landarc

Hi. Here is my situation that has been plaguing me for 4 years:

I purchased a used 98 GS400 with a system in it already. I have little to no car audio knowledge. I have had a professional car audio shop look at it just visually and they say it was professionally installed. These are the main components:

• RED TOP battery with a fuse. (see pic)
• I have also grounded it to the body of the car. (see pic)
• There are two amps totally 800W – one 500W and 300W. The amps are both by Precision Power.

When the system is on, the green power light on the 300W is fully bright. The 500W one is dim and that one powers the sub. The Sub is a Alpine Type R 10”. (see pics)

I changed the alternator about 3 years back on the recommendation by the professional audio guy. The alternator is 100AMP, I think. Since I changed the alternator, I am still having the same problem. I think it was pointless and a waste of money.

Now when I play my system during the day, the audio will eventually cut out when:

• The electric fans turn on for the radiator
• When there is stop-and-go traffic and the brake booster recharges (this is normal)

The audio comes back on when:

• Once the fans turn off
• Once I get moving

When I play my system at night, the audio will eventually cut out when:

• The HID headlights turn on
• The HID headlights and fog lamps turn on
• The seat warmers are turn on in the winter

The audio comes back on when:

• The HID headlights are turned off
• The HID headlights and fog lamps turned off
• The seat warmers are turned off in the winter

I am assuming that the car loads are too great. The car will sucks all the juice it needs to remain operating at the expense of the audio. CD keeps playing until the car takes what it needs and then the audio is back on. My headlights are not dimming either.


I ran a multi-meter and the battery is 11.85v with car off. Each amp receives 11.85v when car is off. So power to the amps are fine. I checked the fuses are they are okay also.


What should I do?

• Should I get a 1 farad capacitor?

• Is there something I am missing?

Please help! Thanks.

Spyder78

iTrader: (7)

Few things that you are missing. Honestly the stock gs alternator is 90 Amps why upgrade for a measly 10 amps? Sounds like somebody might have been bs'ing you. First thing that I would do is go to an autoparts store, Autozone in US offers free battery and alternator testing, I have no idea if there is anything similar offered in Canada but you need to run tests to check the battery and alternator.

I currently have 2 amps one pushing 900 watts Rms to 2 12" Alpine Type Rs and a 600 Watt 4 channel to my interiors and I my light dim only when I am at a stop and the system is cranked all the way up.

At rest your battery should be reading 12.6 volts not 11.85. Your battery might be on its way out.

Getting a capacitor will not help as it seems like your alternator doesnt have enough juice to charge your battery. Like I said get your alternator checked, if it is deemed good next step is to see if the battery is the culprit which to me sounds likely, and get it replaced.

Good luck

landarc

Thank you very much! Finally somebody is making sense. I will get the alternator checked and the battery. I had a gut feeling that it was the battery. Should always go with the gut feeling. Thanks for your help. Have a question, what kind of battery are you using? Anything you recommend? Take care.

Spyder78

iTrader: (7)

I am currently using the optima yellow top but for your setup it should matter.

landarc

Well I bought a new yellow top battery and the car is alive again! The audio does not cut out anymore. My steering wheel telescopes now. Wow! Its like a new car. Thank you for your help!

Spyder78

iTrader: (7)

No problem, enjoy ur new car LOL!!!

landarc

Well, my yellow top died after one year! WTF! So I put my redtop back in and am still having the same problem. I think I have to upgrade my alternator. What amperage should I go to or need or should buy? Please help. Thanks.

I found these links on ebay:

130AMPS:
http://cgi.ebay.ca/LEXUS-ALTERNATOR-...item27b246122d

180AMPS:
http://cgi.ebay.ca/HIGH-OUTPUT-180-A...item3ef1d5a8fd

Any recommendations on what I may need?

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

If you managed to kill a yellow top in a year, there is a serious problem. First off, it should still have a warranty. Second, you need to check all the wiring to the battery and alternator. The size of the cable going back to your amps should be same size as that going from the battery to the frame of the car. If it isn't, you're stifling the charging system and even a 3Kw alternator won't overcome that. Next check the wire from the alternator to the battery. It should be secure, and likely needs an upgrade to the same size wire as the other 2. It also can't hurt to upgrade the negative side from simply grounding on the bracket to grounding to the frame of the car. This assures you a quality ground throughout the system.

Once you've done those, let's see if your problem still happens. These should be the most cost effective solutions, and are easily done by anyone who can turn a wrench and cut/crimp a wire.

