normal listening.
So if you had a customer (or were me).. and wanted to get out as cheap as possible, but with good clean sound.. just a few steps up from factory.
What approach would you use?
IE: Give me some example systems -- Say I would keep your factory speakers, and go with this 8" sub that is X RMS, and grab this amp. You should be pleased with it.
Or Go ahead and grab this series of speakers from X company. They are X RMS -- (Your head unit should power them just fine if you use X headunit) -- Grab this 8 or 10 inch sub (brand/model), and this amp at X RMS.
You get the idea.
I'm not looking to spend a fortune here either.. If I could get out with like 500-700$ that would be ideal. I'm not looking to spend 1500+$ on a system.
An absolute must: The bass will have to be trunk mounted I know (the sub) -- I do not want a rattling trunk at all. So if that dictates the size and power of the sub, then so be it. I just want a bit of punch, without boom rattling the trunk to death.
Ideas?
I don't have to have the fanciest headunit either.. Just a decent brand, that plays single disc CD, radio, and MP3 compatibility. I don't need a fancy pop out LCD screen etc. Just something that fits the slot nicely, and can play the CD's/Radio etc.
Something has to be possible even in such a tight budget. So you audiophiles help me out here
Thanks so much
I am to pick up my 1994 LS400 from the shop Wednesday or so this week. It has the factory 'Pioneer' head unit. No nakam... But it still sounds pretty good stock.
My last sytem I built when I was 16 -- and kept it for 3-4yrs.
This was about 10yrs ago. At that time, I went with very good brands on all equipment.. though it has been a decade so I am unsure if these brands still are made, and if they are still 'good'.
The system I had was a custom box, no port holes. With two JL Audio 12" Subs, (JLW6) versions, as oppossed to the W1's, and I believe they had a midgrade W3.. been a while. (Basically higher RMS, and a much bigger magnet).
I amped the 12's with two Kenwood amps, each put out a very clean low distortion ratio 100Watts "RMS". The bass from this system was surprisingly freakish. It was clean, and sounded better than 90% of the systems I came across. People always asked me what I did to get the sound I did for such low wattage, etc.
Bottom line reason this sounded so good, and clean, and produced the DB's it did was because it was rear mounted in my 1991 300ZX. The hatchback in that car made the accoustics for the subs perfect. IE: If this same sub setup was put in a trunk of another car it wouldn't sound nearly as good.. etc.
I left the rears stock.. I believe I didn't even have them operational. It was a 2-seater, so that wasn't really necessary. I bought a mid-grade Kenwood CD player for the head unit. Then the Mid's were 6 1/2 MBQUARTS. (These were the top of the line Mid's at the time ) -- At the time I got them for a deal, but even at that the pair was $350. Built in crossovers, etc.
Each of the MB Quart 6 1/2 mids were mounted in each door kick panel. They took 75Watts a piece RMS. (Nearly the amount the subs pulled).
I used a single kenwood, 150Watt amped bridged/split to run 75Wx2 to these two mids. Again, low THD.
I also added a relaltively inexpensive 120$ crossover, and dialed the subs down to a very, very low cross over point to not pick up any of the mids and definitely no highs. I also cut the mids off at a certain point up the spectrum as well.
It as dialed in well.. Used 4 Gauge cable to power the Amps. (little overkill, but my friend worked in the install shop).
Anyhow -- So the brands we are talking about then were Kenwood for Head unit and amps. MB Qaurt for Mids, and JL Audio for the Subs. Simple setup, but very very impressive and clean.
Now..
As I said the stock system in this 94 LS400 sounds decent.. Speakers aren't blown or distorted, and all work. However, I'd like to give it a little punch.
Nothing like I had.. I don't want 2 12's riding down the street setting off car alarms as I go through a parking deck.
I'd like to be subtle.
I was thinking either a single 8" woofer/sub, or 10" woofer/sub.
I'm debating if I went with an 8" sub, just for a little kick.. if maybe it would not over power the factory speakers and it would just give the sound I am after.
However, If I do need to go ahead and throw in new speakers all the way around.. I will.
If I am to do that, I suppose I will be going with a replacement headunit as well.
Now, the factory headunit is double DIN (very large). Is it relatively simple to purchase a head unit that will fit that large slot these days?
I still have the MB Quarts from the first system.. They are 6 1/2'" mids. Is that size possible to use in the front or rear of the LS400? Or are they just of no use?
