ByoungWoo

iTrader: (1)

I've decided to go with either a JL 12W6V2 or maybe even a W7. How much do you guys think i'll be spending w/sub + sub box+ amp + sound deadning + install? I don't want to just walk into a audio shop and get robbed.
TIA
-ByoungWoo

Robert_J

Going with JL, more than I would spend. You can get equal or better performance from other subs on the market. Not that JL isn't a fine product, they just price themselves as a premium product and shops have to make a profit as well. Elemental Designs, Soundsplinter, Fi Car Audio, Ascendant Audio, Sound Solutions Audio, Sundown Audio, Exodus Audio, Resonant Engineering, Creative Sound Solutions (Canada), Stereo Integrity, AE Speakers and Dayton audio all make subs and/or amps that give you equal performance and output as a JL setup when installed in the proper enclosure. If you still want to spend premium prices, then Resonant Engineering has a line that is extremely expensive as well as Aurasound, Audiopulse and Acoupower are great choices.

As for a guess at the price, that's just it for us a guess. We have no idea what amp you plan on going with or whether or not you are getting a pre-fab box or going custom. How much does the shop charge per hour for installs?

-Robert

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

As the other poster mentioned there are alot of unknown variables in that equation to give you a 'close' price. But I will estimate anyway.

I would say expect to spend between $700-$900 dollars.

You are going with the top of the line JL sub, which handles a fair amount of wattage, which will require a hefty amp with a low THD -- (don't run a cheap amp on a W6 or 7, please... )

The sound material will cost X$ per sqft.. so it all depends on how much you want to cover.. but the install should be free -- the cost should be parts + kits required for install.

The sound deadening they will charge you for material and a little bit to install that.

Most sound shops don't charge for installation labor,.. they simply have everything else marked up which covers the installation.. but for custom sound deadening and such they will probably throw a nominal fee at you for that installation.

I personally would go with a JL W0, (or at the highest a W3-4 series).. The 6-7's are very nice, but the price isn't warranted for the increase. If you are planning on putting the car in shows/competitions.. then go with the 6-7 -- But otherwise, there isn't any point.

The sub will be a touch more responsive and the magnet will be huge.. but the price tag and amplification required to move that woofer with the resistance added due to the new magnet will be substantial.

Where with a W0 you can run 100Watts to it and it will sound great. Almost too good to be true, but it is.

So say you ran Two W0's ,.. put a 200Watt amp.. 100x2 --

You could get away for a fraction of the previous price.

If money is of little concern, then forget what I just said.

ByoungWoo

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for all of your guys' replies...I just found out my neighbor has a W7 in his car and I thought it was too much for my taste. He recommended either a W6 or a W3v2 w/a good amp.
I'm planning to run either a 500/1 jl monoblock or a Hifonics Brutus w/a w6...is that a standard setup?
Ball-parking...how much will this cost?
TIA
-ByoungWoo

Robert_J

As with most things 'free', you will get what you pay for. They will rush through the install as fast as possible to maximize profit. I've helped a few people correct their installs after the local shop butchered them. They took the fastest and cheapest way at every turn and the sound suffered.

Magnet size means nothing in subs. You need to look at the Bl of the sub. That's the force that the magnet exerts on the voice coil. Yes, most of the time a larger magnet means more Bl but not always. When Dan Wiggins designed the Brahma line of subs for Adire, he said that they worked fine with a single 1" thick magnet slug like this:

But he built it with 3 slugs like this:

Why? Because it would not sell as well with just one slug. Adding additional slugs did nothing but raise the price of the sub. It does not make it more powerful. To do that you have to change the diameter of the motor structure or the material use to make the magets. Neodymium holds a much stronger magnetic force than ferrite. If you go here and scroll down to the motors, you will see both ceramic and neo motors. I have subs built with both. The ceramic motor weighs 40 pounds and the neo motor weighs 25 pounds. The neo motor is stronger. Magnet weight isn't everything.

