Curry

iTrader: (1)

Got a question. I was getting ready to hook up the modules for window roll-up and sunroof. Aside from the extra modules you have to purchase (530T for the windows and (maybe) 529T for the sunroof) Do you need extra relays?

I was reading a few installs where people said they used relays in the basic install, but never mentioned for what.

Anyone know if the trunk release requires a relay? I read that it doesnt. Just a single wire hook up

davidv433

wassup man, as far as i know its a positive trigger trunk release wire, but you do have to use the relay to send positive out because the output wire from the alarm should be negative. i just did an alarm remote start on my sc but i didnt hook up the trunk release yet. if you need a wire location guide pm me.

Curry

iTrader: (1)

Scratch that. We were able to get it to work without the relay. Its a single wire right at the switch. It needs no relay since its low current according to the manual.

Thanks.

5sp_jzz30

iTrader: (2)

thats waht i was gonna say. sc doesnt need anything extra then what comes in the box

sc is one of the easiest cars to do a rem start in. mine took under 3 hours with window module.

mkorsu

Lochan (Hope I spelled it right! )

I'm fairly certain that the 529T is the module for the sunroof, but I personally was leery due to the fact our sunroofs have that safety where we have to release the button and re-engage. Not really sure if it can work on out cars offhand.

I will make a call to my friend who is the Rainman of alarms and car wiring and check for you though. If the 529 won't work in a normal configuration I can amost ensure that he can devise and give us a wiring workaround.

Curry

iTrader: (1)

Thanks mark. Not sure if I still may do it, I definetly want to get the windows done.

I had a question. While we were finishing the install, You know the brown wire that goes from the alarm to the brake light switch for the remote start shut off?

Well when we connect that to the brake light wire and press the brakes, it blows the fuse... Any ideas what could be wrong there?

When you programmed todds remote, did you do the tach learning or just the voltage sensing option? Cause when I start my car with the remote it turns off right away. The manual says the default is tach-sensing, which I didn't setup.

5sp_jzz30

iTrader: (2)

if you didnt hook up the tach wire, which is easy, right on the igniter on driver side fender, you can switch the unit to voltage sense.

there should actually be 3 brown wires on the 990. one is a very thin brown wire that goes to the brake switch and its an input wire and takes 12v. another is a much fatter wire. it is the siren 12v output. the third is the horn output. if you have. the horn wire is like a 200mv output wire.

you either have the wrong brown wire or you have the wrong wire in the car that you are tapping into.

good luck with install.

Curry

iTrader: (1)

I'm going to double check the brown wires. I know the big fat one is in the right spot. Maybe the other 2 did get mixed up if there is another brown. I'm pretty sure we tapped the correct wire. When the brake is depressed, it reads 12 volts and we tapped it right at the switch.

We did hook up the tach wire. So when I get a chance I'll do the tach procedure and see if that works.

Curry

iTrader: (1)

Checked the brown wire and its the correct wire. Don't know what else it could be.

davidv433

just a suggestion, double check the brown wire you are using, make sure its not sending out voltage when u remote start, could be a different wire. no reason brake input wire will blow the fuse.

mkorsu

Where are you grabbing the brake wire? Are you using the brake switch above the pedal or a lead in the kickpanel going to the lights? I always use the wire at the brake pedal switch (although it really should not matter). It is the black wire at the switch.

I am more inclined to believe though that the wire is still incorrect or shorted somewhere in your alarm harness. The brake (brown) from the alarm does not send a voltage signal. It only reads voltage so if the right wire is used it should not cause a fuse to blow.

Also, Todd mentioned to me that you are having taillight problems to begin with. This may be the cause of the problems.

Curry

iTrader: (1)

I finished the rest of the install the other day got the remote start programmed and turbo timer working.

I used the brake wire from the switch, its a black wire I believe. I tested it to make sure that was the wire. I also tried using the one from the kick panel.

We double checked the wire from the alarm itself going to the brake pedal.

The situation with my rear lights is basically this.

My BRAKE lights work normally. My REAR park lights don't work at all. ALL my other park lights work...

I haven't been able to trace the lines. Any tips on what I should be looking for? Which wire to trace?

Let me know.

Thanks!

Curry

iTrader: (1)

When starting with the remote start everything works. Its only when I actually press the brakes with the brown wire connected the fuse blows... Going to triple check the wire when I get a chance and let you guys know.

Just to be clear, I'm using the brown wire from the 5 pin harness.

davidv433

my front lights only light up when i remote start not the rear, i used a green wire in the kick panel, i dont know if theyre separate wires for front and rear but there should be a wire that controls front and rear lights, just gotta look for it. also might have to use the negative wire from the parking light switch on the column, to make all of them light up.

Curry

iTrader: (1)

Even without the remote start my rear park lights never work. Checked the fuses and relays... no dice.

I need to figure out which wire it is for the park lights and trace it.