Basically I want a clean, rock punch. Something responsive -- The 8 or 10 just to give the bass, but punchy clean bass. Fast response time that can keep up with bands like Chevelle, or slipknot.
I do not want the 'Boooom Booooom' laggy over powering bass I did when I was a kid.
Nor do I need a 100+ dB system. I'll crank it up to show off a little to a friend every now and then, but I'll keep it at a reasonable level most of the time for normal listening.
So if you had a customer (or were me).. and wanted to get out as cheap as possible, but with good clean sound.. just a few steps up from factory.
What approach would you use?
IE: Give me some example systems -- Say I would keep your factory speakers, and go with this 8" sub that is X RMS, and grab this amp. You should be pleased with it.
Or Go ahead and grab this series of speakers from X company. They are X RMS -- (Your head unit should power them just fine if you use X headunit) -- Grab this 8 or 10 inch sub (brand/model), and this amp at X RMS.
You get the idea.
I'm not looking to spend a fortune here either.. If I could get out with like 500-700$ that would be ideal. I'm not looking to spend 1500+$ on a system.
An absolute must: The bass will have to be trunk mounted I know (the sub) -- I do not want a rattling trunk at all. So if that dictates the size and power of the sub, then so be it. I just want a bit of punch, without boom rattling the trunk to death.
Ideas?
I don't have to have the fanciest headunit either.. Just a decent brand, that plays single disc CD, radio, and MP3 compatibility. I don't need a fancy pop out LCD screen etc. Just something that fits the slot nicely, and can play the CD's/Radio etc.
Something has to be possible even in such a tight budget. So you audiophiles help me out here
Thanks so much
02-11-08, 06:47 AM
#2
Lexus Champion
the thing you have to keep in mind is thta the fuel tank is between the trunk and back seat in the LS. this cuts down on your bass immensely. i have 2 12" pioneers witha diamond audio 1200w rms amp and it's not any louder than my wife's single 12" on 150w in her wrx.
however, since you're not looking for stupid loud, i experimented with a 10" audiopipe in a ported box off that diamond amp i have. the 10" i normally have in my grand cherokee and it's fine.
i can hear it pretty well, i think it gets loud enough for what you're looking for and it doesn't take up much space. it is in a ported box though.
so basically, i'd go for a good 10" sub in a ported box, it will still sound tight if it's a good sub, witha lot of power. look for subs by RE, diamond audio, Memphis, audiopipe, JL is still good. get one of the higher end subs though so it will handle the power.
for an amp, i'd look for about 800w rms, something by US amps, diamond, memphis, jbl, kicker
the front speaker s are 4". i'm putting 5.25" diamonds in my front doors but i have to make a custom mdf baffle and some other stuff to make ti work. for straight bolt in, stick with 4". you can keep the stock tweeters since most 4" are gong to be coax's anyway.
foir a head unit, i'd look for a double din. it will botl right to the stock bracket and you'll just need to make a couple little plastic fill ins for the sides. i'm hooked on the jdm head units on ebay right now, more features and they look cooler than their usdm counterparts.
however, since you're not looking for stupid loud, i experimented with a 10" audiopipe in a ported box off that diamond amp i have. the 10" i normally have in my grand cherokee and it's fine.
i can hear it pretty well, i think it gets loud enough for what you're looking for and it doesn't take up much space. it is in a ported box though.
so basically, i'd go for a good 10" sub in a ported box, it will still sound tight if it's a good sub, witha lot of power. look for subs by RE, diamond audio, Memphis, audiopipe, JL is still good. get one of the higher end subs though so it will handle the power.
for an amp, i'd look for about 800w rms, something by US amps, diamond, memphis, jbl, kicker
the front speaker s are 4". i'm putting 5.25" diamonds in my front doors but i have to make a custom mdf baffle and some other stuff to make ti work. for straight bolt in, stick with 4". you can keep the stock tweeters since most 4" are gong to be coax's anyway.
foir a head unit, i'd look for a double din. it will botl right to the stock bracket and you'll just need to make a couple little plastic fill ins for the sides. i'm hooked on the jdm head units on ebay right now, more features and they look cooler than their usdm counterparts.