Big Mack

veleno

iTrader: (3)

Your yellow top should still have some sort of warranty, so look into that. Like mentioned above, you should also look into the main power wire running to the distribution block as well as the ground wire for both amps. Remember that the ground should not be longer than 18" from the amp (looks like you have it running all the way up to the engine bay). Having different size power wiring should be okay (I've seen a lot of guys running 4ga. from the battery to the distribution block, then 8ga. out into the amps with no issues).

If you still have issues I'd take it to another professional stereo shop (different from the first one you went to) and let them look at it. Your OEM alternator should have been enough to handle your current setup so the higher output one that you have now should've work fine but it might be on its way out.

Let us know what you find out.

landarc

Hi Big Mack,

I took my yellow top back to where to I purchased it and they are testing it. I still have to call them back on it. It looks like I need to upgrade the wire from the alternator to the positive terminal. I think it is still the stock wire. Do you know off hand how long the wire will have to be? I will let you know how it turns out. Thanks for your help.

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

It shouldn't take that long to test it out. Perhaps an hour to run it through an attempt at a recharge, but I'm concerned that the car wasn't keeping it charged. Upgrading the wire really shouldn't be necessary for the positive side, but it certainly can't hurt. Not sure on the length. I would just buy 2 gauge wire, which shouldn't be any more than about $10-15 at the most. Do yourself a favor and get it at a shop that sells connectors for it and buy them there. Have them crimp the ends on for you after you measure the length of wire needed. Use the original as a template.

Are the grounds upgraded? You didn't really respond with more info on that, and you have to keep in mind that electricity in a vehicle flows from negative to positive. Having sufficient grounds is important.

Big Mack

landarc

Hi Big Mack,

The ground that I upgraded before was from the negative terminal to the the frame of the car. That is a 2 gauge wire. I think the wires from the amps to the front of the car are the same. I did this upgrade under the recommendation of a car audio place when I was in Winnipeg. After this upgrade, the audio still cut out.

The connection from the alternator to the positive terminal was done by the previous car owner. I think it is stock. If it does not need upgrading, then I will leave it.

Do I upgrade the other ground wire attached to the frame of the car? It is located between the wipers.

Are there any other grounds I need to address? If so, which ones? I also checked the fuse and its okay as well.

If there are no other grounds to change, should I take the car the car in to an audio place and get it checked out as "veleno" recommends?

Thanks.

Take care.

veleno

iTrader: (3)

Did you check what kind of amperage you're seeing when the stereo cuts out? I'd be curious to know what you're getting.

There really seems to be an issue with the current when you have multiple loads drawing power (stereo + heater + fans + etc) and those things shouldn't be an issue with your current audio setup.

You really need to take it in and find out what's causing the draw and lack of power when things are running. These are not common symptoms with a setup like yours.

toy4life86

iTrader: (4)

what is voltage you are getting to the amps when the car is on?
when the lights are on?
I would recommend upgrading that fuse.
My friends car was doing something similar with a 1000/1 jl amp
and I put in my rockford fosgate ANL fuse holder and fuse and it worked like a charm
I would try changing the fuse to a ANL type

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

Greetings. Sorry it took a bit to get back to this thread.

That connection is in no way stock. That terminal is not factory, and looks to be a source of the problem based on your picture. Seen here:



That wire from the alternator is making a very poor connection with the battery. It has an extremely limited surface area from what I can see, and that's not good. Time to get a real terminal, fit it properly, and see what happens. The grounds look good, and no, you do not need to upgrade anything near the windshield wipers.

At this point, you've not done the proper troubleshooting, so no, taking it to them will simply cause more time. What's the update on your battery? You may very well take it in if we cannot source the problem, but you need to correct the positive terminal's connections first and see if that fixes it.

Oh, and you're welcome. I'm sure veleno is trying to help.

Toy4life, upgrading the fuse will not solve his problem and is dangerous advice. You do not simply put in a larger fuse without taking into account what the wires can safely handle. Additionally, if it's not blowing a fuse, why would a larger one help the situation?

Lastly, the fuse type he has is sufficient. Upgrading to an ANL fuse is quite expensive, and certainly not necessary to correct the problem. In other words - it's not the fuses or the type.

PS - landarc, time to clean the car, mang. You have more dust than the cryptkeeper under that hood. It's definitely not the problem, but wow, it's certainly not helping. Plus, when everything is clean you may find additional concerns. Get to wiping!

Big Mack