Vortes

Im looking to buy an amp and sub, and im wondering what i will need to hook up the subs to my stock system, its a stock 92 Pioneer system, i was told by someone at best buy that i just need a small $20 connector, is that true?

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

Not quite. They may have been saying you need a LOC (Line Output Converter) to connect to the factory radio's sub output. If you buy an amp that has current sensing for turn on, you can use the high level inputs to not only give it signal, but turn it on. Some of the JBL's have it. I would visit your local shop to see what they have to offer.

Since you're going to be using an amp, you'll also need wiring for the battery. You'll probably be better off buying just the wire if you buy an amp that has sensing, because you won't need an RCA cable or a turn on lead. Given that you can get 8 ga for about $1 a foot and 4 ga for about $3, you'll only be spending about $50 on wire as opposed to buying a kit for $80-90.

Hope that helps, mang.

Big Mack

Electrodyn

Finding an amplifier that has sensing might be tough. Very few amplifiers have that feature...especially on the line level side of the inputs (that is, if the amplifier has line level input capability). Even with an LOC, it's still difficult to find an amp that has signal sensing (aka: auto turn-on) capabilities. ...unless the LOC comes with a remote output that it powers when it sees a signal.

The "connector" they're probably talking about is the harness that goes behind the factory head unit. If you're keeping the factory HU, it's not necessary to install the connector/harness because it's only used for aftermarket HU's.

The remote turn on for an additional amplifier is back at the connector that feeds your factory 4-channel amplifier for your front speakers. From memory it is blue with a purple stripe, but don't quote me on that. I can look it up in my manual if you need the wire color and harness number (there are 2 harnesses on the factory amplifier - one for the signal input and another for the power output to the speakers).

But like Big Mac said, you will need to run power all the way from the battery to the trunk for your amp. There are plenty of good chassis grounds in the trunk and like I said before, the remote turn-on is back in the trunk as well.

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

I could have sworn the JBL's had it, but in looking, they don't any longer .

The JL Audio slash mono amps do, but the input doesn't turn on if only a low pass signal is present. This makes absolutely no sense to me, since the whole purpose is to add a sub with these amps (and they say so in the manual!).

So, go with a LOC and use Dyn's suggestion on grabbing a remote turn on from the trunk amp that's there.

Big Mack

Vortes

well, since current sensing sounds impossible now, lets rule that out, im not sure what you mean about the remote turn on, im very novice to car audio, just learning everything now, im looking to buy some subs,2x ohm infinity, 12s (400Rms/1200max each)
wiring kit (ground,fuse,power,remote wire) for 170, does that sounds like a good deal? comes in a ported box, and will i be able to find an amp that will work with the wiring kit and subs?

Vortes

i need to know what wiring i will need to install it in the trunk (lengths, type) i want to use the stock equalizer ***** and keep that headunit, all i have is the subs and amp, so what else will i need to do? and can i do this myself or would it be too complicated for a first install and should i have it done professionally?

Blavatsky

You'll be wiring that thru the firewall to the battery in order to power it, if you're cool with that you might be alright. You can use the stock HU and just do the amp sub and speakers like you said. I just paid someone because i'm not a wiring guy myself.

That deal for 170 you mentioned sounds pretty good, expect to pay around that for an amp too. Just make sure you match the watt/ohm ratings closely, you don't want to underpower a sub. If you get all the labor done for you at a shop for regular prices, shouldn't be too much since you'll have the kit already...maybe 150 or less (@65$ an hour). good luck, let us know how it sounds!

mkorsu

Remember a couple of other points as well. I'm not 100% percent sure on the Pioneer system, but it may be similar to the Nak unit in that the output signal is already low level (RCA level), so you may not need a LOC but you will need to splice RCA's into your output lines.

Also, Do you know if the Pioneer has a dedicated sub channel from the HU. It may not like the Nak unit. It uses the regular channels to create a sub output.

You may want to take the output from the sub amp, run it through a LOC to drop it back down to RCA level. Then run that to the new amp.