02-11-08, 09:38 AM
#3
Lead Lap
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Yea our cars are just way too well insulated. My brother has 2 10" JL old school @W6 powered with a 500/1 in a integra. You can feel the bass tingle your scalp and feel it punching you through the seats. We then tried the same setup in my gs. The bass had a lot less output and impact. While the rear view mirror in his looks like it was going to rattle right off, mine just shows a slight blur when the bass hits.
So basically you're going to need pretty large subs and a lot of power to push them to get some decent bass into the cabin. Unless you do a custom setup where they can channel all the bass directly out of the stock sub hole.
So basically you're going to need pretty large subs and a lot of power to push them to get some decent bass into the cabin. Unless you do a custom setup where they can channel all the bass directly out of the stock sub hole.
02-11-08, 11:01 AM
#4
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Subwoofer Myths touch on your "fast bass", "driver size", "magnet size" and "RMS" comments.
As for driver manufacturers, look at the ones listed above as well as Audiopulse, Fi Car Audio, Sound Solutions Audio, Ascendant Audio, ED, Stereo Integrity, Sundown, Dayton (by Parts Express) or Image Dynamics. I know that most of these aren't your mainstream brands but you can also get help directly from the guys that design and build them.
As for your trunk rattling - any sub will make your trunk rattle when you hit the trunk's resonant frequency. To lower that outside of the sub's passband, you need to use a dampening material.
-Robert
As for driver manufacturers, look at the ones listed above as well as Audiopulse, Fi Car Audio, Sound Solutions Audio, Ascendant Audio, ED, Stereo Integrity, Sundown, Dayton (by Parts Express) or Image Dynamics. I know that most of these aren't your mainstream brands but you can also get help directly from the guys that design and build them.
As for your trunk rattling - any sub will make your trunk rattle when you hit the trunk's resonant frequency. To lower that outside of the sub's passband, you need to use a dampening material.
-Robert
Last edited by Robert_J; 02-11-08 at 01:08 PM.
02-11-08, 12:33 PM
#5
A bit offtopic here..Robert_J, what audio forum do you visit nowadays? I haven't been on audio forums for the longest time. ECA seems dead, caraudio turned crappy, caraudioforum...haven't been there since their forum had database issues. I only visit DIYmobileaudio as of now. 
02-11-08, 01:08 PM
#6
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02-11-08, 02:33 PM
#7
Thanks for the responses --
What I've basically gotten so far is that the trunk in the LS's are well insulated for various reasons. So it takes a lot of bass to hear some bass in the cabin.
I'm not going to go that route. I don't want to sink in the money for 1000watts on a Driver/sub to try and overpower the barrier between tunk/gastank/backseat.
Does anyone know if my LS400 has a sub? And even if it didn't come with one (is it possible they didn't?) -- Will the stock sub area (hole) be there?
I guess as it stands, my best bet might be sticking with factory speakers, and getting either a stock or something that runs off the stock 40watts -- (Basically a free-air sub that will fit this slot).
Of course if I either already have a sub, or if not, if the hole for it still exists in my car to mount to.
I'm just looking to punch it up a touch,.. Nothing major of course. I will most likely be looking to get a new head unit and the sub.
So what kind of pricing do you think I could get away with for a decent DoubleDin unit, with a sub that fits in the factory area? -- Installed?
500$ or so?
I might also go with an aftermarket alarm with all of this -- I don't have any idea if my 1994 LS400 has an alarm from the factory currently.
Combining an alarm with this, and possibly tint if they offer it.. I might be spending a grand or so at the same store, perhaps allowing for better pricing.
Thanks for all ideas!
What I've basically gotten so far is that the trunk in the LS's are well insulated for various reasons. So it takes a lot of bass to hear some bass in the cabin.
I'm not going to go that route. I don't want to sink in the money for 1000watts on a Driver/sub to try and overpower the barrier between tunk/gastank/backseat.
Does anyone know if my LS400 has a sub? And even if it didn't come with one (is it possible they didn't?) -- Will the stock sub area (hole) be there?
I guess as it stands, my best bet might be sticking with factory speakers, and getting either a stock or something that runs off the stock 40watts -- (Basically a free-air sub that will fit this slot).
Of course if I either already have a sub, or if not, if the hole for it still exists in my car to mount to.
I'm just looking to punch it up a touch,.. Nothing major of course. I will most likely be looking to get a new head unit and the sub.
So what kind of pricing do you think I could get away with for a decent DoubleDin unit, with a sub that fits in the factory area? -- Installed?