Electrical resistance is determined by the size, length and type of wire in the voice coil. Mechanical resistance is determined by the weight of the moving parts (the mms in the Theile/Small parameters) and by the stiffness of the suspensions (the Qms in the Theile/Small parameters). The motor assembly plays no part in resistance. A properly designed motor and voice coil assembly will provide enough force to move the cone and create sound. The higher the Bl, the easier it is for an amp to move the cone of the sub.

-Robert

-Robert

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

Robert, well thanks for the lesson on the 'science behind subwoofers by Robert J. Vol I, abridged ver.'.

I won't admit I knew all of that, though Wiki does a nice job of that. However, a larger magnet still 'most of the time' means exactly what I said it does. You can 'generally' assume this premise based on that criteria alone. Not always, but generally. I didn't think it warranted to get technical for what the OP asked and is still asking.

Ballpark means 'round about', a guess, not precise. Standard English idiom.

More precisely:

"A ballpark figure is a rough or approximate number (guesstimate) to give a general idea of something, like a rough estimate for a cost, etc. "



I'm just teasing, Mr. J.


The JLW6 12 will run you 500$ in a store, or online a touch under 300$. The amp about $200 online, and retail probably twice that.

Though with the Hifonics Brutus I noticed it is 500Watts at 1ohm. You'll have to ask our resident expert Robert this, but I was under the impression the W6 runs with DVC at 4ohms per coil. Not exactly sure how this would work out..

But, let us say you bought the equipment online:

Sub: $300

Amp: $200

--Enclosure can be anywhere from free - $50 to a few hundred depending on what you are trying to accomplish. If just a standard design, not much.

500$ in equipment.

Bring it for installation,.. and dynomat -- Tack on $200-250. So my initial estimate is about right.

You buy a W6 , a 500+ watt amp, and dyno in retail.. You will probably break the 1000$ barrier easily.

I would take a happy compromise and go with a W3 -- But, again, it is about your cash flow. Since you are inquiring I imagine price is somewhat important to you.

I would advise this. You go online, buy what you want..

Then, you and your friend install it. It is done right, and you save a bundle.

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

I forgot to mention.

Judging something 'too much' by the fact that it is rated as a 'W7' might not net the result you want.

Perfect example:

My first system I built was two JL 12W1's with 2 Pioneer amps running 100Wattsx1 @4ohms -- One amp per sub.

Standard enclosure, non ported and so on. (Nothing more for the bass other than that, had MQquart mids, crossover, and Kenwood Headunit at the time).

The guy who worked as a sales rep in the store at the time (a friend of mine) had three JL 12W6's, running close to 2000Watts.

My system blew his out of the water in both DB's and sound quality.

Why? Because of the car it was placed in. I won't go into details.

But enclosure type, and more importantly what is between you and the subs plus the accoustics of the vehicle (IE: hatchback, trunk, what is between trunk and where you sit, etc.. Make a huge difference).

Just keep it in mind.

Don't get me wrong, The W6 subs are a much better quailty design that the W0/1's -- But as for how loud they might be... A W6 is not 6times louder than a W1, or even 3 times. It isn't really about the output as much as it is the quality, response, and many many other detail like factors that differentiate the levels of the JL line.

He had what a competition would appreciate, but even he admitted my relatively cheap setup was better sounding than his. To flip this, put my setup in his vehicle and it would not have sounded as good as his triple W6's.

Hope that makes a little sense.

On the JL line, I really, really like their products. I don't believe they make a poor sub period. Even their $90 W0's sound great. The sound better than some subs twice their price imho.

cliffud

iTrader: (3)

one other note. take off your watch before handling the big magnets.

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

lol
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PK_Celsior

iTrader: (18)

i would go with element design.
http://www.edesignaudio.com/index.php
they are bang for the buck

it also depends on what kind of car this audio system is going too. some car take less to drive compared to other cars. most people dont need beyond 1 12W6V2 or 12W3V2 or 12W3V3. they hit nice no doubt. i owned 2 12W3V2 and 2 12W6V2 i listen to a couple W7s. if you put it in a seal box. nice tight clean bass.
they are going to cost you a hefty penny no doubt.
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...facturerID=621
there are some of the prices.