Hi, I wanted to see if anyone could help me with my problem..

I have JL W3 and a JL 300-2 Amplifier.
When I turn up the bass and bump it hard my sub will just shut off for couple of seconds then turn back on like the wire is loose or something? Sometimes when I bump it really hard, my fuse blows.

I asked the guys who installed my system and he told me that my wires are too thin and its not allowing enough current to go through so it blows my fuse.

The sub and wires I am currently using right now was my friends. He used it with a no name amp and had no problems with it. I know I can easily just fix the problem by buying another wire but it would cost me another $90 to do the installation.

My question is.. if I go with a cheaper amp, would this fix my problem?

Thanks for reading!

 

maybe, but your better off buying a wireing kit thats atleast a size 6.
That will be less expensive than an amp

 

Blowing fuses have u been replacing them? If you blow the fuse it is not going to be cutting in an out like that it will work and then the fuse can blow and it wouldn't come back on till you replace the fuse.

For that amp I would run a 4ga cable from battery to the amp. That amp does have some current draw it is a strong amp. I would not recommend going to a knock off amp if you are wanting a quality sound.

Also what head unit are you useing?

Also try playing the system like u do normally when it cuts out. get to the amp and see if the power inducators are going on and off. If they are staying on when the sound stops it will be a signal issue not a power issue(still would use the 4ga cable though) You may need to get a stronger signal from radio to the amp.

 

it can either be a loose wire

your amp might be gettin to hot and going into protection mode

or like what happen to me, my jl amp just took a dump

i was running 2 12w3v2 on a jl 500/1 amp, when it took a dump.

if the wire was to small good thing to upgrade, because im sure your power wire is getting hot from all that stress. could eventually burn off the insulation on the wire and mess up your car some more.

 

sometimes when it bumps little too hard, it will cut off. but if i bump it VERY hard then the fuse will blow. i replaced the fuse 3 times already so i lowered the bass. i am also using my stock head unit. would getting a equalizer help if i stick with stock headunit?

i was thinking about just getting a weaker amp, not a knock off brand or anything.

 

That's your problem. Bass boost strains your entire system. If you are already pulling 50w of power on average and you boost the low end by 10db, then you are asking your amp to push 500w on average. 10db = doubling the perceived loudness = 10 times the power required (all things being equal). Here is what happens to your signal - video link. You are pushing your amp past what it was designed to do and causing it to go into protection mode. Blowing fuses is a sign that you are drawing too much current. Your amp is trying to keep up with your demands but it just can't.

Same reason you can't use a Ford pickup to haul a 53' container trailer weighing 60,000 pounds. Yes, it will pull it a little but not across the country like a good semi-truck will. You just need more amp to meet your SPL requirements.

-Robert

 

thanks for the responses everyone! i think i understand now.
ill just turn down the amp a little for now until i get bigger wires.

is a size 6 ok, or should i go with something little bigger?
is there any specific brand i should look at?
any recommended places i should look at to get the wiring kit from?

 

Don't turn down the amp, just don't use any boost. That's the killer. The ICIX site also has a great video on how to properly set your gains using a DMM. If you really want to upgrade your wire, don't use a kit. Just go get some wire from your local car audio store or site. Better yet get the wire from your local welding supply store. Same stuff. Not quite as pretty. Much cheaper.

-Robert

 

Use 4ga wire. I use 4ga on all my amps in my truck and have never had an issue with any of them.