500$ or so?
I might also go with an aftermarket alarm with all of this -- I don't have any idea if my 1994 LS400 has an alarm from the factory currently.
Combining an alarm with this, and possibly tint if they offer it.. I might be spending a grand or so at the same store, perhaps allowing for better pricing.
Thanks for all ideas!
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02-11-08, 02:53 PM
#8
Lead Lap
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A properly installed infinite baffle sub (free air is just sitting in an open area) can give you some of the best sound quality bass around. I don't know enough about your car to give you specific recommendations on sub sizes but there are older threads where I mention general specs to look for in a sub when it will be used in an IB install.
If I remember correctly, you are limited by the gas tank again and need a shallow mount sub. ED and Lorentz Audio both carry very high quality, shallow subs are a reasonable price.
-Robert
If I remember correctly, you are limited by the gas tank again and need a shallow mount sub. ED and Lorentz Audio both carry very high quality, shallow subs are a reasonable price.
-Robert
02-11-08, 02:59 PM
#9
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/index.php
check out that company. they are about to be your new best friend. full infinit baffle setup. you dont want loud bass. but just enough check out the 9kv.2. that should be more than enough. i say 2x12w3v2 or 1x12w6v2. More than enough. if you go beyond that your whole trunk its gona rattle to pieces. i went through many subs for my 95LS. so there some recommendations you can look at. you will be pretty much followin the path ive already been down
check out that company. they are about to be your new best friend. full infinit baffle setup. you dont want loud bass. but just enough check out the 9kv.2. that should be more than enough. i say 2x12w3v2 or 1x12w6v2. More than enough. if you go beyond that your whole trunk its gona rattle to pieces. i went through many subs for my 95LS. so there some recommendations you can look at. you will be pretty much followin the path ive already been down
02-11-08, 03:32 PM
#10
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/index.php
check out that company. they are about to be your new best friend. full infinit baffle setup. you dont want loud bass. but just enough check out the 9kv.2. that should be more than enough. i say 2x12w3v2 or 1x12w6v2. More than enough. if you go beyond that your whole trunk its gona rattle to pieces. i went through many subs for my 95LS. so there some recommendations you can look at. you will be pretty much followin the path ive already been down
check out that company. they are about to be your new best friend. full infinit baffle setup. you dont want loud bass. but just enough check out the 9kv.2. that should be more than enough. i say 2x12w3v2 or 1x12w6v2. More than enough. if you go beyond that your whole trunk its gona rattle to pieces. i went through many subs for my 95LS. so there some recommendations you can look at. you will be pretty much followin the path ive already been down
Did you try the IB sub? which one? how is it?
I am looking for a IB sub too.
Thanks.
02-11-08, 03:36 PM
#11
If the LS is anything like the GS, I would skip the Infinite baffle setup. It sounded nice, but output definitely lacked. I've tried a single 10" Image Dynamics OEM Driver (produced for a short while), and a 12" Image dynamics IDMAX. the IDMAX was perfect, but I scraped that project because it was too heavy for the rear deck unless there was some skind of support on the bottom. So unless you have a very high output subwoofer with a good amount of brace, I would look elsewhere.
Now I'm back to a single 12" DIYMA sub in a sealed (sonotube style) box, and I wont be changing anything for a very very long time.
Now I'm back to a single 12" DIYMA sub in a sealed (sonotube style) box, and I wont be changing anything for a very very long time.
02-11-08, 04:28 PM
#12
Lexus Champion
Thanks for the responses --
What I've basically gotten so far is that the trunk in the LS's are well insulated for various reasons. So it takes a lot of bass to hear some bass in the cabin.
I'm not going to go that route. I don't want to sink in the money for 1000watts on a Driver/sub to try and overpower the barrier between tunk/gastank/backseat.
Does anyone know if my LS400 has a sub? And even if it didn't come with one (is it possible they didn't?) -- Will the stock sub area (hole) be there?
I guess as it stands, my best bet might be sticking with factory speakers, and getting either a stock or something that runs off the stock 40watts -- (Basically a free-air sub that will fit this slot).
Of course if I either already have a sub, or if not, if the hole for it still exists in my car to mount to.
I'm just looking to punch it up a touch,.. Nothing major of course. I will most likely be looking to get a new head unit and the sub.
