charmz

The amp was bridged with the GAIN cranked to 1/2 and a little more for BASS BOOST.






Im using a PIONEER AVIC-D3 HEAD UNIT with the following settings.





As soon as I TURNED LOUD MODE ON through the deck I heard a pop and the sub did not work thereafter EXCEPT when I hold my finger against the cone and then suddenly the sub comes to life again???

Anyone have any suggestion of WHY this happens and WHAT I can do about it? Maybe I should put a different sub in ?

The amount of BASS was OK but not up to what I was expecting and I was trying to fine tune it to make it slightly louder so I tried the "LOUD MODE" ... 3 hours of installing for 5 minutes of bass. IM PISSED!

GSoup

http://www.edesignaudio.com/elementa...11ov2chart.php

That amp is designed to handle (2) 11ov2 not 1. Hmmmmmmm

Rodneyc77

Please Review this... it will explain why your sub went bad...

http://www.icixsound.com/iv/view_vid...e=&category=mv

DarrellGS4

Wow...going to my car and turn mine down right now.

iposthere

OH NO! sorry to hear that!

At least you are covered by a 5 Year warranty with E.D.

When i spoke to the guys at ED they were real nice/helpful, so im sure they will walk you through the tunning of the amp. Especially since you bought all that from them!

Let us know when you get everything fixed.

iposthere

I was just looking at you pics.

I Cant tell for sure, but it looks like your Sub coils are wired Red to Black (Instead of Red to Red, Black to Black) in the first 2 pictures.

Red to Red example:


If it is, that's probly why your sub didnt put out much bass and it blew in 5 min after you turned it up.

Here is an example: http://www.icixsound.com/iv/view_vid...e=&category=mv

Like i said, I cant clearly see. You might be doing this instead (which is also okay):

Also, there is an Ohm difference on the way you wire them. I Didn't look at the specs of your amp for what it should be.
------------------------------------------

I just looked at the amp and sub specs. Your kit came with a D2. so the series wiring (the 2nd pic i posted) is the correct way to wire it.

You should test you Gain setting to make sure it wasnt too high. http://www.edesignaudio.com/gains_video.php

Hope this helped figure out the cause.

charmz

The Second Photo Is How I Wired My Sub.

A Bridged NINe.2x = 4ohm @ 600 watts
A Dual 2ohm 11O.v2 wired as in the photo you posted = 4ohm

According to their website the ideal amount of power for this subwoofer is between 250-600 watts. So my question is HOW IS A NINe.2x AMP supposed to POWER 2 OF THESE SUBS & ACCORING TO THEIR POWER CHART HOW DID MY SUB BLOW WITH THE GAIN ON THE AMP ONLY AT 1/2???
http://www.edesignaudio.com/elementa...11ov2chart.php

I thought this would have worked out perfectly!!!!
BUT APPARANTLY NOT!

***NOTE: One thing I found really WEIRD is when I tested the sub (before installing it I tested it and it registered each coil at 3ohm?) - could that be a faulty/damaged sub?

iposthere

K, so that rules out the wiring.

Not sure about the 3 Ohm results(I only know enough to be dangerous).

Give them a call. they will be the best to answer that. I'm really curious to find out the culprit of this blow out.

Robert_J

The RMS rating on the sub is how much power it will take before the voice coil melts. Nothing more. You pushed your sub past it's excursion limits and it sounds like you tore your tinsel leads. This is considered customer abuse and not covered under warranty. Very unlikely that ED will replace your sub.

If you search for my posts about IB's, you will see that I always model my subs using Unibox to see how much power it takes before reaching xmax. Bass boost and "loud" settings are not ever recommended. ED even has videos on their site about them.

I would think that the 3 ohm measurement on the VC is really a dual 4 ohm but car audio manufacturers have been known to use a higher resistance so that people don't overpower their subs. DC resistance is always lower than nominal impedance.

-Robert

charmz

What I ordered was supposed to be a dual 2ohm.

What do you guys think I should do now?

ARE THERE ANY OTHER SUBS that can 'actually' handle 600RMS watts at 4ohms that I could replace this with?

OR SHOULD I ORDER ANOTHER ONE and try my luck again and alter the settings.

The problem is the BASS OUTPUT was not meeting my standards and thats why I began to alter the settings......So now im in a position where I have the ****ing IB setup that I spent 3 hours putting in ripping the entire back end of my interior apart to do so and no sub to put in that will suit my needs!

I REALLY DONT WANT TO SCRAP THIS IB SETUP AND THROW A BOX IN - BUT THAT IS LAST RESORT

99GS4

If your sub comes back on when you hold your finger t the cone, it just might be a defective sub. Something popped loose when you turned it on for the first time maybe?

5sp_jzz30

iTrader: (2)

the sub will not handle the advertised rms power rating whe it is in free-air mode. it makes a difference if the sub is in a sealed, ported, or free-air configuration. the rule of thumb i heard is that in free-air mode the power handling drops to roughly 1/3rd of its advertised rating.

check the wiring and the work.

do yourself a favor and build a real box. it will make the sub sound better and handle the power. i like sealed boxes because they give the most precise response. they are not as loud as a ported box but i could care less about "ghetto blaster" loud. i love crisp sound.

krazyl3gz

x2, IB sucks.

Robert_J

No. The RMS power handling is still exactly the same. The voice coil will still melt if you send a 1khz, 600w sine wave for an hour. It is the THERMAL rating only. Mechanical power handling varies by enclosure type, tuning frequency (in the case of ported boxes) and the frequency of the material being sent to the sub. Again, that is why you run a quick simulation before you blow up a new sub.

Enclosures will change the sound of a sub. Watch how the Qtc changes as enclosure size varies. A true IB has not box to change the sound of the sub. The driver relies on the motor system and suspension only to control the cone.

When modeling an IB, it is just a sealed enclosure where the Vb is 10x the driver's Vas. The response graph is just like a low Qtc sealed enclosure.

Here is your 13Ov.2 in an IB. The response graph is simulated with the bass boost on the amp set to zero, the loudness on the radio set to Off and the EQ on the radio set to flat. As you can see, you are reaching full excursion at 35hz. Normally, that wouldn't be an issue. But when you boost the low end at the amp, boost the low end by turning on the "loudness" button and boost the low end with the EQ you can easily push the driver past its limits.

Yes, you said the gain was set at 1/2. That tells us nothing. How many volts does your head unit put out? Let's say that the bass boost adds 3db, the loudness adds about 3db and the EQ adds about 3db. If you crank the volume where the average amp output at 100hz is 100w, but the 10db boost or so down low is pushing around 1000w. Your amp is rated at 600w. That's average output with a 12v electrical system. You can have up to 14.4v powering that amp. If you didn't measure the output of your amp with a DMM, then you have no idea how much power you are really feeding that sub.

Gain setting tutorial
What bass boost does to a clean signal.

Finally, you say that the sub wasn't meeting your expectations for SPL. IB subs aren't that loud. You get no extra gain that comes with a box. In home theaters, IB users have multiple 15" and 18" subs to reach the volume that a single driver can do in a box. Maybe an IB can't satify your goal and you need a high Qtc system that has a natural hump in the frequency response or a ported system that has a higher sensitivity.

-Robert

iposthere

I had a IB setup in one of my other cars. 2 12" subs.

It hit very hard and had super clean sound (for my preference). I had a box in the car before but got rid of it and put in the IB to save trunk space.

I'm sure some peoples IB setups suck. But ive heard pleanty that are great. I'm sure it's due to the subs and amps they use and finally Tunning.


I'm doing an IB setup in my GS shortly....I'll let you know if I'm happy or not with it.