What Sub To Get For My GS? *FREE AIR*
#1
What Sub To Get For My GS? *FREE AIR*
I want to replace the factory sub with a upgraded free air sub that will fit into the oem decklid hole.
Anyone know of what makes/models that have worked in the past?
Was there deck lid modification needed?
Did you have to re-enforce the deck lid?
Open to suggestions........
*MUST BE FREE AIR SUBWOOFER*
Anyone know of what makes/models that have worked in the past?
Was there deck lid modification needed?
Did you have to re-enforce the deck lid?
Open to suggestions........
*MUST BE FREE AIR SUBWOOFER*
#2
Depends if you want it to slam hard or you just need a better bass sound...My 10" Kicker Comp (150W RMS, 300 peak) hit svery nice when I want it to and it's not free air, but is in the back of my ls400 where the old 8" woofer was (i have it custom cut and mounted). I mean it gives me a light back masssage still, lol, I have a 200W amp too. I'm sure you could get away with a non free-air sub, as long as you have the front of the sub sealed off from the back of the sub. If you don't like it you could always take it back (I would hope) if it's not strong enough.
#3
We have covered this a bunch of times. Free-air is just a sub sitting in the open. Makes very little bass because there is nothing to keep the front wave from interacting with the rear wave. Infinite baffle installations separate the front wave from the rear by using a baffle like the deck or a large board mounted behind the rear seat.
Subs that have the 'free-air' or 'IB' label attached to them are just marketing. Some don't work very well. Other subs that don't carry this label will work just fine. You want a sub with a Qts at least .4 or higher. .707 would be perfect. You want an Fs around 30hz. I would go as high as 35 hz or go as low as possible if you are a bass nut. Xmax must be at least 15mm (my personal lower limit). Since IB installs don't have a box to control the motion of the cone, you must have enough stroke to keep from destroying the sub. The TC Sounds TC-7 was probably the perfect IB sub. Too bad TC Sounds is now in bankruptcy proceedings.
Elemental Designs has some drivers that work well in IB installs. Cerwin Vega V-Max series have great looking specs and the older models were GREAT. I'm not very familiar with the newer V-Max line. Just browse different sites and look at the T/S specs on the subs. If you find a sub that doesn't have T/S specs, then don't consider it. If a company isn't proud enough to publish the specs of their speakers, then they are hiding something.
-Robert
Subs that have the 'free-air' or 'IB' label attached to them are just marketing. Some don't work very well. Other subs that don't carry this label will work just fine. You want a sub with a Qts at least .4 or higher. .707 would be perfect. You want an Fs around 30hz. I would go as high as 35 hz or go as low as possible if you are a bass nut. Xmax must be at least 15mm (my personal lower limit). Since IB installs don't have a box to control the motion of the cone, you must have enough stroke to keep from destroying the sub. The TC Sounds TC-7 was probably the perfect IB sub. Too bad TC Sounds is now in bankruptcy proceedings.
Elemental Designs has some drivers that work well in IB installs. Cerwin Vega V-Max series have great looking specs and the older models were GREAT. I'm not very familiar with the newer V-Max line. Just browse different sites and look at the T/S specs on the subs. If you find a sub that doesn't have T/S specs, then don't consider it. If a company isn't proud enough to publish the specs of their speakers, then they are hiding something.
-Robert
#4
I am not looking for anything crazy. I prefer a sealed box sound over a ported box (but this will be free air). Because the installation of an aftermarket head unit I lost the function of my factory sub (its impossible to retain factory sub/amp with aftermarket head unit). So right now I have absolutly no bass at all
All im looking for is a little bit of crisp clean bass that will be powered by my old Rockford Fosgate Punch 201s (bridged).
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...ures_and_specs
Any suggestions on Make/Models of subs that may work well?
Sorry guys im not very knowledgable on car audio.
All im looking for is a little bit of crisp clean bass that will be powered by my old Rockford Fosgate Punch 201s (bridged).
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...ures_and_specs
Any suggestions on Make/Models of subs that may work well?
Sorry guys im not very knowledgable on car audio.
Last edited by charmz; 04-16-08 at 03:35 PM.
#5
I found this...
http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_...roducts_id=611
Im confused as to what sub comes with this kit if any ???