So what kind of pricing do you think I could get away with for a decent DoubleDin unit, with a sub that fits in the factory area? -- Installed?
500$ or so?
I might also go with an aftermarket alarm with all of this -- I don't have any idea if my 1994 LS400 has an alarm from the factory currently.
Combining an alarm with this, and possibly tint if they offer it.. I might be spending a grand or so at the same store, perhaps allowing for better pricing.
Thanks for all ideas!
What I've basically gotten so far is that the trunk in the LS's are well insulated for various reasons. So it takes a lot of bass to hear some bass in the cabin.
I'm not going to go that route. I don't want to sink in the money for 1000watts on a Driver/sub to try and overpower the barrier between tunk/gastank/backseat.
Does anyone know if my LS400 has a sub? And even if it didn't come with one (is it possible they didn't?) -- Will the stock sub area (hole) be there?
I guess as it stands, my best bet might be sticking with factory speakers, and getting either a stock or something that runs off the stock 40watts -- (Basically a free-air sub that will fit this slot).
Of course if I either already have a sub, or if not, if the hole for it still exists in my car to mount to.
I'm just looking to punch it up a touch,.. Nothing major of course. I will most likely be looking to get a new head unit and the sub.
So what kind of pricing do you think I could get away with for a decent DoubleDin unit, with a sub that fits in the factory area? -- Installed?
500$ or so?
I might also go with an aftermarket alarm with all of this -- I don't have any idea if my 1994 LS400 has an alarm from the factory currently.
Combining an alarm with this, and possibly tint if they offer it.. I might be spending a grand or so at the same store, perhaps allowing for better pricing.
Thanks for all ideas!
all LS's came with subs in the back deck. you can repalce it with somehting for IB applications. i would still get a good amp to power it though, the stock amp is pretty weak, it wont have enough to move a good quality sub. you do hvae to be careful, the magnet will run into the fuel tank because there's not much clearance.
02-11-08, 05:21 PM
#13
im thinking of getting the eD 9kv.2 8 inch IB setup. im giving it another chance. since its hard to pass through the sub power from the trunk. but its only if you don't want to much bass just enough. usually people want mad bass. which is why i recommended the 2x12w3v2 or the 1x12w6v2. But i will hit you up when i get it. with IB setup its hard. you have to find one that has enough excursion and power output to satisfy. if the element design doesnt work for me back too two 2x12w3v2 on two fosgate p325.1 amps
02-11-08, 06:01 PM
#14
Ok so my car does currently have a sub in it. Great.
So basically on my 1994 LS 400, I want to replace that stock sub with something with a little more kick. But nothing that will rattle the trunk whatsoever.
So guess I am going to try my hardest to find something that is an immediate swap for the factory sub. I am assuming the factory sub is open air. (IE: Not enclosed) --
I've gotten a few responses, but I think alot of them are referring to either a set of 12's, enclosed, or a single 12 enclosed. I would like, if possible, to get a higher quality than stock Open air sub, and add an additional amplifier to that sub if required. (But I want it to be plug and play.. I will let the installers do the work , unless it is a direct bolt in.. (I can wire to a degree)) -- Though I do not want to cross the line where the 'new' replacement over powers the stock speakers.
I am limited with funds I wish to spend in this area.. So I would like , again, to utilize all stock speakers,.. replace the sub with a direct replacement and amp it if I have to. (Again, do not want anything that will make replacing the stock speakers necessary.. so I am probably looking at a very low powered sub here).
Also in this arrangement, I will want to go with a very reasonably priced Double Din Head unit -- (So that I can do this whole setup, sub + headunit (and amp if needed) installed for around $500. Given this more specific description of what I am going for. What can you recommend on the Head unit?
Is there any that fit perfectly without fabrication? Are there any that fit so close any install shop will make it look 'good' ? I absolutely do not want to put in a headunit and there be gaps/holes etc because it doesn't fit the hole fully.
--All I need out of the Head unit is CD play/Radio Play (not even sattellite)/ and MP3 play would be a nice bonus, but not required. So it can be on the lower end. However I don't think I want a 'Jenson/Sparkomatic' hehe.
--I have not gone to that link, and IB = Infinite Baffle. What exactly is that? Is it enclosed, or just a design that is open air that will fit my description (fit stock area/replace stock sub) neatly, while giving me the slight boost I am after.
