enginyr

I'm going to install a JL Audio 12" IB4 to the rear deck along with a JL Audio Amp 250/1 and I noticed the amp does not allow Hi level inputs. Also If anyone could give me ANY pointers on the install....ANY Pointers would help.

Percy

enginyr,

http://crutchfield.com/S-UdVu1gl0i0y...p?i=101PL2&s=0

Audiolink Powerlink II...probably THE best on the market.
aka...the Big Huge Flashing Pointer (TM)

Percy

Mean Gene

Eng - Yep, I was gonna post up this : http://www.linkmeup.com Then click on the PL2 link.
This should give ya more details.

P - Let's keep those age comments to a minimium, OK!!

Percy

Gene,

I'll have to update my bookmarks! Had to search the old fashioned way...google!

As for the age...you're only 22. Better? Now go over to the local college and hit on the cuties.

Percy

enginyr

If you're planning to connect an amp that doesn't have speaker-level inputs to a car stereo that doesn't have preamp outputs, you'll need a line output converter. The PowerLink II hooks to the speaker leads of your stereo and provides RCA preamp-level outputs, so you can run a patch cord (not included) to your stereo amp.

If you're installing a 4-channel amp, you'll need two converters and two patch cords. PowerLink II has adjustable gain, and is compatible with receivers rated up to 30 watts RMS per channel.


Isn't the sub getting way more than 30 watts?

Lvangundy

I'm having the same problem in my LS..
I have a cheap Pioneer amp for my subs that has high level inputs, but even with a generic hi/lo (line output) convertor, there's still too much power and differing impedances which make the amp sound like crap.

In order to get any decent sound out of it I have to turn the gain way down, below the 'normal' level, and if I turn it up, the speakers get MAD distortion.

I'm thinking of running the input from the regular door speakers instead of the sub channel, becuase less power goes to the door speakers ( i assume.)

Anyone know how much power goes to the sub channel?

Mean Gene

Guyz - In this case, why not just bypass the factory amp entirely? The head unit has speaker wires which lead down to the external amp ( in the passenger side kickpanel area ) so just wire the PL2 inputs there & use RCA's to omit the factory amp completely. IME, if U try to use a LLC downstream of a factory amp all U end up doing is amplifying the distortion of the factory amp ( those are hardly audiophile quality & tend to clip/distort easily ). Eng - I think that's what they're talking about when they refer to "up to 30 wrms/channel". Some of the newer decks are considered "High Power" because they have an internal amplifier of 25-30 wrms/channel. For this application U'd need to do what Ivan's doing - turning the PL2 gains down to eliminate the distortion before U amplify it again. Fortunately, most "High Power" decks also come with RCA outputs. Seems contradictory, doesn't it?
Ivan - Not sure about the LS series but U might try & PM Retrodrive about it. He's working on a killer install for his LS. FWIW - I think we all decided that the GS sub system gets roughly 50 watts ( Pioneer system ) or 100 watts ( Nak system ). Not sure about the ML setup.

enginyr

Is an Infinite baffle speaker take more or less power to run compaired to a regular speaker. The JL 12 IB4 is rate at 125 watts rms @ 8 ohm which means I would need a 250 watt amp rms. Am I correct some one help???

BabaBooey

Infinite baffle subs take less power than ones that are in an enclosure due to the fact that they reach full excursion quickly. Just like the larger you make a sealed enclosure, the less power you need to make a sub reach Xmax. An IB setup works as just being a huge box.

BTW, since you'll have the factory amp just sitting around doing nothing, you can use it as a line driver by hooking the LOC to the outputs of the factory amp and turning the gains down pretty low. Sounds ghetto, but I've asked Richard Clark about doing it and he says that it would work. Worth trying at least to see if you like it...

enginyr

LOC ? huh?

BabaBooey

LOC= line output converter. Same as an LLC as a lot of people on this forum call it.

enginyr

What would you do in my situation.....I'm looking to spend no more than $400 and nothing custom.

BabaBooey

Phoenix Gold XS2500:
http://www.carmedia1.com/phoenixgoldxsamplifiers.html
You'd have to bandpass the IB4 by buying a seperate HPF with a 12 db/octave rolloff set around 30hz(maybe you could go lower, I dunno about the IB4's powerhandling).

Or how about $25 over $400? The 150X already has a subsonic filter so an HPF isn't necessary. http://www.mmxpress.com/usamps.htm

You may end up not even needing a subsonic filter so long as you don't play test tones or the 1812 Overture or anything like that. If you'd have gotten the IDMAX like I recommended, you definitely wouldn't have a problem with the lower frequencies and could have saved some money trying to power it properly, but to each his own.

enginyr

Jl audio 12 IB4 is rated at 125 watts rms 300 max @8 ohms
The JL 250/1 is rated at 250 watts mono @ 4 ohm rms

$60 for the speaker and $240 for the amp= $300 plus 10" to 12" dia piece of wood (only custom thing)

BabaBooey

Do you think that you're going to change your subwoofer setup in the future? It's seems kind of stupid since you wouldn't be using it anywhere near its potential, but a JBL 1200.1 ($270) would be very effective. If it follows basic physics laws (which it doesn't between 1 and 2 ohms), it should put out 300 watts @ 8 ohms, would allow you 1200 watts @ 1 and 2 ohms, and 600 watts @4 ohms. If you decide to get that amp, go on eBay, look up the model number (bp1200.1 to be exact), and find the seller scala1. He has the cheapest prices on the net and you get a full warranty with all products.