Will my amp be sufficient to power this ???
Thanks
http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_...roducts_id=611
Im confused as to what sub comes with this kit if any ???
Will my amp be sufficient to power this ???
Thanks
#6
Budget? I've looked at subs costing from $20 to $2,000.
-Robert
#7
I would assume the 11Kv.2 comes with the kit since it is in every picture. Nice sub but the Qts is a little low. The very low end of the spectrum (under 30hz) may be a little on the heavy side. But an EQ can clear that up.
The Haxo LXU10 will make a better IB sub according to the specs. Plus it is an underhung design which is inherently lower distortion. And the BL is lower. A high BL is a waste of motor power. Kind of like driving your NASCAR to the grocery store.
-Robert
The Haxo LXU10 will make a better IB sub according to the specs. Plus it is an underhung design which is inherently lower distortion. And the BL is lower. A high BL is a waste of motor power. Kind of like driving your NASCAR to the grocery store.
-Robert
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#8
The stage 2 kit comes with the 11Ov.2 Subwoofer. I really like the simplicity of the "bolt-on" factor of this package. I would rather not have to modify anything.
How will this subwoofer work with the amp I will be using?
Im confused about all this 4 ohm and dual voice coil stuff.
Thanks alot for your time Robert.
How will this subwoofer work with the amp I will be using?
Im confused about all this 4 ohm and dual voice coil stuff.
Thanks alot for your time Robert.
Last edited by charmz; 04-17-08 at 07:59 AM.
#9
If it comes with the 11Ov.2, that is a better and more IB appropriate driver than the K series. I'd still ask one of the guys at ED about using the LXU10 though.
Your amp produces the most power when when driving a 2 ohm load in stereo or a 4 ohm load when bridged. So, if you are going to bridge the amp to drive your sub, then you want a 4 ohm load like the LXU10 (single 4 ohm voice coil) or a dual 2 ohm voice coil 11Ov.2. You would wire the voice coils of the 11Ov.2 in series for a final impedance of 4 ohms.
-Robert
Your amp produces the most power when when driving a 2 ohm load in stereo or a 4 ohm load when bridged. So, if you are going to bridge the amp to drive your sub, then you want a 4 ohm load like the LXU10 (single 4 ohm voice coil) or a dual 2 ohm voice coil 11Ov.2. You would wire the voice coils of the 11Ov.2 in series for a final impedance of 4 ohms.
-Robert
#10
Robert,
You're really getting on my nerves with how much you know about this stuff.
Gotta give you props for the wealth of knowledge you've been spreading in this forum to date. When the new round of mods are appointed your name should definitely be in the mix. Great job.
You're really getting on my nerves with how much you know about this stuff.
Gotta give you props for the wealth of knowledge you've been spreading in this forum to date. When the new round of mods are appointed your name should definitely be in the mix. Great job.
#11
-Robert
#12
im perhaps going to be flamed for asking such a question but has anyone ever used the old e12a in a IB set up? i dont think it was designed to be used for an IB set up but i was kind of curious if its possible????
#13
According to the specs, the E12A.22 would make a good IB sub. I had one for a little while and ran it sealed. I have also used its cousin the RL-p 12.
Interesting that you should ask about the E12A. The motor structures for the four 18's I mentioned earlier, the motor for the custom sub that I built and two of the six extra motors that I have all came from TC Sounds. All had Elemental Designs E12A stickers on the side of the magnets.
-Robert
Interesting that you should ask about the E12A. The motor structures for the four 18's I mentioned earlier, the motor for the custom sub that I built and two of the six extra motors that I have all came from TC Sounds. All had Elemental Designs E12A stickers on the side of the magnets.
-Robert
#14
How old of an E12A are we talking? Elemental design had multiple generations of A-series. The first and second generation A-series didn't fare too well in an infinite baffle setup. They were more geared towards sealed boxes. I dont know about the current generation so I can't speak on behalf of it.
#15
How old of an E12A are we talking? Elemental design had multiple generations of A-series. The first and second generation A-series didn't fare too well in an infinite baffle setup. They were more geared towards sealed boxes. I dont know about the current generation so I can't speak on behalf of it.
i had my flat cone run superb in a sealed box. it was awesome i can begin to describe my experience with that sub!! so nice!