--Lastly on this IB, or any other recommendations to fit the stock area,.. what price range am I looking at, considering I am trying to get away cheaply as possible, but without knockoff brands. I hope that makes sense.
Ok you say the magnet will runinto the fuel tank. So are you saying there really aren't any solutions to what I am trying to do that will 'fit' ?
Sorry if I am being dense here.. just trying to clear some things up. (I am definitely not after enclosing 2 , 12's in a box.. or anything near that nature).
Also -- Would anyone address , if known, if the 1994 LS400 has a factory alarm? If it does not I will be obtaining an aftermarket one with this Headunit/sub I purchase.. What is a good LOW end alarm? Other than the basic alarm, I don't need it to do anything else. I would only like a remote start option if that remote start is something I can press by button, and never insert my key in the ignition to start driving. (IE: press button as I walk to car, it starts.. I get inside and put it in drive and take off) -- If the remote start requires me to put the key in the ignition to drive, I don't need it. So just some basic low end alarms *if* the factory alarm isn't available on the 1994 LS 400 ( I know it has keyless entry).. looking for names/brands and price ranges. Also add in there perhaps how much 'extra' going with a remote start would be. *I am imagining 100-200 for the alarm basic.. adding the remote start will probably jack the alarm from 100-200 to 400-500. Which isn't worth it.
Finally, I do intend on putting 35% tint all the way around. Anyone have a general/estimate Ballpark figure on what this might cost? -- Nothing exact, just something like -- you would probably be looking at about 200$. Or 150, or 300 etc.
Yes, finally, I know I can take the car into an audio shop and get quotes for all of this, but I don't yet have the car, ( will pick it up this week) -- and am trying to get advice from current owners as I trust you guys more than a salesman at this point.
I would like to either go in with what I have in mind already,.. or B) if the swap is simple enough just order the parts and install myself.
Maybe install the sub/amp myself, and have the audio shop put in the headunit/alarm (if necessary)/ and tint.
Some shops will install anything you buy for free.. so if that is the case, I won't be installing a thing.
Oh yeah -- on the Factory head unit/ vs an aftermarket Double DIN:
Will the aftermarket Double DIN unit power the factory speakers without problem? I remember with my 300ZX I had, the speakers had amps built into them and no aftermarket headunit would allow the factory speakers to work. The LS 400 isn't this way is it?
Thanks for your replies -- advice -- I truly appreciate this!
So basically on my 1994 LS 400, I want to replace that stock sub with something with a little more kick. But nothing that will rattle the trunk whatsoever.
So guess I am going to try my hardest to find something that is an immediate swap for the factory sub. I am assuming the factory sub is open air. (IE: Not enclosed) --
I've gotten a few responses, but I think alot of them are referring to either a set of 12's, enclosed, or a single 12 enclosed. I would like, if possible, to get a higher quality than stock Open air sub, and add an additional amplifier to that sub if required. (But I want it to be plug and play.. I will let the installers do the work , unless it is a direct bolt in.. (I can wire to a degree)) -- Though I do not want to cross the line where the 'new' replacement over powers the stock speakers.
I am limited with funds I wish to spend in this area.. So I would like , again, to utilize all stock speakers,.. replace the sub with a direct replacement and amp it if I have to. (Again, do not want anything that will make replacing the stock speakers necessary.. so I am probably looking at a very low powered sub here).
Also in this arrangement, I will want to go with a very reasonably priced Double Din Head unit -- (So that I can do this whole setup, sub + headunit (and amp if needed) installed for around $500. Given this more specific description of what I am going for. What can you recommend on the Head unit?
Is there any that fit perfectly without fabrication? Are there any that fit so close any install shop will make it look 'good' ? I absolutely do not want to put in a headunit and there be gaps/holes etc because it doesn't fit the hole fully.
--All I need out of the Head unit is CD play/Radio Play (not even sattellite)/ and MP3 play would be a nice bonus, but not required. So it can be on the lower end. However I don't think I want a 'Jenson/Sparkomatic' hehe.
--I have not gone to that link, and IB = Infinite Baffle. What exactly is that? Is it enclosed, or just a design that is open air that will fit my description (fit stock area/replace stock sub) neatly, while giving me the slight boost I am after.
--Lastly on this IB, or any other recommendations to fit the stock area,.. what price range am I looking at, considering I am trying to get away cheaply as possible, but without knockoff brands. I hope that makes sense.
Ok you say the magnet will runinto the fuel tank. So are you saying there really aren't any solutions to what I am trying to do that will 'fit' ?
Sorry if I am being dense here.. just trying to clear some things up. (I am definitely not after enclosing 2 , 12's in a box.. or anything near that nature).
Also -- Would anyone address , if known, if the 1994 LS400 has a factory alarm? If it does not I will be obtaining an aftermarket one with this Headunit/sub I purchase.. What is a good LOW end alarm? Other than the basic alarm, I don't need it to do anything else. I would only like a remote start option if that remote start is something I can press by button, and never insert my key in the ignition to start driving. (IE: press button as I walk to car, it starts.. I get inside and put it in drive and take off) -- If the remote start requires me to put the key in the ignition to drive, I don't need it. So just some basic low end alarms *if* the factory alarm isn't available on the 1994 LS 400 ( I know it has keyless entry).. looking for names/brands and price ranges. Also add in there perhaps how much 'extra' going with a remote start would be. *I am imagining 100-200 for the alarm basic.. adding the remote start will probably jack the alarm from 100-200 to 400-500. Which isn't worth it.
Finally, I do intend on putting 35% tint all the way around. Anyone have a general/estimate Ballpark figure on what this might cost? -- Nothing exact, just something like -- you would probably be looking at about 200$. Or 150, or 300 etc.
Yes, finally, I know I can take the car into an audio shop and get quotes for all of this, but I don't yet have the car, ( will pick it up this week) -- and am trying to get advice from current owners as I trust you guys more than a salesman at this point.
I would like to either go in with what I have in mind already,.. or B) if the swap is simple enough just order the parts and install myself.
Maybe install the sub/amp myself, and have the audio shop put in the headunit/alarm (if necessary)/ and tint.
Some shops will install anything you buy for free.. so if that is the case, I won't be installing a thing.
Oh yeah -- on the Factory head unit/ vs an aftermarket Double DIN:
Will the aftermarket Double DIN unit power the factory speakers without problem? I remember with my 300ZX I had, the speakers had amps built into them and no aftermarket headunit would allow the factory speakers to work. The LS 400 isn't this way is it?
Thanks for your replies -- advice -- I truly appreciate this!
02-11-08, 07:52 PM
#15
it would be nice to put in an after market deck. but theres going to be a lot of rewiring which equals money. it seems you don't need much to satisfy your needs. so i would recommend stickin with stock. most people bypass the stock amp with the after market deck, but i didn't. it took me awhile to wire it all up. but it is possible to use your stock amp on your after market head unit.
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/pro...products_id=29
you can pick up that sub. it runs from a range of 200 watt rms - 300 watt rms more than enough. i would look at the figure and measure and compare it to stock to make sure it doesnt hit the gas tank. this is pretty much a stock replacement. since its an 8 inch woofer. that sub will cost you 75 bucks
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=18395
you can get the rockford fosgate p325.1 which does about 300 watt rms at 2ohms. get the sub D2 perfectooo. this amp also comes with a bass **** so you can turn it down or up. 135 bucks
the last things you would need to get to finish the installation is a 8 gauge power wire kit, and a line input converter. but if you are going to get it installed at a shop they will have it there.
tint for my 1995 ls400 with 5% all around cost me 300. i say this price ranges on why type of tint you get, and where you get it done. its really hard to say how much its going to cost. start being friends with people and try to get a discount ;].
hopefully i answer most of your questions :]
http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/pro...products_id=29
you can pick up that sub. it runs from a range of 200 watt rms - 300 watt rms more than enough. i would look at the figure and measure and compare it to stock to make sure it doesnt hit the gas tank. this is pretty much a stock replacement. since its an 8 inch woofer. that sub will cost you 75 bucks
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=18395
you can get the rockford fosgate p325.1 which does about 300 watt rms at 2ohms. get the sub D2 perfectooo. this amp also comes with a bass **** so you can turn it down or up. 135 bucks
the last things you would need to get to finish the installation is a 8 gauge power wire kit, and a line input converter. but if you are going to get it installed at a shop they will have it there.
tint for my 1995 ls400 with 5% all around cost me 300. i say this price ranges on why type of tint you get, and where you get it done. its really hard to say how much its going to cost. start being friends with people and try to get a discount ;].
hopefully i answer most of your questions :]